Fuel Shutoff Rod Position Question

[TruckGuy]

No Start, Fuel Shutoff Rod Position, Hydraulic Head Button

So I have the typical situation..... Truck ran fine with no signs of problems... Parked and sat for a week... Went to start tuck to let run for awhile.... No start.


Spent some time in the threads and TMs. Looks like the common thought is for the control rod lever to sit at the 7-8 o'clock position and move back to the 4-5 o'clock position.


Pulled the cover on mine. Moves freely. Good spring action. Can feel a good solid stop when I let it spring back to the run position. But the position looks wrong. Stops maybe just before the 6 o'clock position. Clearly different from the pic in Gimpyrobb's post in the stickys. As for the 4-5 o'clock position, that stops when the lever hits the "bridge" screw.


So what do you guys think? Correct positions?

.

 

[dmetalmiki]

If it ran well before, and the screws and settings are tight. I would be looking at fuel source, or filters first. Did you try the bleed screws first?. Is the intank pump running?.

 

[TruckGuy]

Yep. In-tank pump works. I went ahead and changed the filters first. Watched fuel come though the lines when I first turned pump back on. Opened bleed screw on top of secondary filters, plenty on fuel there.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That rod connects to the fuel block which rides up/down on the fuel plunger. Might be some gunk on there. Have you tried to move it back further? Try not to pry on it, but be firm. It should move freely to both stops.

Right now your not getting the fuel block to "full open".

 

[TruckGuy]

gimpyrobb - I'll give that a try. It does have a good metal to metal "tap" when it goes back to that position, so it feels like it's hitting something. I'll check and see if it will go further. The connecting rod goes back to a lever in the governor, right? Any chance something there is preventing full travel? Think it's worth it to disconnect the rod to see it I get more travel?

 

[Davis Welding]

Pull your FDC andhave a look at the fulcrum lever/sliding sleeve of the governor. That is where my fueling issue was. The lever/sleeve was sticking in the no fuel position.

 

[TruckGuy]

gimpyrobb - Took another look today. Tried moving the rod further to the run position, felt solid. I went ahead and pulled the fuel rod. Every looks nice and clean and moves freely. The plunger sleeve moves freely. I can lift it up and it will fall freely. What is stopping everything in that "just before 6 o'clock" position is the connecting rod going back to the FDC/Governor. You can see in the pic where it stops. It will not go further forward. Definite metal to metal stop feel when I pull it to that position.

Davis - What did you find when you pulled you FDC?

From the TM is seems that pulling the FDC would be safe (and easy, mine has been bypassed). Other warn it's asking for headaches.

 

[whatadeuce]

My truck #3 had a similar issue, and the repair amounted to effectively restoring internal lubrication in the fuel injector pump. where the control rod, for whatever reason, was sticking. I opened the timing cover window, and noticing that the control rod movement was stiff, I sprayed WD40 into the pump housing rearwards so to lube the internal parts up to the governor. It worked. had it not worked, my plan was to remove the fuel density cover, and flood the pump housing with transmission fluid, then close it all and attempt to start. Next would be to test the operating " rod for free movement...keep us posted

 

[Davis Welding]

gimpyrobb - Took another look today. Tried moving the rod further to the run position, felt solid. I went ahead and pulled the fuel rod. Every looks nice and clean and moves freely. The plunger sleeve moves freely. I can lift it up and it will fall freely. What is stopping everything in that "just before 6 o'clock" position is the connecting rod going back to the FDC/Governor. You can see in the pic where it stops. It will not go further forward. Definite metal to metal stop feel when I pull it to that position.

Davis - What did you find when you pulled you FDC?

From the TM is seems that pulling the FDC would be safe (and easy, mine has been bypassed). Other warn it's asking for headaches.



View attachment 601846View attachment 601845

I found that the fulcrum lever and sliding sleeve were hanging up on something(probably gummed up oil/fuel) I pulled the governor off and took some brake cleaner in there to remove the scummy oil. That was all I did. Reinstalled it and everything was ship shape! There is nothing in the FDC that will fall out or be messed up if you remove it. Being that it is bypassed, it will be much easier to remove/install.

 

[TruckGuy]

OK. Had a few min to look at the truck today. I pulled the FDC to see what things looked like. Everything inside was clean and seemed moved freely.

Looks like the the reason the fuel rod is not going all the way to the 7-8 o'clock position is because that is where the FDC is set. With the FDC in place I can feel a hard metal-to metal stop wen going the toward the 7-8 o'clock position. Stops just before the 6 o'clock position. With the FDC removed, the resting position is around that 7-8 o'clock position. I can move it further against the spring tension.

None of this has been adjusted and has been running fine.

Take a look at the pic showing the adjusting rod. I know I've read somewhere on here about how many threads are normally showing, but I don't remember how many.

 

[TruckGuy]

A little more digging today....

Decided to go ahead and pull the Hydraulic Head. Pretty simple to pull. Lifted the HH out and found the problem. Just your standard "Yep, the button fell off". Took a few more pics for those that want to see.

Hey gimpyrobb - Read in a post somewhere you had some retaining clips. Any still available? Hard to see in the pic, but my clip does have a slight bend in the circle part. Also, the plunger sleeve does full a bit sticky. Will probably pull the plunger and clean everything.

As for the fuel rod position being just before the 6 o'clock position... Looking at the instruction to bypass the FDC, I think it was just set that way. It has been running fine, what little bit I have driven the truck. I can't compare performance because it's the only Deuce I've ever driven.

Once I get the pyro/boost gauges in, I can see just how low they have the fuel turned down...