MEP-003A Generator Set Question

[DonaldB]

Item number 5 page 133 of TM5-6115-585-24P (LINKAGE,GOVERNOR), seems to have a lot of free play (the #6 side of the Linkage seams to just go in and out of the assembly) and the rest of the linkage doesn’t move. Is this some sort of gas shock or something? The generator cranks but won’t start.

 

[CobraBrat]

Item 5 has a lot of free movement (telescoping). Chances are that it is fine.

First, are you getting flow thru the IP and back to the tank when the fuel pumps are on? If not, you may have a stuck check valve.

Second, if it has not run in a long time, there may be air in the injector lines. You will either need to open them 1/4 turn to let the air out, or crank a long time for the air to get out.

Third, can you manually rotate the linkage that the solenoid pushes against on the IP? If you can not, the plunger is suck in the IP and you probably have a broken plunger guide inside the IP.

Finally, if you never get any fuel to the injectors, you need to rebuild the IP.

Caution: the fuel lines from the filters to the IP need to be replaced. I have had several that failed and one sent enough rubber particles to the IP to stick the plunger.

 

[DonaldB]

Do you know where you can get the fuel line needed?

 

[Speddmon]

Don't start replacing parts until you find out what is going on with the generator

Start off by verifying you have fuel returning to the tank while your pumps are on. It should be a steady stream, not just a trickle. There is a check valve in the lines near an elbow that is notorious for clogging up

When it cranks, does it even sound like it's trying to fire? Do you get any smoke from the cylinders, if so what color?

Answer some of those questions to give us a starting point and we'll help you get it running.

 

[CobraBrat]

I had a local hose shop make replacements for me. He used the ends off of the old hose. Apparently the swivel that goes into the IP was common, but is now rare. Cost for the hose from the check valve to the IP was $3 on one unit and $6 on another unit (different hose end bibs).

 

[DonaldB]

I tried starting the Gen. and it cranks for a while before it kicks in lots of gray smoke out the pipe closest to the control pannel and very little out the front. It wants to start but drops out when L let go of the starter position. The SOLENOID,STOP: ENGINE and terminals were missing from my gen. set. I purchased one used on line.

 

[DieselBob]

It wants to start but drops out when L let go of the starter position. .

You have to hold it in the "start" position until it builds oil pressure. Are you doing this ?

 

[Speddmon]

Yes, you need to hold until it builds oil pressure, but not for any longer than about 15 seconds!!!!!

It should have plenty of pressure before that length of time in warmer weather like this. If after you have pressure and it still doesn't start then you may have a safety switch issue that we can work on. There are 2 safety shutdowns that will cause the problems you are describing. One is the low oil pressure switch and the other is the high temp switch. I would jump one at a time from the circuit and see if either of those solves your problem.

 

[DonaldB]

It took 15 sec to get her to start kicking. I then jumped the oil pressure switch and it starts after 15 sec. and runs but I turned it off after another 15 sec. (not reading oil pressure on the guage). Lots of grey smoke on both pipes.

 

[Speddmon]

You do have oil in it right??? Get a new gauge and make sure you have oil pressure!!!!!!

The gray smoke is not a bad sign....could just need run a bit and warmed up some.

 

[storeman]

There are 2 safety shutdowns that will cause the problems you are describing. One is the low oil pressure switch and the other is the high temp switch. I would jump one at a time from the circuit and see if either of those solves your problem.

That high temp switch is a sleeper. Caused me to conclude that I had 3 bad fuel shut-off solenoids before I figured out the set I was testing them on had an intermittent bad high temp sensor. I need to use a different set for testing, but with the rain, haven't felt like getting soaked.

The three of you who have asked me for fuel cut-off solenoids might be smart to check the high temp sensor (behind the louvers) before you decide your solenoid is bad.

Lesson learned.

Jerry

 

[DonaldB]

I purchased a new surplus oil pressure gauge as the one I had had rust in it. When cranking still no oil pressure on gauge. I removed the gauge and cranked the generator but no oil came out. Thoughts?
DonaldB

 

[CobraBrat]

Doesn't sound good. I assume there is oil in the crankcase. Have you changed the oil and filter? Look to see how much sludge come out when the oil is changed. Maybe the suction line on the pump is stopped up. If you can't get oil, you are looking at some pretty major work.

 

[Speddmon]

possibly the hose from the filter casting to the gauge is plugged? Take the fitting off of the casting and see if it is open. Maybe try cranking it a bit with the hose off and see if oil comes out the opening. If not, you'll be pulling the oil pan to check the oil pump and pick-up

 

[DonaldB]

Speddmon,
THX for the phone call...It looks like one of 2 things, the oil pump or the Oil By-pass Valve. Anyone removed the Oil By-pass plug, spring and valve before (see Figure 7-20 of TMS5-6115-585-34)

 

[DonaldB]

Anyone replaced the oil pump before?

 

[CobraBrat]

No, but I am converting over to spin on filters and would be happy to send you one.

 

[Speddmon]

No, but I am converting over to spin on filters and would be happy to send you one.

??????? What ????????

 

[DieselBob]

Wonder what the chances are the pickup tube fell out of the pump. Looking at the manuals I don't see where there is any type of retainer for the tube. Just seems to be a press fit . Maybe worth taking the oil drain line off the pan and fish around in the pan with a magnet to see if there are any loose items in there. Maybe take a look if you have a bore scope.