M1008 hitch install.

[Dillard88]

I want to install a legit hitch on my truck. I’m currently running the receiver bolted to bumper but want something more stout.

is class 4 enough or should I go with class 5?

the most I’ll ever tow is a dump trailer or skid steer and will install a brake controller too.

also am I better off using uhaul for the install or doing it myself? I’ve read the threads about notching the pintle framing, is it better to remove that completely? Thanks gents

 

[cucvrus]

I have done a few of these on the CUCV trucks. If it were me I would purchase one and fabricate what I needed to retain the brackets in stock form. Most of the ones I installed were for paying customers or on trucks that were never going to air lifted again. So to make it simple I just eliminated all the hardware and brackets and used the pintle hook area as a license plate holder like stock trucks and bolted on a stock K30 Class 3 receiver. Anything heavier then that and you are over working and overloading the truck. Do as you wish.

I done 2 Class 3 hitches on my own CUCV M1028's that I retained everything in place and I recall it was quite busy back under there and getting the spare tire in and out was a real chore. I always like the WARNING in the TM operators manual. Keep clear of spare tire when removing or replacing. It could cause injury to personnel. That is an under statement.

Did you ever try and get one back in that rack again under the truck. Fun times. The decision is yours. It depends on what you want to retain and what you can live without. Good Luck. The hitches I bought and just bolted on required no drilling. They worked great but required unbolting a few brackets and cutting them t fit in place.

 

[Dillard88]

I have done a few of these on the CUCV trucks. If it were me I would purchase one and fabricate what I needed to retain the brackets in stock form. Most of the ones I installed were for paying customers or on trucks that were never going to air lifted again. So to make it simple I just eliminated all the hardware and brackets and used the pintle hook area as a license plate holder like stock trucks and bolted on a stock K30 Class 3 receiver. Anything heavier then that and you are over working and overloading the truck. Do as you wish. I done 2 Class 3 hitches on my own CUCV M1028's that I retained everything in place and I recall it was quite busy back under there and getting the spare tire in and out was a real chore. I always like the WARNING in the TM operators manual. Keep clear of spare tire when removing or replacing. It could cause injury to personnel. That is an under statement. Did you ever try and get one back in that rack again under the truck. Fun times. The decision is yours. It depends on what you want to retain and what you can live without. Good Luck. The hitches I bought and just bolted on required no drilling. They worked great but required unbolting a few brackets and cutting them t fit in place.

do you recommend curt, drawtite, or any particular brand? Thanks

 

[cucvrus]

That choice is up to you. I am not the one that owns the truck. If you don't want the pintle hook, air lift shackles and tie downs get a HD receiver and install it. Loosing the spare tire carrier from under the bed is no real loss. That is a real PITA to get in and out. Especially when you need it. Good place to store a wheel that you want rusty and flat when the time comes to use it. All brands are equally as good. Get one you like and want to install. I prefer the one piece welded models over the multi piece models. Seems stronger to me. Take Care.

 

[Tinstar]

do you recommend curt, drawtite, or any particular brand? Thanks

HDRH25122 | B&W Trailer Hitches

www.bwtrailerhitches.com

Made in USA.
Most of the others are China.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

also am I better off using uhaul for the install

Well, you'd probably be better off using U-Haul if the only alternative is burning your truck to the ground.

Otherwise, go to U-Haul for a trailer hitch as often as you go to Midas for transmission work.


Here and there, you might find a U-Haul franchise that employs people who:

1. Know what they are doing.
2. Care about what they are doing.
3. Are allowed the time needed to do a good job.

But then, here and there, you might find a pearl in a garbage dump, too.

There are a few threads around here where people have installed trailer hitches without butchering their truck.

It's your truck.

 

[nyoffroad]

Here and there, you might find a U-Haul franchise that employs people who:

1. Know what they are doing.
2. Care about what they are doing.
3. Are allowed the time needed to do a good job.

I doubt that! I've had many dealings with U-haul and have decided I will NEVER go back to them for anything!
I've used Curt (or is it Kurt?) hitches and installed them myself, easy and cost effective. As a bonus the powder coating seems to hold up quite well on them too.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I doubt that! I've had many dealings with U-haul and have decided I will NEVER go back to them for anything!

Hey, I mentioned it as a theoretical possiblty. I mean, it could happen.

I've used Curt (or is it Kurt?) hitches and installed them myself, easy and cost effective. As a bonus the powder coating seems to hold up quite well on them too.

Yep. It's really not difficult on most vehicles. I can't imagine paying someone else to do that job.

 

[Dillard88]

I ended up with a class 4 from etrailer. I don't intend to push the truck too hard but wanted a more beefy hitch just in case. I did have to notch the tow hook brackets but wasn't too bad.

Now its time for 7 pin round wire harness with trailer brake mod.

 

[Keith_J]

I went with a class V only because I needed weight distribution. This converts tongue weight into a force couple (moment) right at the receiver tube.

Kind of elegant overkill with air spring assist in the rear of the 1031. I removed the overload springs and have a much better ride.

 

[rspring]

Same dilemma. I want to keep the factory tie downs / lift clevis and factory bumper. The truck is lifted so using the factory pintle and swapping to a pintle hitch ball won't work. I purchased a draw-tite ultra frame from Etrailer and it's not going to work while keeping the rest. Any suggestions? I need to be able to tow 5K. I know it's heresy but the truck now has a Duramax L5P and Allison 6 speed so go power is no problem. Stopping is also no problem with other upgrades. I just need a receiver so I can put a drop hitch in. Thoughts?

 

[NDT]

Here is what I did, see post 3:

class 4 trailer hitch m1008

Does anyone have a class 4 hitch on there m1008 ? and if you do,, brand and part # please and can you still use the factory tire carrier ?

www.steelsoldiers.com