FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

MrSEE

Member
31
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6
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Billings, MT
@ Skidpad

I've gotten a set of the XZLs from CSM army tires out of ALA. I think for the money it's hard to beat, but yeah, price aside, I hear the Contis are pretty amazing general purpose tires. I have a SEE client with the 90% XZLs in Bozeman and a SEE client with the Conti MPT-81's in Idaho. Time will tell how they fare for them. The XZL doesn't appear that it will clear sticky clay-mud like the X's. Honestly the 81's look similar but I can't say from experience. I would say the XZL's are a definite step up for highway use over the X's (think that wider, flatter profile makes them less "darty" at similar pressures).
 

MrSEE

Member
31
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6
Location
Billings, MT
My how this thread has run over the past few months. I had to marathon it just to get into the last 20 pages. Great to see interest in these.

Big thanks to General Hood for the electrical diagrams. Should be nice, though the rat damage has made me mildly familiar with the behind-the-gauges wiring.

I noticed there was a post from FLU farm on fuel tank corrosion, particularly on the strainer. As mentioned by others, there is such a random mix of metals in the tank and strainer that it is hard to say exactly what causes it all. That said, diesel fuel could become very acidic if it were contaminated enough. There is no doubt our machines have sat for some time. Moisture alone would cause corrosion, but the level seen on the copper-based fuel tank strainer is pretty amazing. Would love to hear a real chemist comment on what diesel mixture could produce such a foul deposit.

To get rid of the corrosion on your strainer, go buy a big bottle of white vinegar at the grocery store, cut the top off, dip the strainer, let it sit for a couple hours. I've done this for the strainer and the fuel cap and it works great. Acetic acid dissolves copper corrosion and leaves copper surfaces perfectly clean. Even a 5% concentration like one buys at the store works well.

It'll make a color of copper you may have not seen before. "Pure" so to speak, at least for a few minutes.

I can't think of too much to add except that the locker cylinder advice has been great. Have definitely experienced most of the troubles mentioned here! If one has access to an excavator or various lifts, pulling the entire cab off isn't much more involved and doesn't require brackets.

I've been fighting an intermediate-shift problem lately and hope it will be solved without cab removal. The unit is the best or second-best I've seen out of 8 I've had ('09 rebuild), and after (even some before) my go-over all electrical and mechanical works except for the split-shift. Won't go into lower gears. I've removed some valves (a fight without taking cab off, but well worth it) and they look fine inside. I crack a line on the actual air shift assembly and can hear air, so hopefully it's not in the transmission. I figure no power to the solenoid right on top of transmission or the actual mechanism is seized... or maybe the overflow valve (7.3) isn't letting enough air into the auxiliary functions, but as said, 4x4 and diff locks work fine. Any thoughts welcome.

I might have some of the odd parts you guys need, so let me know if looking for a SEE-based part (know Scott @ EI has most MB stuff and has been great). I have a couple of parts units that have been a great help.

Thanks for all the input. I should've been more into this thread a few months ago!
 

FOD

New member
30
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Location
NW Ohio
I might have some of the odd parts you guys need, so let me know if looking for a SEE-based part (know Scott @ EI has most MB stuff and has been great). I have a couple of parts units that have been a great help.
I'm looking for a chainsaw and the bits for the breaker and drill if you happen to have an extra set.
 

The FLU farm

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Out of curiosity do you have the new style primer pump or the style that came with the SEE which has to be unscrewed?. The new style that EI sells (and ships with their filter kit) makes a lot of difference. They are cheap and its pretty much standard advice to change to one before doing anything else.

With respect to operation without the backhoe. Don't do it, definitely a bad thing as physics is going to win everytime. Even folks who plow with the 406 through 416 series pus a large counterweight in the back for plowing.
Peakbagger, I have the screw(ed) type pump, but since it seems to be working well enough, it can remain in place for now.

For a counterweight, I planned on using the backhoe's lower mounts and the "tow tab" to make a 3-point setup of sorts and hang something heavy on it. Yes, it will add a bit of length, but it would be a very effective place for weight, and it'd be low.
 

The FLU farm

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So, there's a vendor in ALA who has Michelin XZLs with 90%+ tread for $350 each. Or, the local dealer can get me the Conti MPT81's for just over $500 each.
In either case, I would look at the date code before buying. With radials' limited life span (whether they're being used or not) I always buy the youngest tires possible.
 

