CUCV Fording Kit?

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A dead alternator kept me from bringing my M1010 to Rausch Creek as planned. Watching the videos, it seems clear that some of the water crossings would have far exceeded the CUCV's 20" fording capability "without kit". That got me curious about the CUCV fording kit. I find no mention of it in the TMs, but it is listed on olive-drab.com.

Does a CUCV fording kit exist? If so, I'd appreciate a pointer to details. Searching the web and SS, I only find info on fording kits for M35 and HUMMWVs.

Thanks!

 

[MWMULES]

Nope, TM says 18" max if I remember correctly
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?22334-CUCV-Water-Fording-info-needed

 

[Warthog]

All the electrical connections are not sealed. No way to easily have a fording kit.

 

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The -10 tm says 16" is OK, and don't go over 20". Fording 20" or more requires changing oil in everything and a full chassis lube. I read the -20 and -34 TMs looking for details on "post fording" maintenance, but found nothing further. Is there another TM that addresses these things?

The images below are from a CUCV that evidently stalled while fording deep water at Rausch Creek this weekend.


He later reported that his engine "blew" on the way home.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...2015-Rausch-Creek-Steel-Soldiers-Rally/page18

Those images are from 17:07 and 17:25 of this video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppkn-nRiV-8.

In the videos another CUCV had a deuce tow him through the deep water with his engine off. I'm sure that he ingested less water that way, but I'd be worried that I'd ingested enough water to cause problems later.

I understand that a CUCV is far less capable than a deuce, especially a deuce rigged for fording. I can own a CUCV and stay married. That wouldn't be possible if I owned a deuce. I want to make my truck as capable as possible, and I want to learn to drive it off road within those capabilities, but I don't have any delusions that it will be as capable as a deuce.

I ordered a pair of chest waders for the M1010, so I can go find out how deep the water is before I drive into it. I figure I'll mark lines at 16 and 20" on the waders, and use that to figure out when to proceed and when to turn back.

I normally keep a gallon of engine oil in the truck for road trips. For off-road trips, I'll be adding another gallon and a drain pan and filter, so I can change the oil if I mess up and end up in water that's too deep. I'll also need to add the materials for re-packing hubs, chassis lube, and changing the oil in the transmission, transfer case, and axles. Post-fording maintenance is starting to seem like quite a project. I guess that will motivate me to use the hip waders before fording, and to stay out of deep water.

 

[Richard86]

There is no fording kit for the CUCV. However it is very easy to protect our Trucks from water damage.
(I talk about my experience with my m1008 that has seen a lot of deep water in the past, there might be
some differences on the 1009 and other CUCVs)

There are a few problem areas you have to address.
The first and in my opinion most important is the engine air intake. This is the #1 reason for a CUCV not to make it home.
The Problem is that the fan and the belts trow around very large amounts of water in the engine bay. As the intake of the
CUCV is of a very open design it is very likely that your engine sucks in some water and hydrolocks though the water was not
exceedingly deep.

One and option is to add a Snorkel to your truck. (best option though it is very hard to come up with a
optically sound solution for the CUCV in my opinion)

If you do not want to hack up your right fender it really helps if you just extend the intake into the right
fender so it is safe from the water that gets thrown around in the engine bay.

That way you will be able to cross at least three feet of water on an otherwise stock CUCV without the
risk of short term damage to your truck.

Then there is the long term damage that you want to address.

The front axle breather is high enough in my opinion but could be on a better location. I rerouted it to the firewall.
The rear axle breather hast do be extended. I routed it into the rear quarter of the truck bed above the right taillight.

Then there is the transmission breather. It must be extended. Just a little water in the Transmission oil and it will
refuse to work properly. (don't ask me how I know)
But be careful, the small plastic breather tube is brittle as **** and will break off very fast. I replaced it with a steel
Tube and extended it with standard rubber hose to the firewall.

And last but not least. The transfer case. The breather is just a small metal tube with a small cap sticking out of it.
Just take off the cap and extend the tube with some rubber hose.

Tese mods can be done for something like 20 Bucks and you will have no problems
with water holes like the one in the Video above or even deeper.

You will have to arm yourself with a grease gun when at home and regrease all U-joints and steering links afterwards and do
not forget to open up the front hubs, axles and transfer case to check for water ingress.


Oh and one last note. Everything else has to be in sound condition. Remember if there is some oil dripping out of your
truck there will be water coming in.



Richard