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Locating a part for the wrecker

Mullaney

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I have looked, Oshkosh doesn't have any, Eastern Surpluss has none, both show on their sites, but not in stock. Who else might have the rear winch socket?

I did put up a parts wanted ad.

View attachment 919918
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Croby sells these "wire rope fittings" and their name carries weight... The big plus to using these things is that they are rated at 100% of the cable capacity when installed correctly. Often times they are called "swage sockets".


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Last edited:

G744

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Those Crosby's are not the same, they need to be permanently swaged.

The one used on most military winches is a screw-together job, with a bronze insert that supports the individual strands. A bench vice and a quality open-end wrench are all one needs to remove/install those.

Something to be aware of, is wire rope comes in left-lay & right-lay. ID what you have B4 ordering...
 

WillWagner

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Croby sells these "wire rope fittings" and their name carries weight... The big plus to using these things is that they are rated at 100% of the cable capacity when installed correctly. Often times they are called "swage sockets".


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I did look at those, and they requier a piece on the end of the cable to lock it in. There is a liquid that can be mixed and poured onto the socket. This will be a last resort. But thank you!
 

WillWagner

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Those Crosby's are not the same, they need to be permanently swaged.

The one used on most military winches is a screw-together job, with a bronze insert that supports the individual strands. A bench vice and a quality open-end wrench are all one needs to remove/install those.

Something to be aware of, is wire rope comes in left-lay & right-lay. ID what you have B4 ordering...
This is what we have, didn't know about the different lay. I do have a p/n. I was going to try Memphis. I have not looked out back, there might be a winch or some cable just baking in the sun. I'll check that tomorrow.
 

WillWagner

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I'll snap a pic tomorrow. The truck was a NG unit, new 1953, overhaul at TEAD in '73, delivered to NG sometime in '74, the Museum acquired it around '79-80. NG unit made it look nice, but FILLED it with Bondo. Pieces parts missing, the rear winch station clutch lever at the trans, vice, some little parts, some of the BII but some duplicates. Both winches were run up into the fairleads. Front sheared the pin, the winch does indeed work, used a bolt to unwind it by cranking the engine with the front winch in R and was able to get it unwound enough to pull the rope out and free up the level wind. Still need to unspool it after it leaves the shop to get rid of the rats nest AND find a shear pin. The rear was run up too. It was hard into the rollers. Again, able to put in R, crank, and pull out with a forklift far enough to free up the level wind. That's where I found the level wind lock sheared. I think that happened when the cable pulled tight. The cable end was so tight it bent the nut that runs down into the end and split the nut. It also flat spotted a part of the end so a new nut will not go in. I cut 2 feet from the cable today so I could get the end up in a vice to take it apart and see if it was reusable. Took a 36 inch pipe wrench, B'Laster and a 6 foot cheater to break it loose. Rolled the threads on the nut due to the flat spot.

Now, IF I could find a nut, I could maybe fix the threads on the end and reuse the insert. When I left today, I had soaked the cable/insert so tomorrow I might be able to separate the nut/cable/insert
 

zebedee

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ESMET is the name you should be looking for. Commercially available but not "Harbour Freight or Tractor Supply" cheap. This has been covered in old threads in the wrecker forums - inc tips on how to install etc.
 

WillWagner

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Following are some pictures of the cable end. I slpit the nut just to get it apart just because curiosity kills me.

You can see on the nut that it is bent and has been split through the hex for a long time. You can also see that the nut is bent as well as the wedge. The wedge halves are bent and twisted. The picture of the clevis, where my finger is, is the location of the flat spot.

It was also assembled wrong, well, wrong from how I was taught to do these. I was taught that the center/core wire should protrude at least the width of the core wire out of the end of the wedge. As you can see in the 1st image, the outer wire is shy of the end of the wedge and what I didn't take a picture of, is that the core wire was 1/4 inch inside the wedge. I guess this could have been done when the cable was pulled up into the fairlead though, there was a bunch of tension on the cable when I released it.

And for those of you that haven't seen one of these, the clevis is apx 7 inches long, the hex on the nut is 1 1/2 inches across the flats and the cable itself is 3/4 inch diameter. It took a bunch of force to do what is done to this part.

end.jpgend1.jpgend2.jpgend3.jpgend4.jpgend5.jpgend6.jpg
 

87cr250r

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These are called swageless cable ends. There are a few manufacturers that make them.

The poured liquid sockets are called spelter sockets. Normally they are filled with molten zinc but there are epoxy compounds that require a little less skill. The advantage of using zinc is that it can be melted out and the socket reused.
 
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