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MEP002A won't come up to 1800 at start-up

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Let me say up front that I searched the forum for this problem & the search came up with over 500 posts....tried going through several pages but never found the specific problem--or at least one with the answer I was looking for.

Went through a recently purchased MEP2, installing new fuel, oil & air filters. Added 4 qts oil, bled system, installed new battery wires, etc. and went through the start-up procedure in the manual to light it off. (I already owned an MEP003A for 15 years.) Anyway, the unit fired up but it did not go to 1800 RPM. I shut it down within a few seconds to troubleshoot and here I am.

1st question--did I fry the voltage regulator or other components? 2nd question--Is there an initial fuel control knob setting that will get the engine close to 1800 and then I can set speed via freq meter?

So I don't waste everyone's time, if there's a sticky post or other posts that someone can point me to, I would be most grateful. I lost my job several months ago and I need to get this machine working properly to sell to my neighbor, who already asked me to give him 1st buy on the unit.

Thanks for your assist and advice. A good weekend to all..
 

derf

Member
926
13
18
Location
LA
Make sure the governor and linkage is in good working order.

Try turning the speed adjust knob and see if it comes up to a higher speed.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Should the speed adjustment rod be pushed all the way in, all the way out or about half way out? I believe my MEP003 is set about half way out, but it's over in another state right now so I can look at it. As to the governor linkage, it moves freely and I lubed everything prior to starting. IP throttle linkage moves up & down easy and the governor springs are all connected & linkages move freely.

I'm not clear about the solenoid connected to the IP linkage. Is this supposed to retract when the generator is started or what? Is this simply a fuel shut-off solenoid? What is its correct "run position"?

Thanks for the help!
 

derf

Member
926
13
18
Location
LA
The solenoid should engage/disengage at startup/shutdown. If it starts and then goes off when you turn the switch off then the solenoid is most likely working.
Try the knob all the way in and then all the way out and see which one gets you better speed. Don't let it idle for long but you should be able to tell if it improves or not when you first start it.
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
The knob should be about 3/4 to 1 inch OUT for a rough estimate of the proper speed. It sounds to me like your governor needs adjusted. That topic has been discussed at length as well. I don't know the exact pages of the TM right off hand, but the TM instructions are really easy to follow
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Thank you sir--I'll try pulling the rod all the way first and then the opposite if nothing changes on the speed. I believe the knob is more for fine-tuning, so right now I'm just trying to get it where it remotely sounds like 1800 RPM & then will adjust voltage & freq from there...that is if I didn't damage any electrical stuff during the 1st start-up...thanks again for the help! :smile:
 

derf

Member
926
13
18
Location
LA
Thank you sir--I'll try pulling the rod all the way first and then the opposite if nothing changes on the speed. I believe the knob is more for fine-tuning, so right now I'm just trying to get it where it remotely sounds like 1800 RPM & then will adjust voltage & freq from there...that is if I didn't damage any electrical stuff during the 1st start-up...thanks again for the help! :smile:

Assuming the knob is properly installed and calibrated, right?
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Good news--got the engine at the proper speed & voltage/freq good. Only was able to run something off the 15A AC outlets & it checked out good. I am a little concerned about a slight rattling (like sheet metal rattle) that seems to be coming from the aft end of the generator. However, this one did have several missing bolts on the housing and on the gauge panel too. The battery voltage gauge fluctuates wildly if I set freq @ 60hz but when I adjust up to 62 or so the gauge reads on the high side in the green and almost to the red. Batt voltage read 14 & 28. Hopefully the rattling sound is not a problem & the installation of the missing bolts will help. Ran the unit for about 20 minutes with no incidents except as noted.

Thanks to all who assisted...hope I can repay the favor one day....now 1 down and 2 more MEP2s to go!
 

storeman

Well-known member
1,345
52
48
Location
Mathews County, VA
Missing bolts and unlocked latches will cause rattles. Aft is opposite of where you are standing. I'm assuming you are standing at the control box, so if you are missing bolts on fan end, yes a lot of rattling. They are 1/4 and 5/16" common threads.

Jerry
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Thanks Jerry--what I was trying to describe with the rattling noise is that it seemed to be coming from inside the actual generator housing at the end facing the gauge board or what we would call the pedestal end on large generators. Hopefully I'm just hearing the sheet metal noise and its not something inside the generator.

Monday I'll be heading over to my friendly bolt wholesaler and get a box of each bolt size on the sheet metal stuff. Then whenever I need replacement bolts I've have a stock on hand.
 

sharab85

New member
5
0
1
Location
Carterville, IL
1800, did you ever find the cause of the rattle in the generator housing because I am getting the same thing in my 002a and am concerned about it. I could not find any loose or missing bolts.

Thanks,

Shawn
 

Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
I had this noise comming out my Mep 002a generator end this last summer and this was what I found.The rear bearing was completely dry. Installed a new bearing and everything is nice and quiet now. DSC00166.jpg
 
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1800 Diesel

Member
768
25
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
1800, did you ever find the cause of the rattle in the generator housing because I am getting the same thing in my 002a and am concerned about it. I could not find any loose or missing bolts.

Thanks,

Shawn
Shawn,

Never did find anything beyond the sheet metal noises that were cured by installing a dozen or so missing bolts. I still believe I can hear noise from the generator end but it definitely quieted down after I secured the housing pieces. The remaining noise I am hearing may well be the bearing as noted in post #14 above. For the time being, had to put the MEP2 on the back burner to work 2 MEP4s that people are waiting for.....
 
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Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
There is a guy on pee pay that I got mine from. Type in (mep 002a rotor bearing). Getting out the bearing wasnt too bad but had to walk away once or twice. The bearing stayed on the rotor, used a bearing puller and with an impact gun on low to medium torque came off prettly easily. With some patience, it can be done. Like I said before, the noise sounded like a loose something coming from the end of the generator housing, and the cause was this dry bearing. I maybe could have repact it, but with all the trouble of getting the bearing off, I didnt want to do it again .
 

Grega

Member
205
1
18
Location
St. Paul Nebraska.
Just read your post Jimc. Good idea on pulling the bearing. The main issue with mine was the control panel was in the way. By the way, You will have a new generator when your done, if you remember where all those parts go. Keep the pics coming.
 
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