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Major wiring help needed

Mthirtyseven

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Morganton/NC
Have started the long process of getting my m37 to start. The truck was converted to twelve volts long before I purchased it. Did not run for previous two owners.

The good - New battery and plugs, starter will turn over.

The bad - I had to wire in a new civilian ignition, #11 wire going to battery, all else on acc. No power anywhere else on the truck other than the starter. Checked ground straps and re-secured. Truck still uses 24v distributor, unsure where the wire coming from the distributor needs to go. The generator and voltage regulator is gone, I have a gm 12v 1-wire alternator but not hooked up. If I connect my test light to the A pin on the receptacle that is supposed to go to the generator/regulator it has power.

How do I get power to my ignition, coil, distributor and everything else? I ran a direct lead from the positive side of the battery to the positive on the coil and had no reaction other than the test light shining. No instrumentation movement.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Last edited:

zout

Well-known member
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63
Location
Columbus Georgia
Your HOT to the main and only dist wire is the feed to the points in your existing 24 volt dist set up correct ??????

A hot from ignition ON to feed that dist is needed. I also take it - the coil is a 24 volt coil inside the distributor ??
 

Mthirtyseven

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Morganton/NC
Would need the 24v generator. $$$. I have a 251 engine sitting on another m37 frame, has civilian distributor and ran for previous owner. Could switch it out.
 

zout

Well-known member
7,744
154
63
Location
Columbus Georgia
You would need an external 12v coil to find somehow ?? to the 24v dist you have - it is a sealed unit so I see no alternative than to either find a 12 dist complete or go back to 24v.

You could leave the brass plug open to the access the hot and ground to the points using an external 12v coil ??
 

eagle4g63

Well-known member
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Location
North/west Indiana
Ok.........so a very easy task for the missing high $$$$ 24 generator. You can have any COMPETENT alternator shop make you a 24 volt alternator out of a GM case. My buddy did mine after I fried the original.....anyway that would be my first line of reasoning and then everything else would be a simple hook it up the way it is suppose to go.........as stated in other threads about 12v and 24v wiring...........12 volt stuff uses twice the amps (yes 2X) so the wires need to be bigger, seams like a lot of re wiring and that ain't cheap!!!!
 

whatadeuce

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
May I suggest getting a clear copy of the origina;l wiring diagram for the M37 as a start. Are you comfortable reading and following a diagram ? If so, start from the battery and confirm what you have on the vehicle, wire by wire. If you find that a particuylar wire is iether missing or untraceablke, install a new one , making sure your connect it and NUMBER IT according to the diagram. keep a record and this way you wiill KNOW what you have, and then be able to trace and diagnose your machine effectively.
 

T. Highway

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
S.E. WI & S.E. TN, USA - Earth
You would need an external 12v coil to find somehow ?? to the 24v dist you have - it is a sealed unit so I see no alternative than to either find a 12 dist complete or go back to 24v.

You could leave the brass plug open to the access the hot and ground to the points using an external 12v coil ??

Actually John Bizal @ Midwest Military has 12 volt coils that fit into the Mil style Dist.

You would also have to change out the oil pump if you go back to a civy dist. The mil spec oil pump has an offset drive that won't work with a civy dist.

Bert
 

whatadeuce

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
Hello T.Highwat, and i just frelocatedto florida and noticed among my MV paarts, a 12 volt coil for my old m37, which I did buy from Bizal...small world:)
 
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