The FLU farm

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To get rid of the corrosion on your strainer, go buy a big bottle of white vinegar at the grocery store, cut the top off, dip the strainer, let it sit for a couple hours. I've done this for the strainer and the fuel cap and it works great. Acetic acid dissolves copper corrosion and leaves copper surfaces perfectly clean. Even a 5% concentration like one buys at the store works well.
Thanks for that suggestion, Mr. SEE. Looked at the strainer a couple of days ago, which has been soaking in gasoline for months, and it looks no different than when I put it in there.
White vinegar is now on the shopping list.
 

MSMOG

Member
84
0
6
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
"Why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price?" Hey guys, I'm new here. Earl in Mississippi. I'm not military, but after seeing an FLU419 at a surplus auction site years ago, I've wanted one ever since. So, I finally committed to buy one at auction, and then I figured why not get two. So, I ended up with 3. Mog 1 landed last night thanks to a great guy I found on Uship. Too dark to get video of unloading it, but I will try to do better with #2 and #3. In the dark, it looked pretty good, and it did not disappoint first thing this morning! We had a heck of a time getting it to crank. 07 year model batteries, and it's been sitting for at least 2 years. 3 big trucks and 3 sets of cables later, it would fire right up, but it would choke to death soon after disconnecting the cables. We had to pull it out of my neighbors lot into mine. His is empty. Mine is not. He would have thought it was cool blocking his bay door for all of 5 minutes. Hopefully we just have some trash and/or water in the fuel and a clogged fuel filter. It didn't sound great when we got it cranked for the short time it would run. Just picked up new batteries from Napa and got 6TL for $165 each, and they were in stock. Big surprise was what was in the tools boxes! They were locked until this morning, and it was just like opening Black Beards treasure chest. I video' the reveal. I'll post on YouTube and provide a link. Let's just say Christmas came early! I already see a few minor problems, and I've definitely got some questions, but I couldn't wait to join the club and make my first post. Looking forward to being part of the mog fam! Hope I can contribute some worthwhile info.
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General Hood

Member
713
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
"Why buy one when you can buy two for twice the price?" Hey guys, I'm new here. Earl in Mississippi. I'm not military, but after seeing an FLU419 at a surplus auction site years ago, I've wanted one ever since. So, I finally committed to buy one at auction, and then I figured why not get two. So, I ended up with 3. Mog 1 landed last night thanks to a great guy I found on Uship. Too dark to get video of unloading it, but I will try to do better with #2 and #3. In the dark, it looked pretty good, and it did not disappoint first thing this morning! We had a heck of a time getting it to crank. 07 year model batteries, and it's been sitting for at least 2 years. 3 big trucks and 3 sets of cables later, it would fire right up, but it would choke to death soon after disconnecting the cables. We had to pull it out of my neighbors lot into mine. His is empty. Mine is not. He would have thought it was cool blocking his bay door for all of 5 minutes. Hopefully we just have some trash and/or water in the fuel and a clogged fuel filter. It didn't sound great when we got it cranked for the short time it would run. Just picked up new batteries from Napa and got 6TL for $165 each, and they were in stock. Big surprise was what was in the tools boxes! They were locked until this morning, and it was just like opening Black Beards treasure chest. I video' the reveal. I'll post on YouTube and provide a link. Let's just say Christmas came early! I already see a few minor problems, and I've definitely got some questions, but I couldn't wait to join the club and make my first post. Looking forward to being part of the mog fam! Hope I can contribute some worthwhile info.
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Welcome to the forum from SE Oklahoma. Wow SEE x 3! .......#1 appears to be a good one
 

MSMOG

Member
84
0
6
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
When Mog 1 landed last night, it took 3 trucks to get it cranked. 2007 year model batteries that hadn't been fired in at least 18 months didn't want to do jack. So I picked up some new batteries at NAPA today. They actually had 2 in stock and 2 more in the local warehouse, model 6TMF. Originally, they told me $200 apiece, but the guy ended up selling them to me for $165 (another $30 for the core charge). Has anybody found a better or cheaper source? I just yesterday saw a guy in Mexico has NOS 2010 year model, military issue 6TMF batteries on ebay for $100 obo, plus $50 freight. I don't think they have ever had battery acid in them, so thy should be good as new. Unless he would give me a better deal, though, I think I would rather pay the extra $15 for brand new batteries at $165 with a warranty (6 month free replacement and an additional 30 month prorated). Here are pics of us trying to jump Mog 1 off and pics of the new batteries from NAPA. Anybody think I would have any luck trying to revive the 2 old batteries?
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

