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Genset Mep-016B Onan Diesel

Isaac-1

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I am not sure which ones you have, but google for pdf's

5-6115-615-12


5-6115-615-24P


5-6115-615-34

amd it should give you all the important manuals, the -12 is a field service and operator, although I think I have seen an operator only manual at one point, but it did not have much information, mostly generic stuff.

Ike
 

traktrjorj

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016B gendet

Issac; Thanks for the input. I will look up the number you gave me. On the basic side of this. Can you give me a quick summary of where you would put the front panel dials at just to start it and plug in a mechanics light to see if it will do anything. It has 2 110V recepticals on the front panel. I will change the oil ( any recommendations)? Check the fuel system, hook up 2 12 v batterys. Where next? stuff like put: dial ? where(what setting). I will eventually figure this out but just a quick summary will get it started. I actually can return it if it doesn''t work. It only has 22 hrs. on it. You can post info here or direct contact at gncdavis@frontiernet.net, Thanks
 

Isaac-1

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First before starting you need to decide what output voltage you want to select, either 120V 1 phase, 240V 1 phase (may be 120/240V output some are wired this way even if the manual calls it 240V only), 120/208V 3 phase or a special 120V only 3 phase mode. If your using it for backup power around the house you most likely want to set it for 120V 1 phase, this is done with a selector knob inside the control panel (open the panel with a flat head screw driver (2 or 3 screws above the gauges) knob is on the right side I think, turn to selected voltage. There is also a voltage selector knob on the front of the panel, it only changes the meter reading, not the output voltage, if your using 120V 1 phase you will want it in V1-0 all other positions should read 0 on the voltage meter above it. Set Current Selector to L1, again this is just for the meter, all other positions will read 0 in 120V mode. To start the engine when your ready use the master selector switch, it is like a car key turn back and hold to pre-heat (only needed when cold), then crank over to start, and release when running, it then should spring back to run. In the run position it draws fuel from the internal tank, if you have an external tank, you can move the selector back one position to run aux fuel, which will automatically refill the onboard tank when the float drops to a certain point. Once running use the knob below the outlet to adjust engine speed, set at 60 hz on the frequency meter, if the frequency meter is broken (common problem), check with a good multi-meter, fine tune the output voltage with the voltage adjust knob. Leave the setting there, and start it next time in this position, the manual says to turn it down and start at the low speed position on start, but this cable assembly is prone to breaking and spare parts are hard to find.

You should be running now, some of these units are wired with the onboard outlets going through the cut off breaker, others are wired direct and the breaker only controls the output lugs. Onboard outlets may be wired as 2 separate 15 amp or a single 15 amp, you will find the manual is not always right on these, note there are mistakes in the output wiring diagram in the manual.

Ike
 
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traktrjorj

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016B startup

Thanks for your input. I called my army construction engineeer son this morning and he is going to call me back with some info too. He is going to talk to his platton sargent who is an electrical engineer and has worked with many military generators over the years. He said maybe he would even call me with ideas/info. So maybe between your knowledge and his hopefully if I don't scew something up by tomorrow it will be up and running. I have worked on gas small engines for years but generators I know nothing about and never saw one single 1 cyl diesel in the shop for any repairs. Well again, I thank you for your knowledge.
 

Isaac-1

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Anytime your dealing with a diesel that has not started in a while like this you need to make sure fuel is getting all the way to the diesel injectors. If the fuel system has ran dry you can't juse crank them to prime like a gasoline engine, you have to bleed the injector lines at the injectors. Be careful doing this as the diesel fuel is at high pressure and can inject through your skin. There are numerous step by step examples online of how to bleed a diesel injector. Otherwise for first start attemped on one of these, make sure you have fuel and oil (I use Rotella 15W40, SAE 30 weight Heavy Duty Diesel oil (not automotive) is probably a closer fit to the specificaiton, but is harder to find, there are a lot of us using common 15W40 with no problems on these sets. Hook up your 2, 12V batteries in series, and with the output breaker off, crank away and see if it comes to life, some smoke on inital start up is common.

Ike
 

Beerslayer

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Thanks for bringing up the Operator's Manual issue. I have the TM and it doesn't explain what all those knobs on the front are for.

If you find the Operator's Manual, would you please link to it in this thread?

