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Hi from Atlanta, GA - Question about runaway starter

HelluvaEngineer

Active member
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Location
Atlanta, GA
Hi guys. Thanks to everyone who maintains this site. I've been lurking for a few days reading the FAQs and various topics. I was hoping to be an m1009 owner this week, but it appears I will not be unfortunately. I'd like to relay my experience in case there's something I am overlooking.

I found a m1009 fairly close by that a gentleman had bought off a local mechanic. I don't think he had himself put many miles on it. He mentioned that when he bought it the truck had "starter problems" and the mechanic "repaired it" before doing the deal. Well, I went out last weekend and test drove the thing. It started fine and drove well. I agreed to come back the following week and close the deal on the truck.

He sent me a message back and said it wouldn't start. Must be the relay. One had already been replaced. Unfortunately he was going to be away for a bit but he promised me that his family would let me have access to the truck and he would order a new relay.

The relay came in today. I drove over and dropped the relay plate down. I plugged in the new relay (AC Delco, made in China) and I left the harness dangling because I had read about the runaway starter issue. Good thing I did. So I turned the key once. Nothing. Turned it again, nothing. Then I turned the key back off. After another couple of seconds I think I head a "snap" and then the starter starts turning.

I guess it wasn't connected to the flywheel because it just started spinning as fast as it could. I reached down and yanked the relay out. Starter stops. OK, now I smell smoke. I look under the hood and there's smoke coming up from the starter and over the wiring blocks (Related: is the top one 24v? or 12v?)

I was confused about why the starter wouldn't kick over until after the key was released. I touched the relay to the terminals with the key off and it tried to do it again. It nearly welded itself to the terminals.

Needless to say I've very skeptical about buying this truck. I saw some ugly looking wire splices, things that looked like 12v fusible links going to the relay resistor. Some wires had electrical tape on them. Should I run, run away or is there something likely "fixable" with this truck?

I have pictures of the starter, wiring busses etc. in case that helps. If so I'll upload them. Thanks to everyone in advance!! I really want a CUCV but not sure this one is going to pan out.
 

porkysplace

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mid- michigan

HelluvaEngineer

Active member
174
71
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Location
Atlanta, GA
A couple of follow-up questions


  1. Are those Chinese relays SO bad that they fry the first time? (Hey, sorry. I'm being honest, not trying to be a wisea%#.)
  2. Is the previously new starter likely already shot after running for 5 seconds?
  3. Why would it short with the key OFF?

Thanks for any replies. The seller has lowered the price enough for me to put some work into this. I took a few EE courses and have wired relays so no trouble putting the better one in but I'm scared to death there's a short somewhere in the circuit.

EDIT: sorry, long day. I guess the high current hot line of the relay would have to be connected to the battery and can't be switched. It just strikes me as odd that it would trigger when I didn't have it in the start position. Maybe the starter was locked up?
 
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porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,486
113
Location
mid- michigan
A couple of follow-up questions


  1. Are those Chinese relays SO bad that they fry the first time? (Hey, sorry. I'm being honest, not trying to be a wisea%#.)
  2. Is the previously new starter likely already shot after running for 5 seconds?
  3. Why would it short with the key OFF?

Thanks for any replies. The seller has lowered the price enough for me to put some work into this. I took a few EE courses and have wired relays so no trouble putting the better one in but I'm scared to death there's a short somewhere in the circuit.

EDIT: sorry, long day. I guess the high current hot line of the relay would have to be connected to the battery and can't be switched. It just strikes me as odd that it would trigger when I didn't have it in the start position. Maybe the starter was locked up?
It could have a bad starter solenoid also. You really need to read up on the helpful threads and do some testing , your going to need a digital muli-meter.
 

HelluvaEngineer

Active member
174
71
28
Location
Atlanta, GA
It could have a bad starter solenoid also. You really need to read up on the helpful threads and do some testing , your going to need a digital muli-meter.
Will do, thanks! I missed the topic about testing starters. I have a couple of multi-meters floating around.

Sounds like this is one of those take everything off, test everything, rewire anything that doesn't look right kinda projects.

EDIT: OK, not sure why I wasn't thinking about this...so the 24v relay just activates the solenoid, which I guess is 24v. So this could be a laggy solenoid or other fun gremlin. Hopefully that's correct.

EDIT2: Thanks again. Totally missed these links.
1 - You turn the key to the start position
2 - The starter relay energizes
3 - When the relay energizes, the contacts closes and allow 24v to travel to the starter solenoid
4 - The Starter solenoid energizes and the starter engages
 
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