FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

glcaines

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If this is the flat spike piece you speak of, it looks like the plastic hand-guard on yours is broken. Part number 07473(check the Flu manual to verify) is available for a reasonable price online.
View attachment 834530View attachment 834539View attachment 834540
I do really like the chainsaw. It is powerful, light, and quiet. Also the oiling is pretty simple. I am curious how it will do with the larger bar.
I ordered a new hand guard for my hydraulic chainsaw from Southeast Railroad Tool Service in Ellijay, Georgia, the closest Stanley Infrastructure dealer to me. It only cost a little more than $13.00 and Stanley drop-shipped it to me from Oregon at no cost. Fantastic service from both Stanley and SE Railroad Tool Service. Interestingly, the nut and bolt that hold the hand guard onto the chainsaw are non-standard sizes. Neither metric or SAE wrenches would fit and I had to use an adjustable wrench, which was very easy. Stanley must supply special wrenches for service purposes.

I really like that chainsaw! No fuel required, no chain oil required, very light and very powerful. It even works under water.

Hand Guard.JPGStanley CS06 Chainsaw.JPG
 

glcaines

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What is everyone using for the hydraulic systems on the FLU419? I've been using 10W engine oil from McMaster Carr at $80.00 / 5 gallon pail (Cat. 1361K36) which makes it $2.00 per quart. I couldn't find anything cheaper and it seems to work well.
 

glcaines

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I needed to replace the Terminal Board, P/N C5147, Mfg by McGraw Edison, NSN 5940-01-284-6455 on the hydraulic cooler on my FLU419. Mine was severely corroded. I found a bag of 5 for sale on Ebay. Obviously, I only need 1, but I'll keep another for a spare which leaves 3 more. If anyone needs a new one send me a PM and I'll mail you one for free. This doesn't include the plastic cover. I haven't installed mine yet, because I also need to replace one of the fan motors at the same time. One of my motors has openings where water can enter the motor. Strange enough, this is the one that works. The other one is sealed, but it is burned out. The new replacement motor I found on Ebay is the open type. I plan on covering both motors in the future with a small plastic bag held in place with a wire tie to keep water out and I'll remove it when using the hydraulics. It will probably be a few weeks before I get around to installing the motor and terminal board. I plan on packing the plastic cover that covers the terminal board with dielectric grease to try and prevent future corrosion. The cover is not sealed and water can easily enter. The photo below shows the location of the terminal board.
Hydraulic Cooler Fan Terminal Strip Arrow.jpg
 
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The FLU farm

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Earlier today I thought about eliminating the cooling system altogether. The MB-4/94 tunnel washer I have only have a large tank (30-something gallons) and runs a hydraulic motor, plus the other hydraulics which are similar to a backhoe.

My fans really only ran when using the snow blower, and since it goes on a skid steer these days, I probably don't need the cooling system.
Of course, as long as everything still works, and/or is easy to fix, it might as well stay in place.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
Earlier today I thought about eliminating the cooling system altogether. The MB-4/94 tunnel washer I have only have a large tank (30-something gallons) and runs a hydraulic motor, plus the other hydraulics which are similar to a backhoe.

My fans really only ran when using the snow blower, and since it goes on a skid steer these days, I probably don't need the cooling system.
Of course, as long as everything still works, and/or is easy to fix, it might as well stay in place.
My fans were replaced with Spal fans from Ebay. When using the backhoe on a warm day, my fans turn on and are needed to keep the oil from getting too hot. In cooler weather they cycle on and off. I sure would not eliminate them if you plan on using the backhoe for long periods.
 

The FLU farm

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I have a couple of things working in my favor. For one, it rarely gets to 80 degrees here, and when it does I don't want to be outside in the first place.
Secondly, it's not often I use the backhoe for more than an hour at a time these days. But probably most importantly, I run the engine at 1,200 to 1,400 rpm for the most part, so the fluid doesn't get as hot as it would at say 1,800.
 

Sgt Jiggins

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If I'm not mistaken, you want to have a bucket and pins for a 580A through J. I think at K it changes (so M, N, ... won't work). Don't quote me on K, but there is a change in there. If you have a local Case dealer, call them, they'll be able to tell you.
 

The FLU farm

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If I'm not mistaken, you want to have a bucket and pins for a 580A through J. I think at K it changes (so M, N, ... won't work). Don't quote me on K, but there is a change in there. If you have a local Case dealer, call them, they'll be able to tell you.
Yeah, I bought a used 12-incher off an unknown model, and while it fits, it won't fold in as tightly as the original bucket.
 

Mullaney

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According to the Lube Order, OE/HDO-10 which is 10 wt motor oil. I've attached LO 5-2420-224-12. I'm using 10 wt motor oil in mine and that was what was in it when received.
.
Only difference between "10 wt motor oil" and "hydraulic oil" (also 10 wt) is the addition of anti-wear agents.
Helps vane type pumps last a LOT longer.
 

The FLU farm

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My thinking was that it's a hydraulic system, not an engine, so hydraulic fluid is probably better.
Not having the same logistical constraints as the military, I have no reason to try running the same oil/fluid in as many applications as possible.

Been using AW-32, and probably decided on that after looking up what's about the same viscosity as 10W oil. Unlike 10W, it's also easy to come by.
 

MajorMogger

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Texas
Hi, new to the forum and soon to be new to my FLU419 I am purchasing. The FLU419 is supposed to be shipped here in late October. I searched the forum the best I could and couldn't find an answer to my question though - can I put a breaker hammer on this unit in place of the bucket, and if so, how would I determine which type would fit? Would it be effective? All my searches returned results about the live hydraulic jackhammer that stores in the compartment, but I'm referring to one that goes on the tip of the excavator like what you'd use for digging out a basement in solid rock or something.
 
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