Why are you running wires into the door?
Your really don’t want to have those stupid door speakers, the fire into you and not UP TO YOU! Get something like the q-form kick panel mounts, they are made for the geometry of our trucks, that's what I have and they rock!
Link to kick panel pods
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ZTbmb6uopTY/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?I=044c10061&search=044C10061
This is how I am doing it:
running street wires 14g over rubber spray coated floor, covering wires in aluminum tape, then comes the LMC thermal matt, then the LMC sound deading mat, then the carpet (front half), the speakers in the dash...you can go junk yard swimming, or get the brackets for the 3.5s from crutchfiled for like 14 bucks, I also got the center speaker from LMC truck (it is the size of the OEM front middle speaker, it just has to 3.5s), I ditched the generic coax 3.5s to match them to the other 2 infinity 3.5s.
For power to deck pwr windows/locks blah blah blah, I ran a 0g wire off my front batt (using a tsunami terminal, as I used for all the batt. terminal connections) that 0g wire goes to a distribution block under my dash pad, from there I have a 10g output to a Painless Wiring circuit isolator (a extra fuse box with hot ignition and constant outputs), I fabricated a mount for that right under my OEM fuse panel, so it looks factory. This circuit isolator also powers my deck.
In my case I also have a 4g wire coming off the distrub. block going to my amp and another 4g going to an inverter under my dash pad that provides 750W a flat box that takes the place on my grille of where my NATO slave jumper was.
.....Well I think that about covers my wiring setup.
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}