Good ideas for screw extraction, please

[rmgill]

Bjorn, you could run a tap through it to oversize and helicoil it. That'd be stronger than original.

 

[cranetruck]

Ryan, I'll check it out as an alternative. The hole is now 5/8 inch dia and no threads.

 

[neil2007]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please

If you can get to it easily, I have used my small wire welder to very carefully build up the center of the bolt. Than place a nut over that and weld it. The heat usually lossens it up and it comes out.

This method works VERY WELL. I use this method all the time when restoring vehicles that have broken/seized bolts (usually exhaust bolts). I recently just did this for a set of bleeder screws that were stripped and seized in a set of calipers for a '66 Mustang GT. (Original calipers are very expensive to replace) and it worked perfect both times.

Key here is to get enough weld to get good heat into the bolt, but not any weld onto the main tapped part of the metal. Let it cool to where it's not red and try to remove it with a ratchet. Iit will either shear off the new weld (if you had too many impurities in the weld) or it comes right out with a ratchet. If it shears, just re-weld a second nut back to it and try it all again...

Good luck!


Neil

 

[cranetruck]

Bjorn, you could run a tap through it to oversize and helicoil it. That'd be stronger than original.

Okay, I would have to drill it to 13/16 or so, for the external threads. The boss would be weakened, IMHO.
I'll use a through bolt for now. The purpose of it is to support the center, pivot point, of the idler arm for the fan belts. A second bolt supports one end, so there is not a lot of stress with the belts purposely left loose enough to cause the fan to slip under water (which may never happen anyway).

Thanks again for the advise. Using the lefthanded bits was a hit.

I'm blowing my monthly allowance on drive belts and coolant hoses this time.....