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Dragging brake on an M925A2

Steelreaper80

Active member
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Location
Indianapolis IN
Quick question,

I have a dragging brake on the passenger side, center tire. I am 65 miles from my shop. Can I cage that brake only and limp it back? I have the brake bladder at the shop, I just want to know if it is feasible to cage that brake only until I get back to replace it. Thank you
 

Crf450x

Well-known member
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347
63
Location
Fall Branch, TN
Quick question,

I have a dragging brake on the passenger side, center tire. I am 65 miles from my shop. Can I cage that brake only and limp it back? I have the brake bladder at the shop, I just want to know if it is feasible to cage that brake only until I get back to replace it. Thank you
Yes it won’t hurt a thing. If the diaphragm is leaking that bad, just be mindful of your air pressure.
 

Steelreaper80

Active member
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28
Location
Indianapolis IN
So......apparently it isn't the brake. I had the wheel studs snap off on that wheel last week and I had to chain up the axle and limp it 60 miles back. When I swapped to the spare and replaced the studs I pulled the axle and re-packed the bearings in Red N Tacky grease. Now the drum is HOT. I caged the brake on that wheel so there is no way it should be hot from braking. The drum on that wheel is way hotter than the others. Is it new inner bearing time? The outside of the hub is no hotter than the others.
 

Mullaney

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So......apparently it isn't the brake. I had the wheel studs snap off on that wheel last week and I had to chain up the axle and limp it 60 miles back. When I swapped to the spare and replaced the studs I pulled the axle and re-packed the bearings in Red N Tacky grease. Now the drum is HOT. I caged the brake on that wheel so there is no way it should be hot from braking. The drum on that wheel is way hotter than the others. Is it new inner bearing time? The outside of the hub is no hotter than the others.
Just to get you started, what say you jack up that wheel. Block it up with a jack stand or something substantial - then pull the axle on the troublesome wheel. The gear oil should run to the other side if the fill level is right so minimal mess... Then spin the wheel and listen for any sort of sound other than nothing. You might also grab the left and right sides of the wheel and try to wiggle it left to right. Any play should be a concern.

Any motion or any "growling" sound means it may be bearing time.
 

Steelreaper80

Active member
229
96
28
Location
Indianapolis IN
Just to get you started, what say you jack up that wheel. Block it up with a jack stand or something substantial - then pull the axle on the troublesome wheel. The gear oil should run to the other side if the fill level is right so minimal mess... Then spin the wheel and listen for any sort of sound other than nothing. You might also grab the left and right sides of the wheel and try to wiggle it left to right. Any play should be a concern.

Any motion or any "growling" sound means it may be bearing time.
I checked the bearings and they are smooth as silk. I changed the spring brake rubber bladder. The shoes were stuck to the drum. I had to whack it a few times before I could get the drum off. I cleaned and lubed the pistons. Hopefully that will help.
 

Lukes_deuce

Active member
440
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Location
Long Island, NY
I checked the bearings and they are smooth as silk. I changed the spring brake rubber bladder. The shoes were stuck to the drum. I had to whack it a few times before I could get the drum off. I cleaned and lubed the pistons. Hopefully that will help.
Sounds like the wedge was sticking. I would take the brake can off and clean then grease up the wedge assembly. Had the same issue with brakes sticking. Its a common issue with wedge brakes.
 

RobertoGatos

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Location
Gilroy, CA
Shouldn't drive with a brake caged. You'll break stuff. When you hit the brakes, the caging bolt will rip out of the retaining catch in the brake pot and ruin it. If you do cage a brake and drive, you must prevent service air from entering the brake pot.
 

Steelreaper80

Active member
229
96
28
Location
Indianapolis IN
Shouldn't drive with a brake caged. You'll break stuff. When you hit the brakes, the caging bolt will rip out of the retaining catch in the brake pot and ruin it. If you do cage a brake and drive, you must prevent service air from entering the brake pot.
Good to know. I think I figured out what my problem was on that wheel. My wedge brakes were out of adjustment. Watched Wes's video on it and adjusted mine. Even with the brakes caged the shoes were touching the drum. I literally had to beat off the drum with a hammer. I will road-test it tomorrow and see if that was the problem but I think it was just an adjustment. After adjusting them back in and greasing the adjuster the drum slid back on smooth as silk.
 

Lukes_deuce

Active member
440
123
43
Location
Long Island, NY
Good to know. I think I figured out what my problem was on that wheel. My wedge brakes were out of adjustment. Watched Wes's video on it and adjusted mine. Even with the brakes caged the shoes were touching the drum. I literally had to beat off the drum with a hammer. I will road-test it tomorrow and see if that was the problem but I think it was just an adjustment. After adjusting them back in and greasing the adjuster the drum slid back on smooth as silk.
9 out of 10 times the wedge sticks in the "out" position, keeping your pads spread and against the drum. Caging the brake chamber is only to release the parking spring brake, since that is on with the force of the spring in the chamber and air pressure from your truck pushes on the diaphragm & spring to the off position, releasing the parking brake. The service brakes are not applied unless you hit the brake pedal. Hence, theres no caging the front brakes.

If the rear brakes are stuck on, it most likely the wedge is gummed up. You should adjust the brakes as well but I bet you smacking the drum caused the wedge to loosen up. You should see how the brake spider works with the drum off. Make sure the pads return quickly.
 
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