MEP 803a governor question

[SQF]

Hi all, I recently picked up a very low hour 803a (125hr if memory serves). I’m by no means even a novice at these generators, but I have three of them now I use for construction. With this forums help, I have worked through numerous issues.

This one came with no batteries and known “run ability” issues; specifically would not run at rated speed and then it won’t shut off. The diesel return lines from the injectors were all missing as well as the return to the tank. I hooked all this back up and put fresh batteries in it (please disregard the non-oem lines I used). It fired right up but sounds likes it is under a heavy load and then won’t shut off. After running 1-2 min it smelled like something getting hot in the gen head. There was some smoke come out of the gen head. Somehow I got it shut off. I started with the governor shut off solenoid linkage. They were rigged and not like my other two 803’s. What I noticed was that the governor “lever” does not appear to articulate the way my other two 803’s do.it does not go to the stop like it should. I’m not sure where to go from here. Any direction much appreciated!

 

[Light in the Dark]

You will need to pull the metering pumps (or at least one of them) and see if they are lined up with the slots in the internal armature that opens and closes the fuel to them. I would suspect that if you cannot fully close that arm, that one or more are not properly lined up and its stopping the movement to the left (closed) Or, you might have a 'frozen' pump or two that is hanging up the works.

 

[SQF]

Ok, the novice in me is about to come out. Are the metering pumps what have the bolted hold downs that insert into the side of the block? I assume those metering pumps have the lines that run to the individual injectors? If so and I remove those, what am I looking for in terms of alignment?

 

[rickf]

The orange silicone is never a good sign, especially when it is way overdone like that one. That stuff gets into everything and jams things up.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Ok, the novice in me is about to come out. Are the metering pumps what have the bolted hold downs that insert into the side of the block? I assume those metering pumps have the lines that run to the individual injectors? If so and I remove those, what am I looking for in terms of alignment?

Yes, bingo. They look like this:


See that downward metal pin? That locks into (4) notches on the governor armature. When they move to the left, it restricts fuel completely... far right, full volume.

This is what the armature looks like on the inside.



See how if they aren't nested into those notches, it could cause run issues (or inhibit movement)?

 

[Light in the Dark]

And they need to be positioned not only in that notch, but also the top part rotated as close to the push rod tube as possible upon reinstallation. That top rotation allows for the pump to be 'clocked' to allow the full range of governor arm movement. If they are not set evenly, you can see poor running habits, hot or cold cylinder temps, etc. Just about making everything as even as possible.

 

[Ray70]

Go to the top of this forum, 2nd post down, It's got lots of good info about the metering pumps, tips to install and how to tell if you have a frozen metering pump. Hopefully your problem is as simple as a sticking pump lever, but obviously someone has already had the timing cover off, so you won't know until you dig into it.