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MEP-804A turns over but won't start (governor module?)

crmorse

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I have a similar but different starting problem from the other 804A start problem threads. I've read everything in those threads and I think I've done all of those tests (details below) so I "guess" I'm down to the governor module being the problem but I want to be sure first before just throwing parts at it.

Background: I've had my set about 5 years but only used it a handful of times during storm outages. I ran test cycles every few months but not super religiously. The only thing I noticed was that it was originally very quick to start--only a couple of seconds to catch and then come up to speed-- and then progressively slower to start requiring me to hold the start switch for longer and longer each time. The last time it started and ran correctly I had to hold it in start for maybe 20 seconds.

Current state: Batteries have been recharged and it will turn over at full speed but does not fire at all. Sometimes there is a small amount of unburnt fuel smoke when attempting to start but it's not very much, nothing like it did when it started.

I do have the TMs and have read them backwards and forward until I'm now blind to what must surely be obvious. Details below but I I think I've narrowed it down to either the governor module not outputting the correct control signal or the governor actuator not reacting to it.

Troubleshooting steps I've taken so far:
* Fuel tank - the last time it ran I nearly emptied the tank but did not run out. I've since filled it full ( which results in the priming pump not running in the "prime' position which was my first "goose chase." I've confirmed the fuel pump runs and when cranking over there is fuel to the injection pump
* Injection pump & prime - I've checked that fuel is flowing to each injector and bleed the system
* governor actuator - I've checked that the throttle solenoid has the right impedance, it works and responds correctly to voltage/current
* MPU - checked & reseated. It is outputting the correct voltage (I've even verified hte signal on an oscilloscope)
* wiring - I did find a mouse nest but could not find any damaged wires. I've checked continuity on all of the circuited relating to start
* start switch (S1) - I've tested that all the circuits make according to the schematic on page 817 (ARMY TM 9-6115-643-24)
* governor module (Woodward 8270-1002) - I've checked the DC voltage in and MPU signal into the module and continuity to the governor actuator. HOWEVER, I have NOT been able to confirm what the module should be outputting to the governor actuator so that's unknown

Known Good:
The engine did fire up immediately when I manually set the throttle position so I know the engine, fuel, and fuel pumps are good, it's most likely a problem in (or before) the governor actuator.

New mistakes:
1. When I tested the S1 I carefully labeled the wires and thought I put them back correctly but now the hour meter runs anytime the dead crank switch is in Normal so I obviously got something wrong. I have not been able to find the page in the TM that lists the correct wire numbers and positions. I need to fix this before I move on troubleshooting.

Special notes:
1. The Woodward Governor module already had all the wires numbered when I started so somebody has been in here before. But it worked when I got it so I don't immediately suspect that.
2. The fuse mod is present.
3. I've seen mentions about another mod (MOV? I don't remember) but I don't know what that is or if I need it.
4. Once I have it working again I want to do the single-phase conversion and add kloppk's remote start kit. This will be the standby generator for my off-grid solar setup
5. Set has 803 hours on it so far, about 30 of those are mine.

Ask:
1. Can anybody point me at the right wire numbers for the S1 switch?
2. What do I troubleshoot next?
3. Is it time to try replacing the governor module? If so, what caused it to fail? Since this is obviously at least the 2nd module in it is it possible that something else is wrong that's burning up the governor modules?

Images of placards, front cover, and engine bay attached.

Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

crmorse

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I finally found the wire numbers tonight. They are in "Figure 8. Control Box Harness Assembly" of TM-9-6115-643-24P. Posting here in case it's every helpful for anyone else.

The Master Switch (aka Start Switch) is known as S1 in the schematics. Terminals 2-4-6-8 are all jumpered together on the switch with bus part. The correct wire mappings are:
1 = 172A20
2 = na
3 = 129B20
4 = 180F20
5 = 173A20
6 = na
7 = 190A20
8 = 180D20

I'm still working on what to troubleshoot next.... going through the main TM I thought I found it with a minimum idle set adjustment but that's only for the 804B and I have an A....
 

kloppk

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You do NOT need the MOV update. That only applies to the MEP-802A & MEP-803A.

