Gypsyman
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For those that find themselves with a damaged power wire on their in-tank pump this may be helpful.
In my never ending hunt for spare parts to keep on the shelf I ran across a good deal on a NOS Olympic Controls in-tank fuel pump. Ordered it up and waited for it to arrive. Upon delivery I found damage to the power wire due to the lack of packing material used in the box. The power wire was sheared off cleanly at the pump connector. Not even enough wire showing to make a repair. After speaking with the seller they offered a large discount if I wanted to attempt the repair myself. I agreed and we settled on a price.
A quick e-mail to Matt at OCC and I had a new power wire assembly on the way. I had read in old threads that the female receptacle on the pump had to be cut/mangled/pealed to get the wire connector out but I was determined to do this as cleanly as possible. I started by drilling the dimples on the female connector shell. After an initial attempt I found that a 3/16" bit took out just enough of the dimple to free up the connector.
Not knowing what type of connector was used I assumed that it was a thin metal Douglas connector so I was concerned that I might break through and damage to pin on the inside. It turns out that my concerns were unwarranted. The connector on the end of the wire is solid steel so the chances of damage are all but zero.
After drilling the three dimples out all it took was firm up pressure while rotating slightly and the connector came free. I deburred the three holes and the pump was ready for the new power wire. For some reason the damaged power wire that was on the pump was extremely long. This ended up being a good thing as I will be able to salvage more than enough length to use it on the Parker 1C20-10 that I also have on the shelf.
Reassembly will be as simple as inserting the new connector fully and recreating the three dimple with a spring loaded center punch with the tip rounded off. This should make a factory looking dimple when all is said and done.
Pictures for reference.
In my never ending hunt for spare parts to keep on the shelf I ran across a good deal on a NOS Olympic Controls in-tank fuel pump. Ordered it up and waited for it to arrive. Upon delivery I found damage to the power wire due to the lack of packing material used in the box. The power wire was sheared off cleanly at the pump connector. Not even enough wire showing to make a repair. After speaking with the seller they offered a large discount if I wanted to attempt the repair myself. I agreed and we settled on a price.
A quick e-mail to Matt at OCC and I had a new power wire assembly on the way. I had read in old threads that the female receptacle on the pump had to be cut/mangled/pealed to get the wire connector out but I was determined to do this as cleanly as possible. I started by drilling the dimples on the female connector shell. After an initial attempt I found that a 3/16" bit took out just enough of the dimple to free up the connector.
Not knowing what type of connector was used I assumed that it was a thin metal Douglas connector so I was concerned that I might break through and damage to pin on the inside. It turns out that my concerns were unwarranted. The connector on the end of the wire is solid steel so the chances of damage are all but zero.
After drilling the three dimples out all it took was firm up pressure while rotating slightly and the connector came free. I deburred the three holes and the pump was ready for the new power wire. For some reason the damaged power wire that was on the pump was extremely long. This ended up being a good thing as I will be able to salvage more than enough length to use it on the Parker 1C20-10 that I also have on the shelf.
Reassembly will be as simple as inserting the new connector fully and recreating the three dimple with a spring loaded center punch with the tip rounded off. This should make a factory looking dimple when all is said and done.
Pictures for reference.
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