M35A2 injection pump refurbishing

[Dylandeuceman95]

Hello, first post here I apologize if I’m not in the right area. Still learning how to navigate forum. I have a recently purchased Kaiser jeep 1969 m35a2 I’ve been going through, long time want, first time owner!! It’s a solid truck from an airbase in Florida. Starts runs and drives awesome. Although It seems as if my injection pump has been leaving a small baseball size puddle of fuel every morning for a couple weeks now. Two things, if someone could point me in the correct direction for the pumps TM’s it would be greatly appreciated and also I would like to see about getting it rebuild and was wondering if anyone knows of any outfit in northwest Indiana or southwest lower Michigan that is familiar with this kind of work. Awesome forum by the way. You guys have taught me a lot so far. Any information anyone has on the subject of that pump it being serviced properly Is greatly appreciated! Thankyou everyone.

 

[Barrman]

Welcome to the Green Iron Disease Party!

At the top of the page there is a tab TM. Click on that, follow the drop down to the M35A2 trucks and you will be overwhelmed.

Are you sure the pump is leaking? There are several fittings, connections and a soft hose that will seep all in that general area.

 

[Dylandeuceman95]

Welcome to the Green Iron Disease Party!

At the top of the page there is a tab TM. Click on that, follow the drop down to the M35A2 trucks and you will be overwhelmed.

Are you sure the pump is leaking? There are several fittings, connections and a soft hose that will seep all in that general area.

Hello, thankyou for the response, honestly I have to pinpoint a little better exactly where it’s leaking from but it appears that at least the throttle shaft is leaking a black oily fuel. That seems to be where the majority of the dripping is coming from. I’m running diesel in it, not any used motor oil. which leads me to believe it’s getting oil into the fuel inside the pump somewhere.

 

[Floridianson]

Yes you need to do a good cleaning with brake clean non-chlorinated and pinpoint the exact place of leakage. 99% of the problems I believe that our fuel related mixing fuel with oil come from the head. Yes the booster pump add fuel to the oil but we're not talking about that now. Unless there is a problem in the lower unit of the IP it's best to leave the IP installed and change out the o-rings in the head and fuel control assembly shaft. You say it looks like it's coming from the throttle shaft. The deuce IP is lubricated with engine oil through the hose on the block. Then there is a weep hole in the bottom of the IP that lets it go back into the engine block. Now I'm not saying it couldn't happen but if that weep hole got plugged up somehow someway then possible the IP could completely fill up or at least to the level of throttle shaft. Myself I don't think that's happening. Let's just start with a good cleaning and with me that would be cleaning my glasses too.

 

[Dylandeuceman95]

I will take your advice and clean the area thoroughly, fallowed by doing some investigating into that hydraulic head and fuel control shaft. Thankyou so much for the insight! This kind of advice from those that know more than me about that pump is exactly what I was looking for.

 

[Dylandeuceman95]

Yes you need to do a good cleaning with brake clean non-chlorinated and pinpoint the exact place of leakage. 99% of the problems I believe that our fuel related mixing fuel with oil come from the head. Yes the booster pump add fuel to the oil but we're not talking about that now. Unless there is a problem in the lower unit of the IP it's best to leave the IP installed and change out the o-rings in the head and fuel control assembly shaft. You say it looks like it's coming from the throttle shaft. The deuce IP is lubricated with engine oil through the hose on the block. Then there is a weep hole in the bottom of the IP that lets it go back into the engine block. Now I'm not saying it couldn't happen but if that weep hole got plugged up somehow someway then possible the IP could completely fill up or at least to the level of throttle shaft. Myself I don't think that's happening. Let's just start with a good cleaning and with me that would be cleaning my glasses too.

And by fuel control assembly shaft you mean the fuel cut off shaft off the side of the head correct?

 

[Floridianson]

The TM calls it the fuel control unit assembly. It controls all levels of fuel from wide open throttle, idle and shut down. There is an o-ring for sealing the assembly. When that o-ring leaks it dumps fuel into the lower part of the IP and then back into the oil pan. If the gasket on the timing cover shut down rod is in good shape you never know it was leaking. By the removing that cover and you find oil and fuel mixed you can be rest assured that that o-ring is going bad. If the IP calls for the two o-rings for the head to be replaced we always replace the one for the fuel control unit assembly.

 

[Floridianson]

A side note after cleaning it with brake cleaner non-chlorinated real well dust the whole IP head area and where you think it's leaking with baby powder. The leak should be easier to find.

 

[Dylandeuceman95]

Quick question, I would also like to bypass the fuel density compensator on this truck as it has not been done and after some reading seems as if it pry should be. Now if I do the bypass, per big mikes motor pool kit and video, do I also have to replace the seals within the compensator? Or by having it bypassed will it no longer run fuel threw it anyways so I don’t have to worry about it then?

 

[Barrman]

Ounce you loop the hose around on the FDC. It is isolated and should not need anything replaced.

 

[Dylandeuceman95]

Understood, thankyou very much! Another thing. What is the best way to remove the hydraulic head with pump on truck. I’ve watched a lot of the videos and done a lot of reading. I understand taking off injector lines and how the painted tooth/mark on the head gear needs to be slightly before after or immediately on the head timing mark but how do you get it aligned? Are you bumping starter over until you can see the advance timing mark in window or can you get something on crank to turn it over by hand without removing the radiator. I apologize for the newbie questions. But greatly appreciate you all sharing your knowledge.