Drive Shaft removal for towing

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NDT

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Great job! What did you do to prep the towed vehicle for the ride? It probably goes without saying due to your experience but I have to ask for the learning involved, so here goes...did you drop both drive shafts and what if any special tools did you use to do it? Thanks
On the rear axle, I pulled the axle shafts. You do this by removing the giant pipe plug with a pipe wrench (or appropriate socket if you have it), and inserting a 3/8 bolt into the end of the shaft and pull. Make sure you have a oil catch pan, especially if you are on a military base! Front, I pulled the caps on the forward most ujoint: removed the fasteners, gave the yoke a tap with the bfh, and they popped right out. I then double strapped the diriveshaft to the transmission crossmember and replaced the caps using wire to hold them. I checked the hub lube level in front by removing the giant pipe plug. That was it.
 

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coachgeo

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.... I pulled the axle shafts. ....
Great post to put up here as a sticky. This was in a Drive Shaft / towing thread but now that it is stand alone.... title does not work. Consider having a moderator change the title if you can't. Not sure about this board but often it takes a moderator or admin to change Thread Titles.

Again, great material for a sticky
 

manvstaco

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are they easy to pop back in? I'm considering having my LMTV towed a few miles to get it off base then driving it home because they wont let you drive it off the lot
 

mkcoen

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I can verify the ease of removal since I had to do this over the weekend (same vehicle and same rear axle as in NDTs picture). Make sure you have the 3/8" coarse thread bolt in your tool kit. I did not (although I do now and it's painted orange) and spent 1/2 hour searching for something off the truck to use. Fortunately one of the bolts on the battery box was close enough that I was able to grab the 1st thread on the axle and they slide out so easy that's all I needed.
 

mkcoen

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dumb question here, but why pull the axleshafts? Seems a messy and unnecessary job when the drivelines could just be popped off at the axles and tied up. clean and fast.
Have you pulled one of the drive shafts on these? Much easier to pull the axle shafts and no fear of your tied up drive line jostling loose and bouncing down the highway.
 

NDT

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On FMTVs, it can be quite difficult to remove the U-joint caps due to them being rusted in place. You are supposed to use a $350 puller that most of us don't have. The rear driveline on LMTVs is hypersensitive to balance, so it's best not to pry on the yokes or use a sledgehammer to beat the caps out while lying on your back in an anthill in the dirt with crap falling in your eyes.
 

sjohn116

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Can you provide a link or specific name for The u-joint puller required to pull the driveshaft without damaging anything? I need to pull my driveshaft due to out-of-spec play at the yoke.
 

NDT

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no one says anything about flat towing with shafts in place but I was told that short distance like 35 miles would be fine.
Yes at very low speed. The TM discusses this, better check before smoking a $4000 transmission.
 

Floridianson

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I can verify the ease of removal since I had to do this over the weekend (same vehicle and same rear axle as in NDTs picture). Make sure you have the 3/8" coarse thread bolt in your tool kit. I did not (although I do now and it's painted orange) and spent 1/2 hour searching for something off the truck to use. Fortunately one of the bolts on the battery box was close enough that I was able to grab the 1st thread on the axle and they slide out so easy that's all I needed.
I just use one of the bolts that hold on the hub / gear cap. If the bolt was a snake it would have bit you when you removed the center cap to get to the axle. It is the correct threads and long enough then just replace it when done.
 
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