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m1009 Slip yoke eliminator

Gunfighter1

New member
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Location
AZ
Im in the parts collection phase of doing an axle swap and considering doing a SYE on my m1009 when i put the 14 bolt in the rear. I figured while im at it i may as well get a new drive shaft made with 1 ton u joints. Has anyone used this kit http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/SYE_Kits_$375.htm Looks like you have to drill and tap the output shaft to mount the flange. The only other SYE kit i saw was tom woods and it was close to a grand but replaced the whole output shaft and rear housing. Anyone have any experiences with this type of setup? Seems like drilling and tapping the outputshaft would need to be done pretty precisely but they state that you dont have to remove the tcase to do it. Im not quite sure how id feel with a drilling into the output shaft with a power drill and trying to get it straight. Any other options out there that dont break the bank?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Im in the parts collection phase of doing an axle swap and considering doing a SYE on my m1009 when i put the 14 bolt in the rear. I figured while im at it i may as well get a new drive shaft made with 1 ton u joints. Has anyone used this kit http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/SYE_Kits_$375.htm Looks like you have to drill and tap the output shaft to mount the flange. The only other SYE kit i saw was tom woods and it was close to a grand but replaced the whole output shaft and rear housing. Anyone have any experiences with this type of setup? Seems like drilling and tapping the outputshaft would need to be done pretty precisely but they state that you dont have to remove the tcase to do it. Im not quite sure how id feel with a drilling into the output shaft with a power drill and trying to get it straight. Any other options out there that dont break the bank?
It should be pretty straight forward. The output shaft should already have a machine mark on the end that would help align the drill bit. Using the new flange as a guide you should be able to drill a really straight hole in the output shaft of the transfer case. Then tapping the hole straight is no problem as the tap will follow the hole. You probably will need to use a "Cobalt" drill bit and a good hardened tap.
 

Sergeant1983

Member
146
1
18
Location
Memphis TN
When drilling hard metal like that do not apply force and keep the drill straight/perpendicular to th surface being drilled. If you break the drill bit off in mild steel it's tough to pick out; in harden steel it's a real bugger. I know this from experience. Same thing with the tap. Use plenty of oil and back the tap out, clean the hole and continue tapping several times. A broken tap is worse than a broken drill bit.
 

Gunfighter1

New member
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Location
AZ
Thanks for the advice guys. I was thinking it was something a machine shop would have to do. Ill make sure i get some good bits and taps when i do it. Next question is would this put any more strain on the output shaft than a normal driveline with a slip yoke? Seems all the kits with shorter shafts are supported by a bearing as well.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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376
83
Location
Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Thanks for the advice guys. I was thinking it was something a machine shop would have to do. Ill make sure i get some good bits and taps when i do it. Next question is would this put any more strain on the output shaft than a normal driveline with a slip yoke?
No I believe that it removes some of the strain because the slip yolk must push sideways and in and deal with the u - joints wobble, the fixed yolk just has to deal with the u - joints and not the sliding.
Seems all the kits with shorter shafts are supported by a bearing as well.
Not sure what you are asking here? The output shaft of the transfer case?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,071
2,388
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Thanks for the advice guys. I was thinking it was something a machine shop would have to do. Ill make sure i get some good bits and taps when i do it. Next question is would this put any more strain on the output shaft than a normal driveline with a slip yoke? Seems all the kits with shorter shafts are supported by a bearing as well.
The slip yoke rides on a bushing already. In fact it is the biggest bushing in a transmission since it must support the yoke sliding in and out. As far as strain on the yoke itself, it would be much less.
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
I take it you still have an NP 208? Dodge had a fixed yoke version of the 208. It is an inexpensive modification to rob the back half and shaft out of the Dodge case and make a hybrid 208 for your 1009. If I recall correctly the fill plug is in the wrong place on the dodge case, but that is no big deal to get around. If you research it I'm sure you will find a ton more info. The Dodge transfer case parts needed should be pretty easy to find at a pick-n-pull yard.
 
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