The correct battery for the 016b is a 4HN made by Deka in the USA. They run $130 to $150. Check with your battery distributors to see who carries Deka, they will probably have to order it.
 

traktrjorj

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Herrick, Illinois
manuals 016B

I have been reading the manuals and identifying parts of them that pertain to operation of the genset. the TM 5-6115-615-12 is in their version an operators manual up to section "V" page 4-7 then turns into more technical and maintenance procedures.. Not that this is not important info but gets to be heavy reading for me. I am learnign what everything on this unit is for but since it is a 3 model book not all pertains to the 016B so you have to pick it out. I am using a highlighter to mark all info on the 016B. The 24P manual is more of a parts manual and the 34 manual is more of a maintenance manual. I haven't started my unit yet but I want to know evrything is OK and I have some operator knowledge before I start it up. My suggestion would be to copy at least the first 75 pages and read them until you understand the basics. I also from this site have gotten some great info on my purchase. Thanks for all your help!
 

traktrjorj

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016b

To the members of this site , I want to thank you. I used all your suggestions and got my new generator up and running. I ran it about a half hour then plugged a trouble light and sabre saw and it never even wimpered. Runs as smooth as I have ever saw a diesel run. It does have a little noise to it but I do not see a big problem there. I am happy with my purchase. Although I hope I don't have to use it much, I am glad I have a backup now at least for the furnace and water. Again I thank you and have a Great Weekend.
 

traktrjorj

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016b

I do have a question now that i have a little run time.. I hooked up 2 small 12 volt batteries in a series and it started right up. The question would be: Will the 2 -12v batteries be charged by the unit for the next time I want to start it? Will the unit overcharge the batteries being as they are 2 12v vs the standard 24v. My flukemeter display , when the engine is running, at the battery cables it is putting a charge out at 25.4v. The other question is : I unhooked one battery cable and the engine started to die. I thought the generator would keep running without a battery if it was started and running but I guess not. Any input appreciated, Thanks, Gary
 

PeterD

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... (1)when the engine is running, at the battery cables it is putting a charge out at 25.4v. The other question is : (2)I unhooked one battery cable and the engine started to die. I thought the generator would keep running without a battery if it was started and running but I guess not. Any input appreciated, Thanks, Gary

(1) 25.4 seems low to me. You really would want to have about 27.5 to 28.5 volts to properly charge a LA battery.

(2) Along with the low charge voltage, this really indicates that the charging circuit is not performing properly. BTW, it is (strongly) recommended you never disconnect batteries from any engine while it is running--on many systems doing that will damage the alternator or regulator, and possibly cause a surge on the 24v line that can cause damage to other components fed from it.
 

Isaac-1

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SW, Louisiana
I wanted to second what Peter said, you may have a problem with your voltage regulator / internal alternator, or it may just be corrosion on your connections, go through clean and check all the connections and see if the voltage comes up. Otherwise a pair of matched 12V batteries in series should act identical to a 24 volt battery (this after all is basically what a 24V battery is, just all in one case), the key here is matched, meaning same brand and size, and from the same produciton lot (date code on battery should be close enough). As batteries age they get where the cells don't accept a charge as well as when newer, by having matched production dates you don't end up with one battery accepting more of the charge than the other in the series resulting in cooking off the battery water (much the same also applies to mixing sizes and brands).

Ike
 

PeterD

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Just an additional thought. When I put the two 12 volt batteries in series for my equipment, I first charge the fully, so they are 'balanced' initially. That helps greatly as if they are not at the same state of charge it is difficult to get them both charged fully once placed in series. I simply use my 12 volt charger to do this, and is usually a quick job.
 

traktrjorj

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OK, all suggestions taken. I will charge the new batteries I bought so I know they are the same when I start it up again. I will also look at the connections and make sure all of mine are tight on the batteries. I'll then start it up, run it for a few minutes and I'll take the readings again. I guess I am just use to garden tractors because I have used a jumper box to start them for years at customers houses because of a dead battery, unhooked the jumper box and they stay running until I get them on the trailer. I have never had any problems doing this. I will do as I am told with this generator as 24v and generators are something I have not worked on but am learning. Thanks again. I'll get back on here once I have some more stats.
 

traktrjorj

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update

Just wanted to update this forum. I took both new bateries and charged them equally and checked them with my flukemeter. I then installed them in the battery spot side by side , cleaned the battery connections and hooked them up. Still chargeing about the same. Charging at 25.6v this time after running the motor about 5 minutes. I am down in the back right now and not doing any physical work but will update you later. I did not clean any other connections other than the batteries. Will do some reading in the manual now about the charging system as I can't do much else in my condition. Thanks,
 
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