Harmonic Balancer installer

ldmack3

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I've finished my idler gear repair, have the oil pan, water pump, etc. all installed. Now on to the harmonic balancer. Issue is my puller/ installer does not have the correct adapter for the internal threads on the crank. It's a 1"-15 TPI thread and mine only goes up to about 7/8". I've been unable to find an adapter or even a set with that thread. I've searched SS and the internet especially the companies that claim to specialize in diesel engines. I have not heated the balance as per the TM yet, trying to get all my duck in a row first, but it won't even start to fit over the crank.
After heating is it likely to slip over enough to use the bolt to push it the rest of the way?
Any help appreciated.
 

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NDT

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Yes. Clean both the crank and balancer bore to bright and shiny and grease the crank and heat the balancer.
 

ldmack3

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I'll try the oven tomorrow. I just spent about 30 - 45 min with a 450F heat gun and a propane torch. Couldn't handle it without thick gloves.
Went on about 1/8". So I spent more time polishing it and the crank.
 

DaneGer21

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I'll try the oven tomorrow. I just spent about 30 - 45 min with a 450F heat gun and a propane torch. Couldn't handle it without thick gloves.
Went on about 1/8". So I spent more time polishing it and the crank.
You can even go the extra step and set an ice pack or two on the crank while the balancer is in the oven…every little bit can help
 
Last edited:

JasonS

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You really don't want to remove any material from the crank or damper as this reduces the interference fit. It is the interference fit and the clamp load that really keeps the damper from moving; not the key. I welded a bolt onto the end of the damper bolt and used that to draw the damper onto the crank.
 

ldmack3

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It's funny how when I pulled it, after I initially broke it loose it came right off easily.
 

ldmack3

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Well all that got it on was 1/4" and had to use the puller to get it back off. Working over the winch I'm sure I'm getting it slightly cocked which freezes it up. Going to order a 1"x14 bolt 5.5 " long. Be next week before I get it so I'll be on break until then.
I feel certain if I could pull the winch and bumper I could get it on. But my back says NO!

Thanks for all the advice.
 

davidb56

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Bonners Ferry Idaho
Well all that got it on was 1/4" and had to use the puller to get it back off. Working over the winch I'm sure I'm getting it slightly cocked which freezes it up. Going to order a 1"x14 bolt 5.5 " long. Be next week before I get it so I'll be on break until then.
I feel certain if I could pull the winch and bumper I could get it on. But my back says NO!

Thanks for all the advice.
those better be grade 8, or you may be drilling out a broken chink bolt out of the crank......slop never sieve on the crank too.
 

ldmack3

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It is grade 8. But if its too tight I'll regroup anyway. I'll reheat and attempt to install before I go with the bolt and I'll use the bolt through my remover/installer palate.
What mean "slop never sieve on the crank too"?
 

ldmack3

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Tomorrow I should get my bolt to help me install the balancer. I want to rotate the crank 1/4 turn so the key in on top and visible. It's on the passenger side so need to turn it CW standing in front looking at it.
Can I just do it slowly or something special I need to do first like pull or loosen the injectors to relieve compression? Fuel has been shut off since last run about 2 months ago. No oil or water in it at present. Been freezing at night for about a week.
 

DaneGer21

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Tomorrow I should get my bolt to help me install the balancer. I want to rotate the crank 1/4 turn so the key in on top and visible. It's on the passenger side so need to turn it CW standing in front looking at it.
Can I just do it slowly or something special I need to do first like pull or loosen the injectors to relieve compression? Fuel has been shut off since last run about 2 months ago. No oil or water in it at present. Been freezing at night for about a week.
I recommend putting the truck in 5th gear, transfer case in neutral, then use the jack shaft to rotate the engine with a pry bar or something equivalent
 
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