Has anyone ever installed energy suspension body bushings?

[Erik Jenkinson]

I understand that one of the major pitfalls in replacing body bushings on an m1009 is rust seizing up the body mount bolts, causing all kinds of problems in removing them. I have sprayed all mine with deep creep, and was able to carefully loosen them with no problem. No really significant rust exists. My concern is the "female" part, or "hidden nut" within the body supports at the rocker panel. If I completely remove the bolt, can these migrate away from the opening, not allowing me to reinstall? The reason I ask is because I can feel some rotation in them prior to the time that they catch, and then begin to loosen. Are they fixed, or can they get away from me when I jack up the body enough to clear the two rearmost bolts out of the frame to remove and replace the bushings? I am also assuming that I must remove the bars that assist in opening and closing the tailgate (torsion bars?), as well as disconnect the fuel filler tube. Am I leaving anything out? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[scottladdy]

I have on an M1009 and an M1008. Made a huge improvement in ride quality and handling.

The nuts are heavy square pieces captured in a stamped steel cage inside the floor supports. The cage allows a small amount of movement of the nut. This is normal. As long as the cage is intact and attached to the floor panel with spot welds you should be OK. Make certain you do not cross thread.

Never use an impact on these bolts. The bolts had blue thread locker applied at the factory and combined with the inevitable corrosion on some bolts is guaranteed to shear the cage spot welds leaving you with a "spinner".

If you do wind up with a spinner, carefully locate the center of the bolt through the floor from above. Carefully cut a hole with a hole saw directly over the bolt which will provide access to the nut. Based on what you find you may be able to hold the nut through the hole. Or if not you may need to open up a larger hole being careful not to cut into the floor supports.

I had to do this on my M1009 over one bolt due to corrosion. I used the piece of sheet metal I took out as a template for a replacement piece that I welded back in. The hole from the hole saw allows access to get a socket over the replacement grade 8 bolt or nut (whichever you decide should go on the "inside") so you can properly tighten the assembly. If you use a standard sized hole saw you can use a standard metal or plastic plug to cover the hole and allow future maintenance.

I followed the instructions provided with the kit and did not have to disconnect the tailgate or fuel filler in any way. Loosen the bolts on one side but do not remove. Remove on the opposite side and carefully lift the body. I used a 2K lb. transmission jack I bought from HF which worked great to lift the body without causing damage.

Not sure if I have pictures but will look sometime over the weekend.

Oh, and after you are done and the truck is properly supported at the original height off the frame be prepared to make some adjustments. Steering wheel angle, transmission and transfer case shifters, backup light switch, etc. Adjustments are all outlined in the TM's.

 

[Erik Jenkinson]

Will I need to disconnect that flexible portion of the steering column, or anything else? I was planning on removing the transfer case shift/boot indicator to allow some room for movement, as well as the linkage at the steering column to my transmission.

 

[rustystud]

I went with POLY bushings on all my frame mounts. I loosened all the mounting bolts, then went and removed each one by jacking up the frame a little bit (just enough to remove the mount). After all the new mounts where installed I tightened everything up. I also used anti-sieze on all the bolt threads. After 4 years there still nice and tight and no rust.

 

[scottladdy]

Will I need to disconnect that flexible portion of the steering column, or anything else? I was planning on removing the transfer case shift/boot indicator to allow some room for movement, as well as the linkage at the steering column to my transmission.

I did not have to. I've been running mine for two years no issues.

 

[Westman73]

I did not have to. I've been running mine for two years no issues.

old thread… but does anyone have the part number ?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

All of the GM part numbers can be found in the TMs, which are free to download on this site. They give the Army's part number and the GM part number. It's a good place to start looking.

But most parts can be found online just by looking up parts for an '84 Chevy K30. And, yes, it's an 84. The Army didn't want the hassle of dealing with model year changes in their supply chain, so they required them all to be built to 84 specs. When you need parts, you want 1984 parts, no matter if your truck was built in 84, 85, or 86.