m1009 manual glow plug switch

[doghead]

bat+---------relay pos-------relay neg -------- Switch-------- Ground


Bat+ -------switch---------relay pos---------relay neg------Ground


Both work. One switches battery +, the other switches battery - to activate the relay.

The stock controller switches the negative source, to activate the relay. Your push button does as well.

 

[1dcorbin]

Thanks! I'll give her a short (knowing myself) - er shot.

 

[Sharecropper]

"I don't know why everyone tries to make this so complicated. All that is required is provide a ground for the system. That is what the controller card does." - Warthog

 

[1dcorbin]

The GP controller bypass with the momentary push button switch works great in my case! Thank you for your help and your patience!

So for warm starts, I now manually actuate the glow plug relay via my momentary push button. I glow for a few seconds and my M1009 catches on the first revolution. For the cold starts, I simply allow the GP controller to go through its normal cycle and again she comes right to life.

Now for my comments / questions...

Since this set-up works for my particular conditions, does this mean that I have either a defective coolant temperature sensor and / or a defective glow plug controller?

 

[doghead]

Great to hear it does help!

I'm not sure what it proves.

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

Now for my comments / questions...

Since this set-up works for my particular conditions, does this mean that I have either a defective coolant temperature sensor and / or a defective glow plug controller?

Glad the manual switch fixed your problem!
I would guess it's one or both of those things. Could also be a busted wire, bad ground, corrosion on a connection. Guess you wouldn't really know unless you test the temp sensor and controller card.

 

[soulbrojosh]

So after reading this thread, i have but one small question... if my GP wait light stays on after the engine is running, am i harming my 1009? The wait light comes on when i turn the ignition on, then goes out. I then start my truck, but the wait light come back on again. If I install a manual GP switch and bypass the GP control module will the wait light still come on?

 

[llong66]

Sounds like you might have found a solution but when I got my M1008 I had similar warm starting issues, it ended up being the injector pump timing, once it was set correctly, ires right up every time, warm or cold.

 

[marand9199]

This all sounds pretty cut and dry even for the us electrically challenged such as myself. Thanks guys!
The only question I have is what specs should I look for when buying my switch?

 

[doghead]

10 amps or less, your simply closing the relay coil circuit.

 

[M1009 NEWBEE 2013]

Also make sure its momentary "on" switch not "off". If you were to purchase momentary off switch, it would always be on until you pushed the button. Not good..

 

[marand9199]

Another couple of questions if you guys don’t mind.

While installing my GP bypass and looking at the electrical diagram on this thread it looks to me that my Pink & Blue wires on the GP relay are switched. (See attached photo of my relay) The Pink and Blue wires however, are in the correct position attached to the circuit board under the dash. It’s been like that for 3 years since I bought my M1009 and has been working fine but the relay makes a lot of fast clicking sounds for about 30 seconds after a cold start up.

Question 1: What problems can this cause if any?

Question 2: When I wire my bypass switch as shown in the diagram (batteries disconnected) I get conductivity through the momentary switch in both positions, on & off. I just added the wire to the relay for the switch. Am I supposed to remove the Blue wire also? I tried switching the Blue & Pink wires on the relay but there was no change in conductivity. I pulled the switch and without the leads hooked up it checks out fine.

Any suggestion?

 

[Warthog]

The terminals for the pink and blue wires are just connections for the internal coil. It makes no difference as to which connector you use. The blue wire is aground that is controlled by the GP card. You can leave it installed.

I would double check your new switch to make sure it is a "normally open" switch.

 

[marand9199]

Thanks Doghead,
After studying this one line diagram for about 30 minutes, I realized you can get continuity between the terminals on the switch. I was confusing continuity with volts. With everything wired the way you described I check for 12 volts to the glow plugs and the switch works just as it should.
I don’t remember wish post I got this diagram off of but, this is a lot easier to read then the schematic drawing for us non-electrical guys. Much appreciated whoever posted it.
Now, if you could only help me find my 3/8 wrench I drop somewhere behind the motor. lol
Thanks again to all, you guys are great!

 

[marand9199]

All most forgot...Thanks to you also Warthog!

 

[M1009_SPAIN]

I know this topic has been covered a lot, but when you make the ground cable-push button switch and the other end to the solenoid relay pin where the blue cable from the card goes, is that correct?

Or do you have to directly jumper the blue wire on the card and take one wire to the relay and another to ground?

If the switch worked, the wait light should come on, right?

If the light does not come on, is there a fault in the pink and dark blue wiring of the bulb?

thanks