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How many Qts. of brake fluid ?? Dot3 or Dot ??

Elohim1

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I have replaced my brake lines on the rear axles. I know the military used dot 5 and its expensive.

Can i use dot 3 ? What are the negative attributes?

How many quarts will it take to bleed and fill the system?

Thanks
Chris
 

Recovry4x4

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You could use DOT3. You would have to do a very complete and thorough bleed job being careful to purge not mix the DOT5 fluid. Suprlus DOT5 is is $30 a gallon from several sources. I would buy a gallon or two myslef just to avoid the possibiity of contaminated fluid. DOT3 eats paint and is hygroscopic whereas DOT5 is not. DOT5 is a little more of a pain to bleed, you have to bleed it slower since it can trap small air bubbles in the fliud.
Kenny
 

Elohim1

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Recovry4x4 said:
You could use DOT3. You would have to do a very complete and thorough bleed job being careful to purge not mix the DOT5 fluid. Suprlus DOT5 is is $30 a gallon from several sources. I would buy a gallon or two myslef just to avoid the possibiity of contaminated fluid. DOT3 eats paint and is hygroscopic whereas DOT5 is not. DOT5 is a little more of a pain to bleed, you have to bleed it slower since it can trap small air bubbles in the fliud.
Kenny

Who has dot 5 for $30 a gallon ?

What would happen if you mix Dot3 and Dot 5 ?
 

73m819

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i paid $99 a gal for dot 5 at napa, 30 sounds auful good, put me down for 2 gal
 

Recovry4x4

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Chris not sure of the long term effects but I've seen a guy add one when he was out of the other. Not something I would do. There is a bulletin on changing fluids and basically it explains to empty the master cylinder as best as you can and completely flush and bleed with the new fluid. Lots of folks sell the silicone but you can try Sam Werner in Tracy City TN or www.muttparts.com
Muttparts sells it for $29 a gallon. That reminds me, I have to order another gallon, I like having a sealed gallon and another open all the time.
Ron, got that?
 

Recovry4x4

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Chris, what brake juice did you end up using? Did you replace the steel lines or just the rubber?
 

fredrader

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He replaced all the steel lines from the Master Cyl back as well as both the rubber hoses in the rear....The reason he changed them is the metal lines were rusty and one failed while he was driving...He lost all the fluid and had no brakes..He made it home and decided that he would replace all the lines so it wouldn't happen again..The front lines look like they were replaced so he didn't change them.We blead everything real good and they work great..He can lock the wheels on the blacktop now ... :D
 

Recovry4x4

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That's great Fred! Did he use the DOT3 juice? Can't fool around with these brake systems, thats for sure. See my new ride?
 

fredrader

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Recovry4x4 said:
That's great Fred! Did he use the DOT3 juice? Can't fool around with these brake systems, thats for sure. See my new ride?
That is a COOL truck..When I grow up I want to get one of those to play with..Oh and He used Dot 3.. He has all new brake fluid now for less than $5..
 

Elohim1

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barefootrubi said:
Elohim1 said:
I replaced lines from master cylinder, back (both rear axles).

It only took less than 3 quarts to flush system.
did you make the hard lines or buy them?
I used 30" steel line on one side and 40" steel line on the other side. The 40" was pushing it , causing me to relocate where the "T" mounts by about 2".
These lines were 1/4" O.D.

Carquest made up the rubber lines and I think they were about 27" longand had a fixed fitting on one end with a swivel on the other. These lines looked to be originally 3/16" I.D., however I used 1/4 I.D." since that was the smallest carquest stocked.

A 60" joined to a 40" steel line was used from the "T" up where the Master cylinder connects to the "T" where the rubber lines connect. This line was 5/16" O.D.

Note :The steel lines are measured by O.D. and rubber by I.D.

Took Fred and I about a hour total to bleed, once the lines were changed.
 
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