Summary - an M37 disc brake conversion improved my trucks braking significantly, but be prepared for a project
Took a bit, but I have completed the front axle and front axle disc brake conversion. I chose to do disc since the brakes worked, but weren't great, and a machine shop stated that my drums were to thin to turn. At the time, I didn't see a drum replacement available, but since then VPW offers one - https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/collections/back-in-stock/products/new-14-brake-drum-cc924400-n-1
Even with the drum being available, discs of course will be easier to service.
I got this kit from M Series Rebuild - https://mseriesrebuild.com/buy_sale.html. They patiently answered my questions when I had them (even my dumb questions), and the kit comes with a good directions book.
VPW also offers a kit, which may be the M Series Rebuild kit (it looks similar) - https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/...ware-kit-4wdb1axl?_pos=4&_sid=63a0246a7&_ss=r. VPW also is good about answering questions so this would be a good source too I think, but I didn't use this kit.
The axle/knuckle rebuild was also a challenge, but I am glad I got mine serviced since the innermost seals and brass bushings were all shot. I got the idea from Watsons Wagons -
First challenge is getting your wheel hubs to them. I ended up using blankets and a 5 gallon bucket to ship my hubs to them. Their kit comes with replacement hubs that have the disc mounting ring on it and I assume they use the hubs I sent in for future kit assembly.
The kit comes with custom parts in the crate, and a list of standard parts to get locally. The locally sources parts I got from NAPA and this was straightforward to get (caliper, pads, etc)
Driving friction fit lugs out then back in is a pain to do. I ended up using the old drum as a mandrel/anvil/something to hold the hub as I hammered it. Torquing is impossible without something to grip the round hub and disc, and there are several bolts to torque. I ended up finding a garage that let me use a tire mounting tool to hold the thing still as I torqued everything.
Caliper on my knuckle body didn't have enough clearance and I had to grind some material off the knuckle to get the caliper to fit properly. I did this slow and minimized it, but this was a long process.
I don't think my brake lines are standard since I had to get a hydraulic shop to custom make the rubber brake lines. It was not expensive to do this.
I am very happy with the end result, the braking is responsive and quick without being abrupt. The drum only brakes felt much less responsive. When it comes time to service, it will be straightforward to swap pads. The appearance of the vehicle is unchanged unless you really get close in, the wheel covers the disc to where it really isn't visible. I would recommend this conversion if your brakes are weak or drums are end of lifespan.

Took a bit, but I have completed the front axle and front axle disc brake conversion. I chose to do disc since the brakes worked, but weren't great, and a machine shop stated that my drums were to thin to turn. At the time, I didn't see a drum replacement available, but since then VPW offers one - https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/collections/back-in-stock/products/new-14-brake-drum-cc924400-n-1
Even with the drum being available, discs of course will be easier to service.
I got this kit from M Series Rebuild - https://mseriesrebuild.com/buy_sale.html. They patiently answered my questions when I had them (even my dumb questions), and the kit comes with a good directions book.
VPW also offers a kit, which may be the M Series Rebuild kit (it looks similar) - https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/...ware-kit-4wdb1axl?_pos=4&_sid=63a0246a7&_ss=r. VPW also is good about answering questions so this would be a good source too I think, but I didn't use this kit.
The axle/knuckle rebuild was also a challenge, but I am glad I got mine serviced since the innermost seals and brass bushings were all shot. I got the idea from Watsons Wagons -
First challenge is getting your wheel hubs to them. I ended up using blankets and a 5 gallon bucket to ship my hubs to them. Their kit comes with replacement hubs that have the disc mounting ring on it and I assume they use the hubs I sent in for future kit assembly.
The kit comes with custom parts in the crate, and a list of standard parts to get locally. The locally sources parts I got from NAPA and this was straightforward to get (caliper, pads, etc)
Driving friction fit lugs out then back in is a pain to do. I ended up using the old drum as a mandrel/anvil/something to hold the hub as I hammered it. Torquing is impossible without something to grip the round hub and disc, and there are several bolts to torque. I ended up finding a garage that let me use a tire mounting tool to hold the thing still as I torqued everything.
Caliper on my knuckle body didn't have enough clearance and I had to grind some material off the knuckle to get the caliper to fit properly. I did this slow and minimized it, but this was a long process.
I don't think my brake lines are standard since I had to get a hydraulic shop to custom make the rubber brake lines. It was not expensive to do this.
I am very happy with the end result, the braking is responsive and quick without being abrupt. The drum only brakes felt much less responsive. When it comes time to service, it will be straightforward to swap pads. The appearance of the vehicle is unchanged unless you really get close in, the wheel covers the disc to where it really isn't visible. I would recommend this conversion if your brakes are weak or drums are end of lifespan.
