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FMTV Brake drum fitment

INFChief

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I searched the forum using key words & phrases but came up empty.

Preface: Perhaps this info will be helpful in pinpointing the “limp” as well as the brake shoe concern.

I picked up Goodyear tires months ago to specifically swap out the Michelins. The more I drove the truck I noticed a “limp” coming from the right rear. It didn’t start out as a limp rather it was more like the sound you get when driving over concrete highway expansion joints. I don’t drive the truck much so the transition to a limp seems pretty sudden. Limp defined: The truck seems to raise up at lower speeds - hence the “limp” but it’s not very noticeable at higher speeds. Because this limp has gotten more pronounced I decided to swap the wheels/tires now. I have also had the intermediate driveshaft checked & balanced; it wasn’t our very much. I will have the rear and front driveshafts checked & balanced this week.

Today while swapping over from Michelins to Goodyears I decided to pull the brake drum and look at the brakes.

I started with the right rear as the limp seems to be coming from that area. As I was looking over the brake shoes I immediately noticed that between 1/8” & 3/16” of the shoe was not inside the drum (obvious inner edge of the brake shoe was raised indicating no contact with the drum). I looked at the other drums and I noticed only 1 other that was similar but not as pronounced. The shoes on the other drums set back inside the drum - beyond that beveled edge on the outer lip of the drum.

I checked the drum interior for clues of something preventing the drum from sliding back and fully contacting the hub face - no issues. I then checked the hub and all lug studs.

What I found is that the lug stud shoulder has a bevel where the shoulder transitions to threads (which is typical) & this beveled shoulder protrudes beyond the hub face. The amount of protrusion on the lug studs is coincidentally the same approximate amount that the drum do

I’m wondering if these studs are incorrect or if the lug stud holes in the brake drum should be beveled to allow the raised shoulder of the lug stud to seat?
 

GeneralDisorder

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Interesting. If the drum is not flush against the hub flange I would say that's a problem and if the studs are holding it up and it needs a matching bevel inside the drum stud holes I would clearance it till it sits flush against the hub flange.
 

INFChief

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Interesting. If the drum is not flush against the hub flange I would say that's a problem and if the studs are holding it up and it needs a matching bevel inside the drum stud holes I would clearance it till it sits flush against the hub flange.
Have considered doing that. Was curious to know if this problem had surfaced before & if it were a prevailing problem.
 

Ronmar

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I have noticed that on a truck I test drove for a friend, but it did not have any driving issues. It could also be a factor of hub placement. To confirm the drum is all the way seated, With the drum in place. Spin 2 opposing lug nuts on to hold it firm then measure stud protrusion past the drum. then remove the drum and measure stud protrusion from the hub flange and then drum thickness… protrusion from drum and drum thickness should equal stud length from the hub flange.
 

INFChief

Well-known member
721
1,343
93
Location
New York
I have noticed that on a truck I test drove for a friend, but it did not have any driving issues. It could also be a factor of hub placement. To confirm the drum is all the way seated, With the drum in place. Spin 2 opposing lug nuts on to hold it firm then measure stud protrusion past the drum. then remove the drum and measure stud protrusion from the hub flange and then drum thickness… protrusion from drum and drum thickness should equal stud length from the hub flange.
Plan on removing that drum again today. Getting the shoes tucked fully inside is important but the critical piece is not distorting the drum when tightening lug nuts because the drum stands off the hub face.
 
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