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MEP004 Recontrol and repair

Scoobyshep

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Backstory: Years ago I obtained a mep004 for a good price, and it being the first in what turned out to be a fun hobby, I set it up to run as my backup power source. First thing that had to be done was the lower radiator connection. I found it was clogged and causing the set to overheat. when I took it apart to clean I had noted some serious corrosion damage to the housing, More on that later. Once I got it running (starter needed cleaned) I did a single phase conversion. I used the concept sewerzuk posted about, but instead of making bussbar cuts i changed the locations of the head leads on the reconnection board, Physically different but electrically the same. Once that was complete the set got moved into position.

Once there came the wiring and controls. Since I do motor controls professionally I had an abundance of parts at my disposal. After several evenings and weeks of work I had this setup to automatically start govern frequency and transfer power. This ran great for several years until I had a cannon plug failure. At this point the damage was bad enough for me to do a full recontrol of the set.

While starting the software writing process and arguing with myself which controller I wanted to use I came across another similar thread on this forum. That being said a huge thankyou to @peapvp for his work on the mebay conversion and willingness to help. While doing all this work it was also time for batteries (one they were getting weak, two the radiator was leaking on them) On my todo list was now repairing the corroded radiator connection, trying to find a replacement proved rather impossible.

I started with a piece of aluminum plate long enough to cover the port. Then it was cut approx half way through with a holesaw sized to the OD of the fitting. Then it was bored through with a smaller blade (equal to the fitting diameter) this made a rather impressive press fit. This then provided me an excuse to buy a new tigwelder, and welded the fitting to the plate. Now for the shudders infront of the radiator, I made a set of brackets and used a DC linear actuator to pull them open when the coolant got hot enough

After several weekends of very hot work I finally got the set to a place I could start testing. more to come soon
 

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Scoobyshep

Well-known member
1,394
2,198
113
Location
Florida
Don't stop now!!
By lower radiator connection, you mean the shutter control?
Thats the one It had a bad spot in it right where the hose clamps on. there was cavitation damage to the metal causing the hose to not seal. My first thought was i can weld this back and fill the gap. I learned the hard way that it isnt aluminum, its a magnisium alloy. which itself is flammable, the oxide powder it produces from corrosion is something used in the manufacture if fireworks. So something best not welded.


First bit of testing was getting the starter release tuned. That one was rather simple The mebay handles that one rather nicely.

Next up the AVR. the factory one was still in working order but since i was doing work anyway I opted to upgrade. I used the ADVR54 that was posted to another thread. Once that was working Frequency was up next. Alot of the analog sensors im using a re 4-20 output so theres some programming that has to be done to get the scaling right. Once that was reading accurately came the servo tuning. This proved frustrating, I originally pulled the code from my original controller but due to processor scan times this newer faster processor gave me quite the headache. I had to put some pulse delays in to keep it from overshooting. After that the voltage and current sensors were next (and alot less annoying).

This is were I got the fault indicating system up and running (https://youtube.com/shorts/KhJf0_2Nqys?feature=share) OK i might have gotten a touch carried away......

First live test went poorly the voltage kept browning out. The design of the AVR calls for some large resistors to get the field in spec of what the ADVR 54 can handle. Its useable range is 15 to 100 ohms on the field. My field was measured at 2.25 ohm (spec is 2-4) with the additional resistors I was just inder the spec for the avr. I added an additional 5 ohms to the specified 12 ohm resistor in series. after tuning the avr stability and voltage The set was loadtested to 16.5 kw. this proved that the current sensors are working correctly, the servo is keeping the frequency in spec, and the voltage is stable from the avr. added bonus I did get the engine hot enough to get he shutters open and subsuquently close when cooled enough.


The final test was the fun one. Pull the main and see what happens. Power outage lasted 8 seconds. I am now back in a state of hurricane readiness (as long as theres enough beer in the fridge)
 
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