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Same here. I messed with the wiring a couple hours today (mostly getting everything exposed per the Peakbagger method). My patience wore thin so called it a day. I may get the girl next door to come over and chant "serenity now" when I delve back into the process tomorrowSounds like you have much more sanity to work with than I do these days.
I can believe that. Although, if I had to split wood, I'd use an axe.I split wood by hand, I think that wiring harness was good for about 2 cords of stress relief
Searched again, this time for "24 volt Spal fan", but the closest that came up was a photo-less 12-incher...at close to $90.Its strange, there were quite a few Spals listed when I bought them. I never actually checked if the other fan was bad I suppose I should, I dissected the other one and it was rusted to bits on the inside.
Yes, the schematic would be beneficial to several of us SEE owners who acquired our MVs from Texarkana. My time is limited diagnosing and repairing gnawed bundles of wiring (I work long hours to support my MV addiction) but I am recording every traced out and repaired wire, so I have a reference for future use.Well I got behind the dash today after pulling the front loader (nice to have a crane as soldier #2), I found a GIANT rat house, took me forever to dig the crap out just to free up the wires, then more cleaning and disassembly then more cleaning, this was a BIG rat, turds 3/4 in. long and 1/4 in.+ thick, found about 15 wires that were diner, more then likely will find more tomorrow, what a miss, NOW does anybody have a wiring schematic for the pos SEE, a complete one not the bit and piece ones shown in the -20, so I can follow the circuits to put this thing back together.
Someone, somewhere, maybe. But not me. I've called about everywhere I could think of, and felt the dead end was reached when I talked to the Stateside Daimler Unimog expert, and he told me he wished he had a dollar for every time someone called him asking for the electrical diagram P/N GOV-041 (NSN 7610-01-475-7996). It'll take determination and luck to find one of those apparently.NOW does anybody have a wiring schematic for the pos SEE, a complete one not the bit and piece ones shown in the -20, so I can follow the circuits to put this thing back together.
These kinds of posts are what make me glad I'm only an armchair observer of all the SEE work going on (or NOT going on as the case may be).Somewhere in the last two years I did see a post that someone had seen one of the laminated wiring harness diagrams sold at government auction so at least one may exist. I just don't think many were issued and expect most of the military bases just threw them away once they got rid of the SEEs. Realistically I really don't know how much easier it would be to repair the harness with it compared to the electrical diagnosis manual. It all comes down to tracing one wire at a time between the main fuse block and the dash.
Funny you should mention that. Well, not really, but not even trying to get rid of the paint on the visible part of bolts before removing them is why I only got one of the axle locating links off yesterday.I would suggest trying paint remover on the threads and then a couple of days of hitting it with Kroil or your favorite penetrant.
i get it though, you know: you just always wish it were easier.So while I was thinking "It'd be a good idea to take a wire wheel on the cordless drill to these bolts before starting to remove them.", once again I was too lazy to crawl out from underneath the SEE to get said tools. And once again the result was predictable failure.
Note to self (and the rest of you): Even though good penetrating oil helps a bit, it is worth it to remove the paint mechanically, or with paint remover, before even trying to remove a fastener.
It'd be nice if the paint flaked off the fasteners, instead of in all the places where I would rather have it stay put.That darn paint they applied is tenacious in spots. They applied so much it gunked up the breather vent on my fuel tank and was a factor in breaking fittings on my air system.
peakbagger; " It all comes down to tracing one wire at a time between the main fuse block and the dash." This would be almost impossible said:Feel free to do it anyway you want. I have described the successful method I used and that's what I did. Perhaps the description of fuse block is confusing, the fuse block is actually part of much larger assembly that has numerous electrical connectors plugged into its backside, they are almost impossible to access without unbolting the fuse panel from the cowl and carefully pulling the fuse panel and harness out towards the wheel well. I rarely if ever actually touched the fuse panel, everyone of the wires going into those plugs on the back are numbered. That's what I mean by tracing the wires one by one. If I find a number 23 on a dash board component and is gnawed off I then go searching for #23 generally either on one of these plugs or on occasion the four relays on the wheelwell. Then I hook my multimeter on #23 at the plug and figure out what gnawed wire makes the multimeter beep. I make sure to check that there are zero ohms and then I splice in new wire between the two points. I admit its not fast and easy and if I had to charge someone it would be up in the 50 to 100 hour range. Now that I have notes, that I posted previously I could probably cut my hours substantially especially if I remove the loader as working on the harness with it in the way is a bear.
I looked into installing a different fuse panel, I sure wouldn't want to do it unless I had a spare harness as it is integral to the main block where all the connectors are attached. I would guess that there is some interesting wiring or bus bars between the back of the fuse panel and the row of seven plugs. Not only does the power feed come through these blocks the main wiring between the cab also runs through it.
My feeling is if someone goes the way of custom building a harness from scratch unless they are very persistent I expect they will end up with parts SEE but feel free to prove me wrong
Looks like there may be a secondary market to get a good deal on a SEE bought on impulse with rat damage.
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