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Just bought a M1028 and having one starting problem

Elohim1

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After the truck has been started and warmed up and then you shut it off and let it sit for about 1/2 hour , it will not start unless you give it a shot of starting fluid.

When the engine has set the 1/2 hour, and is still warm, the "wait" light does not come on.


Anyone have any suggestions or trouble shooting actions I could take?
 

GM72K10

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Had problems with my M1028a1 also, changed the glow plug card (had put in a bad one from a junk yard but didn't know it was bad) and the relay. Now it works fine. Reading and REreading the TMs helps too. good luck.
 

acetomatoco

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A warm engine should not need to be re preheated... Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me...or the leaky o ring in the fuel pressure switch which has been debated to death on every forum in the universe... Look for a porous fuel line in the frame where the two sections join along the rail...behind a cover where you can't see it... Take the line off the delivery side of the mechanical fuel pump and see what pressure and flow you get there when cranking...and as stated above... mount the Manuals beside your bed and spend some time with them every evening .... happy reading.
 

mangus580

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Have someone turn the key to the run position while you are under the hood. You should hear the IP click. Alternativly, you can turn the key to run, and pull the pink wire off the IP to listen for it.

If you really think the glow plugs not coming on is the problem, look up the manual glow plug setup in the Tech Article section, and do a temporary setup, so you can try it. This will tell you if that is your issue....
 

CCATLETT1984

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if its when the engine is kinda warm, your coolant temp sensor on the drivers side of the block might be going you can try unplugging it and see if it helps, that would force the gp's to come on everytime the engine is started, since the card would think the engine is cold. its a std. part to replace.
 

BKinzey

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Holy Moly! Somebody speak up! :shock: :D

DO NOT use starting fluid! Much Big Chance of Boom-Boom!

Seriously. You can damage your engine and yourself. Ether is for gas engines not diesel.

If you need something WD-40 is recommended 8)
 

Elohim1

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BKinzey said:
Holy Moly! Somebody speak up! :shock: :D

DO NOT use starting fluid! Much Big Chance of Boom-Boom!

Seriously. You can damage your engine and yourself. Ether is for gas engines not diesel.

If you need something WD-40 is recommended 8)
The starting fluid says for gasoline or diesel engines. Is this a NO NO ???
 

mangus580

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Biggest issue with starting fluid, is with functioning glow plugs....

Your 6.2 should start without starting fluid, if it doesnt, there is a problem. If all else fails, 'Pure Silicone Spray' is one of the best/safest substitutes.
 

Elohim1

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BKinzey said:
What's the list of contents on the can? If it says "ether" it's a definite no.
Pyroil is the name. for gasoline and diesel engines, says the can.

Contains,

Heptane, Diethyl Ether, Carbon Dioxide.
 

ken

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Like mike said. If the glow plugs come on with ether in any form you may get a nice poping sound. If so grab your tool box and start pulling the heads so you can see how much dammage it did. Starting fluid can only be used when the glowplugs don't work. I sudjest WD40 or something else with propane as the propellent. If the engine is at least 100 deg it will probally start with out any help.
 

Elohim1

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ken said:
Like mike said. If the glow plugs come on with ether in any form you may get a nice poping sound. If so grab your tool box and start pulling the heads so you can see how much dammage it did. Starting fluid can only be used when the glowplugs don't work. I sudjest WD40 or something else with propane as the propellent. If the engine is at least 100 deg it will probally start with out any help.
Thanks for the Heads up.
When I used the starting fluid with Ether, the engine was warm.
The wait light didnt come on, so I am assuming the glow plugs did not come on.

When the engine is cold, glow plus come on and it starts fine.
I have not been able to duplicate the starting problem yet.

The previous owner may be right, it could be the solenoid in the Injector pump acting up.

I am not sure I like that Mechanical fuel pump.

Would an electric one be better?
 

Michael

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WD-40 no longer has propane as a propellant so it won't work. Either is only contraindicated with working glow plugs. I would only use it in an emergency. I have used both either and silicon spray with good results. A little bit of either goes a long way and you can damage your engine with it.
 

Michael

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As to the original post. Most of the threads I have read about the fuel pressure switch seem to indicate that it takes time for the leaking switch to cause problems. So it would be the reverse of your situation. But it is a cheep easy fix you might try before you rebuild your pump. I just had to put a new electric fuel pump on my 98 GMC with the 6.5l and it only has 40,000 miles on it. I think I would lean towards the mechanical fuel pump. Both work all the time and both wear out The electric might be a little easier for the do it yourself-er to fix.

Let us know how it turns out.
 

mangus580

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Lean towards the mechanical, as you dont know how much stuff you would have to do to put an electric one in....

If its the shutoff solenoid, they are pretty easy to change. My suggestion, is to bypass the temperature switch. As stated above, its probably not letting the plugs come on when they should be.
 

CCATLETT1984

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Michael said:
As to the original post. Most of the threads I have read about the fuel pressure switch seem to indicate that it takes time for the leaking switch to cause problems. So it would be the reverse of your situation. But it is a cheep easy fix you might try before you rebuild your pump. I just had to put a new electric fuel pump on my 98 GMC with the 6.5l and it only has 40,000 miles on it. I think I would lean towards the mechanical fuel pump. Both work all the time and both wear out The electric might be a little easier for the do it yourself-er to fix.

Let us know how it turns out.
an electric pump would be horrible to mount unless you mounted it towards the rear of the truck (would be easier on the pump as well) since there just isnt the room anywhere near the front of the truck. the electric pump would flow through the mechanical pump, but if the rubber diaphram starts to disintegrate then your in for some major issues.
 
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