Cooling system issue

[Cybul]

Hi.
Long story short...
During normal, quiet street driving at around 40mph the temperature started to settle around 210-215F and next to 220-225F. After which the fan would come on, the temperature would drop to 210-215, then rise again after a while, and so on.
The coolant level was ok, so I started looking further. It turned out that the thermostat was broken in two pieces. In the process of replacing the thermostat with a new one, quite a lot of coolant was lost.



I added about 1.3gal (green fluid) with the spillproof funnel kit.

I started up the engine, at a standstill it warms up to about 210F and maintains this temperature all the time. It seems to me that this is too high a temperature when the truck is not moving and only the engine is running.
Excess fluid was removed through a hose at the cap when the engine was on and around 210F.

Is it possible that the cooling system is being bleeding?
When I squeeze the hose (the one that connects the thermostat to the radiator) a lot of air bubbles appear in the fluid reservoir, but when I start the engine (without squeezing) I don't see any bubbles.
If so, how do I bleed it?

Is it possible that the water pump is not working and how to verify that the pump is working without disassembly etc.?

 

[Bulldogger]

Standard HMMWV coolant temperature is 220-225F. You seem to be operating fine. HMMWVs run hot by design to help burn the variety of diesel and aviation fuel they might be fed during operations. If you want to change the fan temp sensor switch and thermostat to a more "civilian" level, for example some convert to 195F, those parts are available. However, if you're running at 215 with highs of 220, your cooling system is operating as designed.
Bulldogger

 

[Cybul]

Thanks for your answer @Bulldogger, but what about bleeding the cooling system. How to do it? Even if it has to be at these temperatures, it is clear that it is better if it is without air inside.

 

[DREDnot]

It will bleed itself with a few hot/cold cycles. Before starting it cold every time, check the coolant overflow bottle and add coolant to the cold full line. It may stay full or take a few times but it should eventually always be at cold full at startup.

Make sure you have a new genuine OEM(made in mexico) 16lb coolant cap on the coolant reservoir

 

[Cybul]

It will bleed itself with a few hot/cold cycles. Before starting it cold every time, check the coolant overflow bottle and add coolant to the cold full line. It may stay full or take a few times but it should eventually always be at cold full at startup.

Make sure you have a new genuine OEM(made in mexico) 16lb coolant cap on the coolant reservoir

Thanks.

Any brand of the cap?

 

[DREDnot]

Im currently running this 15lb that came in plain cardboard military packaging.
I was recommended to upgrade to the 16lb and im currently looking for the same NOS Mil. in 16lb

 

[Milcommoguy]

Not sure if this is BIG upgrade.
With every pound per square inch (PSI) placed on the cooling system, the coolant's boiling point raises approximately 3°F.

It's getting HOT in here... so take off all your _______ radiator caps? CAMO