MEP-803a with Start/Stop Lever Issue

[Maestro]

I have been working on a MEP-803a I bought from auction that had a number of issues. Most of them were electrical, broken or missing parts. All those have been addressed and still can not get it started. The Metering Pumps were replaced and installed incorrect, I have fixed that. The front gear covered was removed at one time (covered in RTV), I am thinking as part of the metering pump replacement.

The problem I am having now even with the metering pumps installed correctly the start/stop level will not rotated clockwise (to the start position) once the fuel solenoid engages and pulls back. It will rotate if I move it myself, it not stuck. Looking at various online video the start/stop level appears to rotate clockwise on its own once the fuel solenoid moves back. Even when I remove the solenoid arm from the lever, it will not rotate on its own. I removed all the metering pumps to make sure the rack is not bent or hung up, it will move easily on it own and you can tell it has spring attached to it, it will move on its own from front to back of the engine with no effort. However the level is not rotating by itself even when the rack is moving.

Before I open the front of the gear housing cover and start looking inside I wanted to make sure I am not missing anything. The first picture the specific parts I am talking about. 45 is the lever which is connected to part 43. and it looks like spring 41 is also connect to it. I believe this spring is what should rotate the lever clockwise. It also looks like part 43 engage the rack for the metering pumps. The second picture is an internal shot of the part 43, I put a scope into the engine to see what was going on. If you look it appears to have wire wrapped around it, and it not the same thickness as the spring 41 you can see in the picture.

I attached a link at bottom to a video I record of part 43 rotating, I hope you all can view it, its MPG4. It will allow you to down load the video to your computer. If you look at the video, it appears like the spring is not moving so it not attached to the level 43 as I think it should be. There is also spring 38, the drawing does not show where that is attached, that could be the wire seen on lever 43.

Let me know what you think. Could anyone share a good picture of proper connection of spring 41 and lever 43 should be. As said I am thinking this was not put back together properly when it was worked on.

TIA

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[Ray70]

When you were working on reinstalling the metering pumps correctly did the lever pins on all 4 move freely? ( the pins that engage the fuel rack )
And if you removed all 4 metering pumps at once, did you notice the fuel rack always springing itself all the way to the right ( rear of the engine )?
If the rack isn't pulling the metering pumps to the full fuel position with the engine stopped, then spring #41 isn't your problem.
All that "trip mechanism" on the lever simply allows the fuel shut off solenoid to pull the fuel rack forward to the "off" position despite the governor trying to force it fully open.

Do you have all 4 metering pumps bolted down fully?
If they are not bolted down all the way the lever pins will rub on the underside of the block, causing them to bind up and the rack / fuel lever won't move.

It sounds like your rack is binding up for one reason or another. Either a sticky metering pimp lever or some other issue with the governor or the rack etc.
The red silicone sealer on the timing cover is not from someone replacing the metering pumps, it's probably from someone poking around in there trying to figure out what's wrong with the governor rack, or someone poked around an caused a problem with the rack.....

 

[Maestro]

I did confirm all the meter pumps fuel adjustment pins moves freely on all 4, as I said they are all new, there is no signs of any wear on the bottom which engages the cam shaft.

When all the meter pumps are removed the fuel adjustment rack does move freely, but it does not spring to the (right) back of engine it will eventually move. I can move it by hand and you can tell it has some spring tension on it. It will only move once I manually rotate the start/stop lever clockwise to the back of the engine.

I found a video on how to properly install the metering pumps and adjust them, I followed that and when I move the start/stop lever as best I can tell the adjustment pin on the metering pumps are moving back and forth as you would expect. I made sure they were fully seated and they all had the 3 spacers between the block and black ring.

I am starting to think I need to remove the gear cover, since someone was definitely in there at one time and may have messed something up. Do I have to remove the radiator or could this be accomplished by take the fan, belts and hoses off.

 

[Guyfang]

Is this the same generator set you are trying to fix in the thread?:

MP-803A - Will not Crank from S-1