MSMOG

Member
84
0
6
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
Tires look like they have almost new tread, but they are cracking. Spare is in very good condition. Scott at EI has a set of (4) new Continental MP81 on eBay for about $2300, obo, shipping included. My local tire store has something new for about $350 each that matches the size, but I'm not sure if it would be a good alternative or if it would handle the weight of the Mog. It came with the Michelin tires that I guess every one of these originally got. I'm probably going to cruise around on the road more than I should and also do a little yard work. Any thoughts on this cheap tire?
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

General Hood

Member
713
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
When Mog 1 landed last night, it took 3 trucks to get it cranked. 2007 year model batteries that hadn't been fired in at least 18 months didn't want to do jack. So I picked up some new batteries at NAPA today. They actually had 2 in stock and 2 more in the local warehouse, model 6TMF. Originally, they told me $200 apiece, but the guy ended up selling them to me for $165 (another $30 for the core charge). Has anybody found a better or cheaper source? I just yesterday saw a guy in Mexico has NOS 2010 year model, military issue 6TMF batteries on ebay for $100 obo, plus $50 freight. I don't think they have ever had battery acid in them, so thy should be good as new. Unless he would give me a better deal, though, I think I would rather pay the extra $15 for brand new batteries at $165 with a warranty (6 month free replacement and an additional 30 month prorated). Here are pics of us trying to jump Mog 1 off and pics of the new batteries from NAPA. Anybody think I would have any luck trying to revive the 2 old batteries?
View attachment 648446View attachment 648447View attachment 648448View attachment 648449
There's always a "chance" you can revive the old batteries, my batteries were completely shot on both my SEEs. I put type 35 batteries from Auto Zone in mine and they hold up just fine. I look at this is really one of those SEE owner preference decisions. You can buy as good a battery as your pocket book will allow. You made a good choice with NAPA, IMO
 

General Hood

Member
713
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Tires look like they have almost new tread, but they are cracking. Spare is in very good condition. Scott at EI has a set of (4) new Continental MP81 on eBay for about $2300, obo, shipping included. My local tire store has something new for about $350 each that matches the size, but I'm not sure if it would be a good alternative or if it would handle the weight of the Mog. It came with the Michelin tires that I guess every one of these originally got. I'm probably going to cruise around on the road more than I should and also do a little yard work. Any thoughts on this cheap tire?
View attachment 648453View attachment 648452View attachment 648451View attachment 648450View attachment 648454View attachment 648455
I'm missing the spare on one of my SEEs. I've been shopping around too, but haven't found the elusive bargain. The GP yard in Texarkana has spare SEE tires and wheels laying around, but haven't had any luck talking them out of one.
 

MSMOG

Member
84
0
6
Location
Jackson, Mississippi
How common is it for the SEE trucks to still have this mechanic's tool set, in addition to the hydraulic tools? What about the jack and wheel chock? I wonder why the military, while spending tax payer dollars, didn't go ahead and included the hydraulic impact wrench? It sure would make service or changing a tire a lot easier. Guess I'll be looking for one on ebay. Was each truck originally issued with either the cab tilting parts and/or the big tall jack used to remove the front end loader?
mog tools 2.jpgmog tools 3.jpgmog tools 1.jpgmog tools 4.jpgmog tools 5.jpg
 

The FLU farm

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Anybody think I would have any luck trying to revive the 2 old batteries?
Welcome to the crazy world of FLUs, MSMOG. And yes, do give the old batteries a try, starting with low amperage and for a long time. Several days, if not weeks. Desulfation would be very helpful, too.
Generally I have had good luck with battery revival, but the two that came in my (formerly) parts SEE, I gave up on.

Minor progress to report. Today the hood I ordered from EI arrived. Since the "HMMH II" came without, one was needed. Besides, I had promised Scott to buy something to reward him for letting us know about the wall charts coming up for auction.
Yeah, it's a general 'glass hood, but it'll go on the (formerly) parts SEE, and its unpainted steel hood will get painted and put on the "HMMH II".
Also got close to finishing the spreader bar for the HMMH, and once I figure out how the wind machine is hooked up to my MIG, it'll get done.
Yes, the second I turn the welder on, a breeze comes up, like clockwork. And the welds look accordingly. Time to learn welding with the buzz box again, I guess.DSCN1358[1].jpgDSCN1359[1].jpg
 

BigBison

Member
317
1
16
Location
Yampa, CO
Sorry for the delay, I was somewhat surprised at what FedEx ground and UPS ground want to ship out a solitary starter...
Go Greyhound. At least that's worked for me in the past, as I'm not far from a Greyhound bus route. If the buyer and seller both have access to Greyhound, their cargo rates were very competitive, last I checked.

Here's the part where over half the folks reading this message are like, you can ship stuff via Greyhound? ;)
 
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