FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Speedwoble

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Given the recent flood of SEEs being sold I expect it may be worth his going back into production. There are probably work arounds for the cab support bracket (but realize serious injury could happen if the cab comes down on someone who doesn't do it right. QUOTE]


I still have them. I just haven't done a good job of advertising. I guess I will get back to it. PM me if you want a set.
 

The FLU farm

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Skid, I made some progress on the quick attach. Hopefully the pic will be helpful for when you start your cutting, welding, and grinding.
Tomorrow I should get to try it for fit and function, then a bit of grinding before paint.
Heck, I might even wax it,DSCN1372[1].jpg in honor of General Hood.
 

MSMOG

Member
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Location
Jackson, Mississippi
Searched again, this time for "24 volt Spal fan", but the closest that came up was a photo-less 12-incher...at close to $90.
Since I've already ordered the thick, surplus one, maybe it's a good thing nothing better came up.
My guess is that you now have a functional spare fan...which may not fit your shroud.

Ron, are you sure it was a rat living in there? Sounds like it might've been a small homeless person.

Today's lack-of-progress report on my part is getting one of the rear axle locating links off, to start trying to undo the forklift induced bends.
At least that work is free - yesterday was expensive, buying five buckets of AW 32 to replace the 10 weight oil in the front and rear hydraulics. At least it was only five since I already had two.
Also have engine oil and filter on the shelf, which helps a bit. Until the next one needs an oil change.
So has anyone, upon acquisition, found one of these to be already converted to AW32? In the later rebuilds, were they still using 10 weight oil? How much better does it run with the AW32?
 

MSMOG

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Taking a closer look today at one of the MOGS after spending yesterday doing a little cleanup and greasing. I see that several of my general observations and Ebay finds had already been mentioned and some of my questions already addressed. So thanks for everyone's patience and friendlieness. A few more pics below, most of the "not good" variety. Any suggestions of fixes or sources for replacement parts will be much appreciated.

I noticed these on each side of each loader bucket - what are they for?
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1 of the 2 bad cylinders I'm dealing with. Will talk to my hydraulic guys tomorrow before possibly ordering a replacement that I found on eBay. Looks like the chrome is just coming off after the cylinder being repeatedly banged against something.
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Noticed that the rubber boot/seal in the back of the cab is shot on at least one of my trucks.
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I think I've got the mirrors figured out, but I've got 1 crushed light fixture
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The closeup of the gnarly cylinder.
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One of the crushed exhaust pipes.
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I've got at least 1 busted hydraulic level gauge on one of the tanks, and it looks like they all leak I guess these are pretty standard. I'll ask the hydraulic shop.
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Has anyone actually received a unit with a work/spot light on the loader bucket? There is a cord on at least 2 of my trucks, and this pic also shows a rusty bolt that certainly used to hold a light.
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One of the other "forked" exhaust pipes.
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My SEA of SEEs
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MSMOG

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Does anybody know exactly what was done to these trucks when they were "overhauled" at RRAD? Was everything done regardless to wear and tear on the truck? I've noticed a few differences on my 3 trucks, overhauled in 2001, 2008, and 2010 respectively. The 2010 has LED lights on the rear (honestly I forgot to look in the front). The 2010 has a black engine. The 2001 has a green engine, but the engine is marked "CARC 8/04". The 2001 also has a tag hanging off the visor that says "Clutch JO#1344 KEY 1-157". Anybody know what that means? Has anyone had success banging these fenders out? Even EI recommended that I try that first and then spray with bedliner. Looks like I also have a bad clutch switch. Has anyone run across this Fleetgaurd LF-595 fuel filter being used? Did these hoods original come with an emblem of some type, maybe Mercedes? The 2 little holes seem to indicate they are set up for an emblem.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

Attachments

MSMOG

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Location
Jackson, Mississippi
And you're dressing the part also, aren't you?!


View attachment 649314
My girlfriend loves it when I wear a plaid shirt with my camo cargo shorts. Still about 90 degrees here today in Mississippi. I made the mistake of wearing a plaid shirt to the local law enforcement shooting range earlier this week. I was meeting a cop friend and several other detectives to do a little training with my AR15. The range master immediately id'd me as a civilian and promptly kicked me off the range. **** plaid shirt...
 

peakbagger

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Location
northern nh
Are these the infamous 16 amp fuses that I keep hearing about, regarding the hydraulic cooling fans? Yup, that one fuse runs a whole lot of stuff in the back of the truck, hydraulic cooling fans, remote throttle, hydraulic power tools, remote loader controls and maybe a few other things. Beside the shorted cooling fan bug, there is an issue with the remote switches with them getting wet. Its covered in those service tips I posted in the technical manual section.

Unfortunately I get an invalid attachment error whenever I try to open the attachments on the prior post. The service tips mention that the hydraulic level gauges leak if they overtightened. Mine had the black out light on the loader bucket. Its pretty useless, if its not on the bucket there is a bracket under the drivers side plow light to mount it. I think its supposed to be removed if the loader is actually used. I can guess the attachment I cant see of the loader bucket is pointing at the swing down clips that are supposed to be engaged when traveling ?

Cant help you on the CARC units mine wasn't reconditioned.
 
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Location
Tulsa
MSMOG, in your post (#1022), the object in question in picture #1 is a little retaining rod for the bracket that is just to the 4:00 of your finger. See the other little rod just like it, but with a pin in it? You'd pull that pin out, swivel the bracket upward to be over the peg you're pointing at, and then put the pin back in that peg. Then you can't accidentally slam your bucket into the ground while driving down the highway. There is one on each side of the bucket.

