Converting front D44 to lock out hubs

[MatthewH]

After doing some research, i'm still confused abut the parts needed to convert the D44 to lock out hubs. Do i need to replace everything from the knuckle out using GM or Ford D44 parts, or can i just replace the spindle out, keeping the dodge knuckle, but replacing everything else.

Also, if GM or Ford parts are used, do i have to use there calipers, or can i keep the dodge calipers?

Thanks for the info in advance
MatthewH

 

[Elwenil]

You need to replace everything from the knuckle out, including the knuckle. Knuckle, spindle, hub, rotor, caliper, caliper bracket, stub shaft, etc. I would avoid Ford stuff as they use weaker knuckles and 5 bolt spindles. GM stuff is usable and common or you could keep it Dodge and just use common part time 8 lug Dodge parts from '80-'93. If you swap to another brand, you are going to have to use that brand's calipers and caliper bracket due to the difference in the knuckle and rotor spacing.

 

[MatthewH]

All the '80-93 dodge axles i have found at my local pick and pull have been the cad front axles with the silver caps instead of lock outs. Can those hubs be easily converted to lock outs?

 

[nhdiesel]

If they have the large silver caps that pop off, yes, they are easy to swap. just remove the silver cap, push inward on the splined drive ring, and remove the large circlip, and the small one around the end of the axle shaft. The splined drive ring will pop out. If the grease is old and dry you might have to spray it to get it to pop out. Then just install the manual locking hubs.

Those splined rings are handy, keep one (or both) in the glove box or tool kit. If you ever blow a hub, just install the splined drive ring.

Jim

 

[MatthewH]

Awsome, that makes the swap faster and better causeit stays all dodge parts. Looks like I'll be junkyarding this holiday weekend. Thanks for the info

 

[nhdiesel]

I have a Grand Wagoneer axle here, which uses the exact same design, so I grabbed a few pics so you know what to look for. Ignore the wheel bolt pattern, but other than that, its a Dana 44 with the hub deletes.





I would have grabbed more pics but it was raining.

Jim

 

[Elwenil]

Agreed, CAD axles are great to swipe parts from as few people want them for anything else. The manual hub fit exactly as NHdiesel explained it. Pop off the cap, take out the splined puck and pick up a set of Warn Premiums (Warn part number 20990) and you are set.

Keep in mind if you haven't already done a part time conversion to the NP203 transfer case that you will have to put it in the Hi-Loc position in order to drive. This will eventually wear out the differential lock pins so you should plan on either converting it to part time 4WD with one of the many kits available or swap your 727 and transfer case to a part time unit from a '80-'93 model truck.

 

[MatthewH]

I was going to do the knuckle swap when i did the drivetrain swap, so i don't need to worry about converting the np203 as i am already going to a part time t-case.

 

[Elwenil]

Sounds like a solid plan.

 

[Psychowolff]

Please forgive me but I don't understand why you would put in locking hubs and do the MileHigh T-Case mod? (or other) why not just do the T-Case mod? wouldn't that make it part time 4WD?

 

[MatthewH]

Technically, yes, swapping tcases would result in part time 4wd. But, because of the design of the axle hubs used in the M880 series trucks, you would still have the front axle turning. The locking hubs swap was intended to utilize the axle I had, and making it work with a drive train swap I had in mind at the time.

 

[Psychowolff]

Thanks Mathew!

So doing the mile high mod to the T-case will make it part time 4wd, but doing the hub replacement mod will further reduce the drag (and MPG loss) of having the whole front Driveshaft turning? Plus it replaces the bearings that seem to be a weak spot on these axels?

I think I understand it now, well, much better than I did. We'll see how much once I dig into it.

 

[MatthewH]

I've never done the part time conversion kit, so I can't say one way or the other how it will perform.
In theory, yes, by unlocking the front axle and converting to part time, you will reduce driveline drag, because now your only turning the rear axle, and driveshaft.
However, having owned many Dodges from that era, I wouldn't hold my breath on a bump in mpg's
Just my honest opinion

 

[Psychowolff]

Thats what I have been hearing on here and IRL. I think I'm going to take the advice of others that have been there and done it. Leave it stock for now, grease it up well and when something goes South, then worry about it. Thanks, I appreciate the input!

 

[goodbrewing]

I put the mile marker kit in and converted the axle on my M886. I did it because I had the cv type joint go on the front driveshaft at around 70 1 day. It locked up the driveshaft and snapped a front axle shaft. I tend to put allot of highway miles on mine so I didn't want it to happen again. I noticed very little improvement in the fuel mileage but it went down the road a little smoother and eliminated the always spinning front end. Less u-joint wear and better front bearings. The kit was easy enough to install and always worked fine. You just need to make sure and put it in 4 wheel every now and then to splash oil on a few of the parts that don't get it in 2 wheel drive. I went with a donor axle from a newer Dodge for the parts.