M1009 Engine woes

vwbusman66

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On a wild hair, I decided to buy my first V8, first square body truck, and first diesel, a kinda rusty 1984 M1009.
The owner had a mechanic install a surplus J code engine in 2008 after the original "died" and also "converted" the truck to 12V in a very poor manner.

I brought the truck home and connected a starter switch and a fresh battery and got the truck to crank reasonably well. The prior mechanic replaced the glow plug system with a switch and solenoid. The truck refuses to start.

I have 12.51V at:
The starter ground
Engine ground
Fuel solenoid
Cold start solenoid
Glow plugs

I cracked an injector line and was able to get a dribble of fuel out of the line while cranking, so I suspect I should have fuel?
It is possible the glow plugs are thoroughly shot.


Later that night (2 hours later), I returned to the truck to try and start the truck with the glow plugs off and a small amount of ether. I am aware of the dangers of ether, bending rods, and the like. I was sure to let the glow plugs cool down to prevent random and spontaneous combustion. After a hit of either in each intake plenum/half, I cranked the engine and noticed a small amount of smoke coming out of the intake and a copious amount of smoke coming out of the oil fill cap. The engine would not even act like it wanted to start.

Am I correct in assuming that the previous owner ether'd the poo out of the engine and bent the rods badly enough to create horrid blow by and severely low compression?

James
 

AECS

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That's a possibility. Run a compression test. Also if you cracked the fuel lines, should have gotten more than a dribble of fuel.
 

Hasdrubal

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When I bled my injectors I cracked the lines, pulled the glow plugs so its easier on the starter, put a piece of cardboard along each inner fender. Then cranked..the fuel spray shows up well on the cardboard, you should get a good wet spray pattern, you can see if any injectors still have air, and its easy to clean up.
 

Tinstar

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Ether needs an ignition source.
Cold glow plugs and cylinder compression alone will not ignite it.

I wouldn’t use it, but especially not a separate shot in each cylinder.
That probably would have destroyed your engine if it did light off.

Just a short shot in the air intake opening if you must use it.
 

ken

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When bleeding the lines, just crack them open. 1/4 turn is plenty. If you get just a dribble of fuel out, you need to bleed it again. It should be almost a steady seep. Also when bleeding the lines do it with the throttle wide open. This will remove the air much quicker with LESS STRESS on the starter. I would bet you still have air in the system. A quick shot of starter fluid won't always start it. It will sometimes dissipate before you walk around to the cab and turn the key. You may need someone else to turn the key while you spray it. Again very little. With too much you can get a cylinder to fire before the piston gets to the top. This can break the crankshaft. Don't ask how I know that. It's a sore point. LOL.
 

vwbusman66

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Kenny and others- thank you for the wisdom!

I bought 8 AC60g plugs today as I removed two on the motor and found Autolites installed. I plan to remove all eight plugs tomorrow, jam the throttle open, and thoroughly bleed the lines. Then, I will install the new plugs and try to start it.

I may also try and inspect the shut off solenoid as it may be sticking.

Many thanks
James
 

eme411

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does the truck have a block heater? all my trucks have them , good way to get around a glow system that does not work , just starting on a M-1010 that is a wiring mess , glow system bypassed with button and I think all the plugs are shot , but not a problem to fire up , just plug it in,
 

Drock

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Have you tried jumping the glow plug solenoid? That way your basically hot wiring the glow plugs to force them to work. when you do it just hold it for 10 seconds at a time. Either is bad news.
 

vwbusman66

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Kingsville, MD
Today I:
Removed all 8 plugs and cranked until I thought there was sufficient fuel- I still think there's not enough coming through the lines
Installed the new AC60g's
Removed the starter and cleaned the contacts- the solenoid/starter is shot (more money in a questionable motor in a crusty truck)
It will now puff smoke out of the oil filler cap without any kind of starting aid aside from the glow plugs- I suppose that's progress?
 

Barrman

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I have held off commenting for a few days now because it seems you are just stumbling around with multiple problems asking us to help with different ones at random. Once you mentioned the starter issues. I had to jump in.

The first thing to do when trying to figure out anything on the 6.2 engine is to have a pair of fully charged and load tested batteries along with a good starter. Gasoline engines can get by with 60-80 rpm from the starter motor. Indirect injection diesel engines need to have 150-200 rpm from the starter or they probably won't start. If you have been trying to bleed the injection lines and start the engine with a slow turning starter. It will probably never work.

There is also a wonderful trouble shooting guide in the -20 manual that takes you through if this happens, then do this kind of stuff for every system on the truck. It walks you through everything you have been asking. In the order it should be tested.
 

vwbusman66

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Installed a rebuilt starter and after about a minute total of on and off cranking, it fired right up. I suspect a combination of air in the fuel lines and water in fuel was causing the no start and suspicious smoke.

It runs great and fires right up every time now! Thanks for the help all!
 
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