M1009 rusted front roof corner

[lavarok]

So I decided to fix a little rust problem on one of my M1009s.

Ugh! Any advice for this repair?

Anyone have a donor front roof corner?

The bondo is not my handiwork. I found it like this once I started sanding.

 

[Warthog]

I have a 1009 shell I will be hauling to the scraper soon. How big of piece do you need?

Devilman did the same thing with his 1009 build. And posted pictures.

 

[lavarok]

I have a 1009 shell I will be hauling to the scraper soon. How big of piece do you need?

I'll take a few photos with a ruler and some markings to give you a better idea. Thanks.

Devilman did the same thing with his 1009 build. And posted pictures.

His build thread is my inspiration!

 

[lavarok]

I used a sharpie to trace my intended work area. I'd like about 3" more than pictured along the windshield side to be safe, trailing down to 2-3" more on the door side.

 

[lavarok]

A few more, looking at these I do think 3" more than where I drew my line would be perfect. I am certainly not a master welder, so this will be challenging to say the least.

 

[JDToumanian]

I am certainly not a master welder, so this will be challenging to say the least.

I'm not that great either.... If I were doing this repair, I would prep the parts, have them clean and fitted exactly, and take it to a good welder (a friend of mine) who would do a 1st class job of it in 10 minutes.

I've never understood why CUCVs rust out in that spot, from the inside out...

Jon

 

[Warthog]

I'll get it cut out and shipped your way. It will be a couple of days.

 

[lavarok]

I'm not that great either.... If I were doing this repair, I would prep the parts, have them clean and fitted exactly, and take it to a good welder (a friend of mine) who would do a 1st class job of it in 10 minutes.

I've never understood why CUCVs rust out in that spot, from the inside out...

Jon

Good advice, I may do the same.

As for why they rust here, I suspect the seam in the drip rail allows moisture into the corner and the whole area above and along the door opening. The seams on my drip rails need to be resealed; as well there are a few small holes along the seam I need to fill. When I cut it open, I was planning to spray some ospho into the crevices.

I'll get it cut out and shipped your way. It will be a couple of days.

THANK YOU!

 

[lavarok]

Today's update.

 

[doghead]

Hmm, no drip rails on an M1008. Haven't noticed the corner rusting out like that either. Interesting.

 

[Warthog]

Hmm, no drip rails on an M1008. Haven't noticed the corner rusting out like that either. Interesting.

I have seen a M1008 sitting at the GSA Forestry Yard that had the passenger cab corner rusted out.

What is it about the passenger side rusting?

 

[lavarok]

Check your drip rails! I used a small screwdriver to poke around and found a few more holes I need to fix. I'm thinking either some metal filler, epoxy, or body solder. I haven't decided which route I want to go.

I sprayed some Eastwood "Internal Frame Coating" into the holes and larger opening I cut for the panel Warthog sent me. The stuff is thinner than I expected and the little 18" hose kit it comes with makes spraying into cavities and recesses very easy.

I may buy some "Heavy Duty Anti Rust" and spray it inside the roof once the holes are plugged up. I could drill some access holes from inside and plug them later if i go that route. I may also be able to use the hole where the dome light would go and just recover it when finished. Choices, choices, choices....

I can tell you there is a thin layer of filler or body sealer in between the panels that form the drip rail and edges. Once moisture gets inside, I think it wicks its way in deeper. When I am all done patching the metal, I will use body sealer ( also from Eastwood ) prior to painting.

 

[maddawg308]

You might also want to put a nice thick bead of silicone or bedliner in the drip rail after you paint it. Put the bead down, then use a junk spoon or your thumb to smooth the bead into the bottom of the drip rail. Should help wick the moisture away from the drip rail area, and prevent further rust in the future.

 

[2deuce]

Silicone attracts water. It seals out water but seems to keep the area wet at the same time. I would not use silicone.

 

[lavarok]

I dropped the truck off to have it welded today. I decided to leave this job to a pro.

I should have it back Thursday 6/9.

I plan to do a complete repaint inside and out this weekend. While I am at it I want to repaint the outside of my M1010 and my new M1031. It should be a productive weekend if the rain stays away.

 

[lavarok]

Photo update.

 

[lavarok]

Oh yea, last photo for today....windshield installed! My buddy Brian that works for Safelite came by and reinstalled the window for me. Nothing like having a PRO save you time.

Tomorrow I need to finish re-seaming and then paint. The Eastwood "Brushable" sealer is far from brushable in FL heat. It makes a huge sticky mess that looks like ****! The regular tube sealer seems to seam well. It is like a caulk that skins over QUICK. I think a few applications and it will be perfect. One bead and smooth and your done until it dries unless you want it to look like crap.

I was considering ordering the two part "2k self leveling sealer" but not sure I want to spend the extra cash and TIME. My body shop guy did recommend it so we will see. At least the windshield is in and some basic sealer has been applied.

It is weatherproof!

 

[SPCHowe]

Looks great! Im going to check my drip rails in the morning to make sure mine aren't getting rusty. I don't like drip rails, never really understood the point of them plus they only seem to get rusty

 

[4x4 Forever]

Excellent work and information lavarok, thanks for sharing!

 

[Warthog]

Great job. Glad the corner piece worked out for you.