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Frequent Towing: pull axle shafts, drop u-joints, or install 2nd trans oil cooler

Oxyacetylene

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I don't think flat towing an LMTV would be enjoyable at all on a routine basis. I have pulled the M1082 trailer, which only weighs about 6500 lbs empty, and my M1078 drove noticeably different. The truck downshifts faster on hills, the fan runs more, etc. All of that would be worse towing an LMTV, especially one outfitted as a mobile shop. This is just my opinion, but I sure wouldn't plan to do that. If you really want to take two trucks then plan to drive both unless one breaks down. Invest in a good intercom and radio so you can comfortably communicate between vehicles. Like ramdough said you could just take one truck plus trailer, and you could drop the trailer for short excursions.
 

DiverDarrell

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Does anyone make lockouts and double splined axles like you can get for the Deuce axles?
not for the lmtv geard wheel reduction. Owning an LMTV I can say for fact that it would not be fun towing that kind of weight, with all of the parasitic drag of turning everything through another trans. You might get up to speed on a flat or downhill, but any incline and I bet top speed will be exceptionally low. Foot would always be on the floor lol... It's not only transmission heat to deal with but also the motor. And with a tow bar/flat tow, The lack of tongue weight, dirt/ice/snow there will be no drive traction.

As for getting stuck, the army teaches how to winch these out using only man power, put a block on a winch and you double the power. Add a few and you don't need much of a winch, just need a ton of line.
 

TNriverjet

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Maybe the reason there is not much information on this is due to the impracticality. It simply hasn't been done with long term success. That said, the question still stands related to how the towed vehicle transmission could be cooled or drive train disconnected to effectively flat tow. While it may not be a practical option for the OP's use, the information could still be helpful for recoveries and fellow member assistance.
 

sideburnie

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Maybe the reason there is not much information on this is due to the impracticality. It simply hasn't been done with long term success. That said, the question still stands related to how the towed vehicle transmission could be cooled or drive train disconnected to effectively flat tow. While it may not be a practical option for the OP's use, the information could still be helpful for recoveries and fellow member assistance.
Agreed. I've been trying to set aside some time to do a bit more searching, but it's still not completely clear in my mind of the typical failure mode when flat towing (and if running the transmission oil cooler radiator fans would be a sufficient remedy). So far I've only found failures traced back to a lack of oil in the front differential or hubs.

Found this post linking to a study performed on early LMTVs that found axles within and without spec, that the alternator mount was weak (affecting reliability of the water pump), and some other details about the engine / transmission / transfer-case housing etc. (none of which was confidence inspiring TBH): https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ure-home-now&p=1537400&viewfull=1#post1537400
 

DiverDarrell

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Drive train is disconnected by popping the u-joints at the axle or one can pull the shafts from the rear and pull only the front u-joint. If there was a better way the army would have done it. When these trucks brake down they bring in a wrecker. 15min and the right tools and you can flat tow the truck without potentially destroying a transmission. Don't over complicate and risk your bank account lol. The manual states you can flat tow without disconnecting anything for short distances and slow speed. As far as the axle issues, that was really a drive shaft issues that was 100% corrected. And the D stamp on all trucks to prove it. The ambloid geared hubs will prevent any reasonable hub locks. And with the truck being awd you can't run 2 wheel drive. Practicality is a very subjective term and in my opinion long distance flat towing with another built out rv rig is impractical. But that's just my opinion. And since there isn't much info on what your asking so you can break new ground and inform the rest. I got one of the early lockers installed and it works great. Risk sometimes pays out
 

Awesomeness

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If there was a better way the army would have done it. When these trucks brake down they bring in a wrecker.
I disagree. The reason the trucks aren't easier to tow is that the Army has little interest in flat-towing them, and has a boatload of privates just waiting to be ordered to do things that take way too much time. Basically, there just hasn't been a need to spend the money to equip the trucks with some kind of expensive disconnect mechanism, not that it's too hard to make.

I do think that the original poster's idea (to drive one around towing the other, as the default mode of operation) is a bit unrealistic. Then again, most people probably think that us owning these trucks and driving them around at all is unrealistic. Maybe he'll buy the first one and come to the same conclusion, or perhaps he'll just be even more convinced. Personally, I'm just curious to see it happen! My mind has already been going round and round about the sweet driveshaft QDs.
 

DiverDarrell

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Fancy disconnects are also one more item that can break. If one shaft fails to re-lock the truck isn't going anywhere, without a tow that is. HA!! It would probably be easier to re power, and put in a true transfer case that could even have a low range. It's just money, and as I tell my wife every time she ask about the cost of truck parts "we can make more" or install Rockwell top loader axles and get the hub disconnects.
 

expeditionnw

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Alaska
Agreed. I've been trying to set aside some time to do a bit more searching, but it's still not completely clear in my mind of the typical failure mode when flat towing (and if running the transmission oil cooler radiator fans would be a sufficient remedy). So far I've only found failures traced back to a lack of oil in the front differential or hubs.

Found this post linking to a study performed on early LMTVs that found axles within and without spec, that the alternator mount was weak (affecting reliability of the water pump), and some other details about the engine / transmission / transfer-case housing etc. (none of which was confidence inspiring TBH): https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ure-home-now&p=1537400&viewfull=1#post1537400
Above all else, I think you should go hook up to another truck and tow it around. I think youll find very quickly that it isnt a super fun time.

Another thought, have you driven your truck offroad? the trucks do well for what they are, but they will not go most places a stock pickup truck would have no issue. Like the truck itself, it excels in disproportionately unique terrain. 5' of snow, 5' of water, 5' tall rocks.... It is a terrible choice for one lane jeep trails and skinny logging roads.

I believe your time is better spent putting a nice trailer together that is purpose built to haul your tools etc. you could build something much lighter and more useful than a M1082. those things empty are 6500lbs! If you wanted to keep the lug pattern, use a 10 lug heavy trailer axle. i bet you could shave 3000lbs off and have a better trailer.

But honestly, These truck are more reliable than needing a full machine shop and parts truck at all times.

I would much rather learn to back up a trailer behind my LMTV than deal with flat towing a whole other truck.
 
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