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MEP005A frequency meter not working.

Ray70

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West greenwich/RI
Page 84 section 2-12
battle short.JPG
It bypasses everything except overspeed and short circuit.
It is also supposed to lock out the starter, is that how yours is working?
Are you starting it, then engaging the battle short? because you should not be able to crank it while its engaged. You only fill the day tank prior to starting by flipping S7 up, then should have to put it back off to start.
 

yohanusmarcus

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Location
Hayti missouri
Page 84 section 2-12
View attachment 916666
It bypasses everything except overspeed and short circuit.
It is also supposed to lock out the starter, is that how yours is working?
Are you starting it, then engaging the battle short? because you should not be able to crank it while its engaged. You only fill the day tank prior to starting by flipping S7 up, then should have to put it back off to start.
Yes if I flip the battle short on prior to starting the starter is disabled. With it off it starts right up and within 10 seconds or less produces power. If I let go of the start switch the engine dies. If I first turn on the battle short switch then release the start switch, it continues to run smoothly and produces power. But I do not have power at the receptacle and I don't know why.
 

Guyfang

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Look at all the lights on the Fault Indicator. Ignore the Short Circuit and Over peed lights. All the other lights represent functions that keep the L1, (Fuel shut off solenoid) from staying energized.

1707909832191.png

Open the Special Relay box. Jump with a wire, between TB 101-1 to TB 101-9
Then start the set normally. Will it stay running?
 

yohanusmarcus

Member
74
36
18
Location
Hayti missouri
Look at all the lights on the Fault Indicator. Ignore the Short Circuit and Over peed lights. All the other lights represent functions that keep the L1, (Fuel shut off solenoid) from staying energized.

View attachment 916672

Open the Special Relay box. Jump with a wire, between TB 101-1 to TB 101-9
Then start the set normally. Will it stay running?
I'll have to wait until I can get it uploaded from the trailer it's on because it's sitting side by side with another generator, and I don't currently have a way to unloaded either one. When I have it running without the battle short switch on and start switch up there are no lights on. Eaven with the battle short switch on there are no lights on.
 

jamawieb

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Location
Ripley/TN
Here's a handful of options, if yours ends up testing bad.
The gage/ transducer combo's are a bit pricey.
The newer transducer will work in an 802/803, 002/003 and I believe will also work in an 004,005 and 006.




On the 004 and 005 you can't use a regular 60hertz transducer because the gauge wont read correctly. Ive tried. I bought a couple of the 50hz - 60hz transducers you listed (part# 19280) that i hope will work if i have another fail. Ive had to use one of the newer 60hz transducers and a regular 60hz gauge. Which works just fine.
 

yohanusmarcus

Member
74
36
18
Location
Hayti missouri
Ok guys I know I started this thread about the frequency meter not working, but I think there are bigger fish to fry first.
That being said, the machine will run but only with the battle short on. When I follow start up procedures as outlined on the inside of the door, start run switch on chech fuel levels. Battle short on. (Return both switches to stop and off positions. ) I never hear the fuel pumps run. Am I missing something or are there some things that I need to test?
 

peapvp

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Basehor, KS
Normally, when you move to run / prime the pumps will make sound like a tic tic which slows down as fuel system is primed and pressurized.

This is with the the battleshort in off position

I am in Basehor, Kansas about 8 hour drive from you
 

Guyfang

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Look at all the lights on the Fault Indicator. Ignore the Short Circuit and Over peed lights. All the other lights represent functions that keep the L1, (Fuel shut off solenoid) from staying energized.

View attachment 916672

Open the Special Relay box. Jump with a wire, between TB 101-1 to TB 101-9
Then start the set normally. Will it stay running?
Have you done this?
 

Guyfang

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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
He wrote in post #17:

None of the lights are on with s17 on. They all light when I toggle the reset test switch, so all the bulbs are good. I'll have to remove the 120 receptacle to check directly on the wires. I don't idle the machine, if anything I'm running more than 60 HZ. Currently I don't have a kill-a-watt meter or a dvm that will read frequency, I'll have to get one or both soon. I do understand basic electrical nomenclature. (Frequency is related to rpm of the engine. This machine produces both single phase 120/208, or 3 phase 240/480 etc.) I'm just not familiar with this machine per say. Eaven though I believe it's the same unit we used at Ft. Knox in the late 80s.
 
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