From my limited experience with the Governor Controller module you need the following signal to it in order for it to send power to the mechanical actuator on the engine while cranking.
1) 24 volts DC power across terminals 3 & 4
2) 24 volts DC on terminal 1 for 60 Hz operation
3) Working Frequency adjust potentiometer. Set to midpoint and verify resistance. Disconnect it's wires from the Electronic actuator before checking resistances. 5K ohms across its outer terminals and 2.5K from center terminal to the two outer terminals. Reconnect wires.
4) 24 volts DC to terminal 5 which comes from the overspeed relay coil
5) Correct AC voltage from MPU to terminals 16 & 17.

When those conditions met the Electronic Actuator module should be applying 16-17 volts DC to the mechanical actuator to allow fuel flow.
 

jamawieb

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Ive had several issues out of the governor controls. Kloppk (Kurt) has fixed one of my boards recently.
1st. Test the mpu at the controller. Take number 16 and 17 off. Put you multimeter on ac and measure while starting. Should be around 3v. I had one unit that was loosing continuity and had a no start due to the wire.
2nd test dc voltage on number 3 with the master switch to Prime and run. If thats good. Move to 3
3rd test dc voltage at number 9 while starting. Should be around 20v or less.
Ive been having 2 units that work unit they have sit for 2 weeks or more. I will get it to crank but no start. I can test voltage at 9 and negative on 4. Then it will magically start. Still trying to figure this one out.
 

jamawieb

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Kloppk beat me to it. Lol!
The other big issue Ive encountered with the 804a is the main fuel hose from the tank to the injector pump. It will degrade and actually leak air. Its the weirdest thing. It will not weep fuel. Ive had 12 or more with this issue. You need to take the hose off. Put your finger over 1 end then put alittle fuel (I use carb cleaner) in the other and then blow compressed air in the end you just put fuel in. When you blow air in the hose will weep fuel in the places that are bad. Take it to any place that makes hydraulic lines and get a new one made.
My only theory is that since the 804a doesnt have an electronic pump to force fuel to the pump and the injector pump doesnt make enough pressure for the fuel to weep because it doesnt stay in the line.

The more I think about it, I would test this theory 1st. Especially since it was a good running unit.

Also it looks like you have the original water seperator on the unit and since you dont run it much are you sure it hasnt developed algea in the fuel?
 

crmorse

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Thank you both for you inputs! I definitely got a result.

1st I fixed the wires on the switch. Only one was in the wrong place and everything acts normal again so that was easy.

2nd I checked all the things ya'll suggested

from @kloppk
1) 24 volts DC power across terminals 3 & 4 ===> CHECK, 24.2Vdc
2) 24 volts DC on terminal 1 for 60 Hz operation ===> CHECK, 24.2Vdc
3) Working Frequency adjust potentiometer. ===> CHECK, 5K ohms across and 2.5K from center terminal to the two outer terminals. Nice clean sweep without any jumps or breaks
4) 24 volts DC to terminal 5 which comes from the overspeed relay coil ===> CHECK, 24.2Vdc
5) Correct AC voltage from MPU to terminals 16 & 17. ===> CHECK
- it was out of range (1v) originally but I was able to adjust it to 3v. I'm sure this was from earlier troubleshooting and not the original problem
- impedance to MPU is good (800ohm)

from @jamawieb
3rd test dc voltage at number 9 while starting. Should be around 20v or less. ===> FAIL, Voltage is 0V <--I'm guessing this is the problem

@jamawieb I'll check out the fuel lines and separator but I don't think that is it based on it's been running perfectly up until now and it will fire up *instantly* if I manually set the throttle. But I will keep it mind and check it for future issues.

Unless anybody else has any ideas I think it's time to change the governor module.
 

crmorse

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I pulled the governor module today. No signs anywhere of any damage or burned components. The conformal coating has obviously been messed with by somebody before me but no signs of damage anywhere. I'm just waiting on a reply from mc/mac now to buy a replacement.
 

crmorse

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Several days with no reply from mac/mc so I don't know if he's traveling or what. Does anybody else have a source for a replacement Woodward 8270-1002 Governor Module? @kloppk maybe?
 
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