My boot/seal for the bucket controls is trashed too. Lemme know if ya find a replacement!

My exhaust was crushed exactly like yours.

My truck came with the single work light on the left side of the bucket arms.

Both my fenders needed some pall peen hammering, they turned out pretty darn good.
 

peakbagger

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northern nh
Ahh, you fixed the photos. I guessed right on those funny pins on the loader arms. They are part of the loader travel brackets. Raise the loader bucket up in the air about 5'. Now pull the snap clip that is in the lower part of the picture. Stashed up in the loader arm are set of swing out stops. They may be painted in place. When the bracket swings out it will slide over that dowel and the snap clip will go into the hole in the dowel. Do that on the other side and then lower the bucket. It eventually will stop going down and will rest on the stops. When traveling with the SEE you are supposed to set these stops to take the load off the hydraulics as they will slowly leak down and the bucket could scrape will driving down the road. The operator manual has some sketches. Since you are new to SEEs you definitely need to go through the operators manual and some of the weird stuff is explained.

The best option for the exhaust pipe is to pay a shop to cut out a section and just fab a new section. I have new header stashed away as the other end where it attaches to exhaust manifold is not easy to replicate. Despite the big diameter exhaust tubing there is major restriction in the pipe just downstream of the manifold, someday when I am forced to raise the cab, I plan to figure out why they have such a major restriction.

Yup the broken off light on the loader probably got broken off when it was left in place while being used as a loader. It a cheap piece of plastic that in theory lights up the ground when traveling. Mine got taken off for the duration since I am not restoring it for authenticity.

I have a bent fender, the only thing I can figure out is remove the fender and use a hydraulic press to bend it back. I just don't see bashing it with a hammer will work well as its pretty thick.

I have heard of folks polishing a rough spot on a cylinder but that cylinder sure looks like it needs rechroming . I have seen a couple of SEE take off backhoes for sale in the last year and expect you could buy the whole thing for less that a new rod from Case. I have one of the mast rods that I bought as one of my road had a few spots. They went away once I started using it but that cylinder is the only one I have that leaks, it seems to be getting less as I use so for now I just have oil absorbent pad wrapped around a the cylinder and held on by tie wraps. If the leak get worse I will have the new rod used when I have the seals replaced.
 
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The FLU farm

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Edit: This was in response to the question about 10W or AW32, but my attempt at quoting didn't stick.

Can't say that I ever thought to check what was in there. Just like with the engine oil, no matter how clean it may look, out it comes and known oil of my choice goes in. At the very least, have an oil analysis made if you want to keep the 10W. GP usually provides them, and the results generally aren't pretty.

In the case of my SEE, the difference was noticeable. And I'm no backhoe connoisseur. My reason for changing was simply that whatever was in there had to come out, and it was easier for me to buy AW32 than to find 10W. It also seemed more logical to put hydraulic fluid into a hydraulic system than to fill it with what the military used for logistical reasons.
Whether all SEEs would act favorably to AW32 I don't know, but when I get around to changing in the (formerly) parts SEE I'll at least know if it's two out of two. Realistically, I should've probably found out what Case recommends for a 580, but it's too late now as I already bought the AW32.
 

The FLU farm

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I noticed these on each side of each loader bucket - what are they for?

Noticed that the rubber boot/seal in the back of the cab is shot on at least one of my trucks.

I've got at least 1 busted hydraulic level gauge on one of the tanks, and it looks like they all leak I guess these are pretty standard. I'll ask the hydraulic shop.

Has anyone actually received a unit with a work/spot light on the loader bucket? There is a cord on at least 2 of my trucks, and this pic also shows a rusty bolt that certainly used to hold a light.
QUOTE]

As peakbagger pointed out, those brackets hold the loader arms up - handy when the loader is off for a quick attach conversion, for example.

I don't think I have a seal for the loader levers that isn't toast, or at least not in place.

A crushed level gauge will obviously have to be replaced, or eliminated, but you can usually tighten them up enough to stop leakage. Or, seal it up with silicone when changing the fluid, when the level is below the gauge.

That light on the loader arm is a useless blackout light. You can have it either on the left fender or on the loader. When on the fender it doesn't limit visibility, if you want to have one mounted.
 

The FLU farm

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I have a bent fender, the only thing I can figure out is remove the fender and use a hydraulic press to bend it back. I just don't see bashing it with a hammer will work well as its pretty thick.
You got that right! I had to use a hydraulic jack (in essence a press, using the HMMH as a weight over the floor) to get the door skin on the HMMH straightened out.
Another way could be with an air chisel. I modified one bit (tie rod separator) into a mushroom shape and it works fairly well even on thicker stuff.
 

FOD

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NW Ohio
So has anyone, upon acquisition, found one of these to be already converted to AW32? In the later rebuilds, were they still using 10 weight oil? How much better does it run with the AW32?
I'm using AW32 in mine and it seems to like it just fine.
 

Bikers33

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British Columbia
Forgive my ignorance, General, but what is a bridge plate for?
Bridge Plates are mounted to the front of military vehicles.... Every bridge crossing "in theater" would have a weight restriction with a designated number. The bridge plate number on the front or the vehicle must be at that number or lower for that vehicle to safely cross. Sorry GH but had to answer that question for the young fella.
 
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