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Fixing M35A3 Rim Leaks - For Good! (Brainstorming Session)

HDN

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I'm pretty sure the little valve stem grommets on my M35A3's rims are all shot. I've been planning on disassembling the wheels to clean the rims and replace the O-rings and the little grommets, but I have no doubt at some point that the grommet will fail again and I will have to take the rims apart - again!

Has anyone figured out a way to do away with the grommet all together? I was thinking about welding a fitting right to the rim where the valve stem is supposed to go. I've also considered tubes, but I'm not sure how I would go about installing them in the rim, like if I'd have to drill another hole for the tube valve stem. Thoughts?
 

simp5782

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I'm pretty sure the little valve stem grommets on my M35A3's rims are all shot. I've been planning on disassembling the wheels to clean the rims and replace the O-rings and the little grommets, but I have no doubt at some point that the grommet will fail again and I will have to take the rims apart - again!

Has anyone figured out a way to do away with the grommet all together? I was thinking about welding a fitting right to the rim where the valve stem is supposed to go. I've also considered tubes, but I'm not sure how I would go about installing them in the rim, like if I'd have to drill another hole for the tube valve stem. Thoughts?
I've only had 1 grommet ever fail in the 13yrs I've been dealing with military combat wheels.
Grommets are cheap. Use the orange type that are silicone they are less prone to crack in cold Temps with moisture in the tire. This is why you have silicone Wheel o rings as well. Silicone o rings are indicated by an A at the end. Meaning artic. Or420A is an example

A good water catcher on your compressor will help as well


in the even of a dismount Use plenty of lube when reassembling your tires and they will come apart just fine as well

Buy new grommets. O rings. Tire snot. Do em at your convenience when you replace your tires and know that it is done
 

HDN

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I didn't realize that silicone grommets were made for the combat rims. Do you know where I can find them? I've only ever found the rubber ones from surplus vendors.
 

simp5782

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Orange is silciome. Black is rubber. Just cause it says a different vehicle means nothing. Military did one thing right and the valve stem holes thru the wheel are standardized

 

Floridianson

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I guess this is tire snot. Directions call for this tub to be mixed with 4 gallons of water but I never do. I use it straight for O ring, tire bead and grommet. Make sure grommet is centered with it's shoulder in the wheel valve stem hole and tighten good.
I just went to check my tires that I mounted 5 years ago and they were only a couple of pounds off pressure.
When I mount my two piece wheels I use the two regular nuts that came with my wheels not the distorted ones to start with. I put one across from the another and bring the outer half of the wheel down slow and equal till good and tight. Then cross pattern with the distorted nuts run down to torque. I end up when all distorted nuts are torqued and replace the two regular nuts with distorted nuts and torque. I do not know if this really helps but I just want to make sure the outer ring seats the same on the O ring. Make sure the outer ring has no damage to it's O ring crushing area and the wheel groove where the outer half goes into is clean. I run something around / down inside the groove to check for hidden crap and blow it out with air to clean it out.
 

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Sgt Jiggins

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Buy new grommets. O rings. Tire snot. Do em at your convenience when you replace your tires and know that it is done
This... ^^^^^ Just this. It's a bear to get them apart and back together, so while you're in there, once, do it right and you'll not have issues. Clean all the flanges, lube all the things (especially those orings), and you should be a happy camper.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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Like Wes (and perhaps others) said, lube is your friend getting them apart and back together. Enlist a "soldier b" if you have one around to help. And eat your Wheaties.

I just went through dismount/remont of 9. Was it fun? No. Was it worth it: 100%.

Oh, and 3 more thoughts: 1)there's a PDF floating around on the M35 TM page somewhere where a guy talks through it. 2)there's a YouTube video out there that will make dealing with the beadlocks a Lot easier. And 3)you might want to liberally apply petroleum jelly to those orings before installing them.

Good luck!
 

HDN

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Like Wes (and perhaps others) said, lube is your friend getting them apart and back together. Enlist a "soldier b" if you have one around to help. And eat your Wheaties.

I just went through dismount/remont of 9. Was it fun? No. Was it worth it: 100%.

Oh, and 3 more thoughts: 1)there's a PDF floating around on the M35 TM page somewhere where a guy talks through it. 2)there's a YouTube video out there that will make dealing with the beadlocks a Lot easier. And 3)you might want to liberally apply petroleum jelly to those orings before installing them.

Good luck!
Soldier B may not be available, so I plan on enlisting the help of an engine crane. I saw a neat engine crane trick for beadlock removal, so that's another reason why I'll use one :)
 

Sgt Jiggins

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Soldier B may not be available, so I plan on enlisting the help of an engine crane. I saw a neat engine crane trick for beadlock removal, so that's another reason why I'll use one :)
I should tell you I wound up using a lot of tools beyond just hand tools to facilitate this: a backhoe to do as you're describing for beadlock removal. And a 3/4" impact wrench on what I was calling the "ring nuts". That impact makes getting them off very easy but DO NOT be tempted to use that to put them back on. I have a broken ring stud to report as a result of trying that approach. Just use a 3/4" breaker bar and get them reasonably tight. Heman not required, hence the gasket.

As for getting the beadlock IN the tire, i used a farm/hi-lift jack to prise the tire bead apart far enough to slip a ratchet-strapped bead lock in. That one bit of info (which you can also find on youtube) is probably the biggest single bit of advice I can give you past lube,lube,lube. And did I mention lube?
 

tobyS

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They can easily be extended and bent to desired length and shape.
The one in the pic I just changed the tip, to end with a regular sized valve (7.7mm-32TPI ext. thread).
View attachment 803435

G, Please explain your connection. Is it silver solder? Is there an outer tube that fits the inner tube on both ends? Thanks
 

gringeltaube

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G, Please explain your connection. Is it silver solder?
That is one solution, yes.
Is there an outer tube that fits the inner tube on both ends?
Not that I know of...

The internal thread of that large bore valve is the same as the external thread on any regular size tire valve. I cut the valve stem off of an old inner tube, then thread that end in the lathe and screw it in with Teflon tape and sealant. A 8V1-32 die will get that thread done, as well.
20200618_131221.jpg20200618_132436.jpg
 
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