My m925a1 build "Brutus"

[muthkw25]

I have had issues with the speedometer and the cable is broken. Speedo hasn't been accurate since 1600s and now it's off by more than 30 mph when cruising at 40mph by GPS. Instead of buying a new cable, I decided it was time for an upgrade. I bought an autometer GPS speedometer. I wasn't a huge fan of the gauge color but if I need to replace down the road, this series of gauges has everything I need but the voltage gauge. It's high quality and it will be accurate regardless of tires I run on the truck.

I had to step the power down on this gauge. Gauge runs on 12v or 16v. So I bought that 24v to 12v converter. I decided I wanted the gauge to get power when I turn accessory switch on. So Dad and I built a Y-jumper wire using the rubber boot connectors and jumped off the voltage gauge. I ran the output to the voltage gauge to input of the converter. And the output of the converter to the gauge. The gauge light I changed out to a 24v green led bulb. I then built a 3 way wire and spliced into where the dash bulb gets its power from. This way I can illuminate it when I use the push button light switch so it works like it's stock. I did a 3 way because I wired the Pyro into this setup. Overall I am very pleased with the results. The gauges in the photos appear much brighter than they are. There is a significant difference obviously between the new speedometer and the stock gauges but it gives you an idea. Also, Sgt Tibbs had to help Dad and I throughout the installation. I'll test it out in the next week or so and report back how accurate it is.

 

[Mullaney]

I have had issues with the speedometer and the cable is broken. Speedo hasn't been accurate since 1600s and now it's off by more than 30 mph when cruising at 40mph by GPS. Instead of buying a new cable, I decided it was time for an upgrade. I bought an autometer GPS speedometer. I wasn't a huge fan of the gauge color but if I need to replace down the road, this series of gauges has everything I need but the voltage gauge. It's high quality and it will be accurate regardless of tires I run on the truck.

I had to step the power down on this gauge. Gauge runs on 12v or 16v. So I bought that 24v to 12v converter. I decided I wanted the gauge to get power when I turn accessory switch on. So Dad and I built a Y-jumper wire using the rubber boot connectors and jumped off the voltage gauge. I ran the output to the voltage gauge to input of the converter. And the output of the converter to the gauge. The gauge light I changed out to a 24v green led bulb. I then built a 3 way wire and spliced into where the dash bulb gets its power from. This way I can illuminate it when I use the push button light switch so it works like it's stock. I did a 3 way because I wired the Pyro into this setup. Overall I am very pleased with the results. The gauges in the photos appear much brighter than they are. There is a significant difference obviously between the new speedometer and the stock gauges but it gives you an idea. Also, Sgt Tibbs had to help Dad and I throughout the installation. I'll test it out in the next week or so and report back how accurate it is.

.
Sgt Tibbs looks like he is interested in what you are doing...
Go man go!

 

[muthkw25]

Got the last 16r20 together on the hemtt wheel and holding air for the spare. I also got a Fiberglass hard top for the truck in. Got inside primed and painted. Outside is now primed with self etching primer. Sgt Tibbs was inspecting the bed and checking out the paint from Rapco. He gave it the stamp of approval. Next step is to finish sanding the mirror brackets and painting the new mirrors up. Installation of hardtop on Friday. Once completed I can get the body painted and ready for the season.

 

[muthkw25]

Didn't have alot of time tonight but got the locking door handle installed. Sgt Tibbs again inspecting to make sure it's done up to code. And then laughed about it.

 

[muthkw25]

Finish passenger side door handle today and taped off the brand new mirrors and painted with rapco marine corps forest green. 34052. Tomorrow plan is to get hardtop mounted and get ready for body paint.

 

[muthkw25]

I bought a Fiberglass hardtop. I do not recommend it. I had one for my deuce that fit like a glove. This one fits horrid. Dad helped me grind down the inside to help fit better but still not perfect but working on it. Almost ready to drill holes for the back of the cab. I also used a high temp primer and high temp black for the exhaust. Going to apply a coat to inside of heat shield and then exhaust and all gets painted green like the truck. Getting closer to paint.

 

[ohsmily]

Had a hiccup when doing overhead. When my buddy came up to help with the radiator, dual fuel line mod, and coolant filter, we did the overhead on the engine. As we got to the last cylinder, the feeler gauge broke and a piece went Into the engine.

We tried looking for it and couldn't find it. Called cummins and asked for any ideas, they said it could be in the block or it could be elsewhere. Drained the oil and tried using a camera and couldn't see anything. Tried using a magnet and going down between the rods without luck. Panic set in.


We then decided to remove the rocker box and the rods and remove the cam follower. After removing the rear cam follower and pulling the rods we could see the metal in the pan. That was a sigh of relief. My buddy and I then put a magnet down inside the block and fished out the piece of metal.

The next part is what became very stressful. After looking at the cam follower, we saw a gasket and called cummins and they told me there was 2 shims for the cam follower. Went down and picked them up and when we got back home, we could feel a significant difference in the shim thickness between what we bought and what was on the truck. Spent hours on the phone with cummins. Cummins was almost no help. The cummins shop Gave me only 2 shims, when there is a number of different shims for the nhc 250. There was no markings on the old shims seeing they prolly were not replaced since the engine was put in the truck.

I bought a micrometer and we measured the shims and came to 0.66. Well the shims I had measure 0.47 which If the shims are the wrong thickness it can throw the timing off and cause a huge issue.

The shims on the truck that measures 0.66 were not ones you could get for the small cam. And cummins wouldn't give me the shims for a big cam because it didn't match what their manual said. After arguing with them and telling them the block is the same, it's not an internal shim, it's external it shouldn't matter, they still wouldn't ship them.

So luckily I was able to secure 3-0.22 shims to get to the 0.66 I needed. We then were able to reassemble the engine and do the overhead. Sad part is the overhead was out of adjustment but not by alot. So we did alot of work that probably wasn't necessary. However, I did learn alot on this big roadblock.


1) make sure to have angled feeler gauges because spacing on rear cylinders is not alot even with cab jacked up.

2) Don't waste your time dealing with cummins. If you don't know what you need you have to figure it out yourself. I barely got any help from them and the manuals for the nhc 250 are not online. Luckily using the tms got me the torque spec and extra help I needed as well as asking a few in the hobby that run these trucks. So thank you to those that helped.

I can say truck runs better now then it did when I drove it home.

Photo taken after reassembly and got some nice sunset photos.

That is terrifying. You and your buddies are intrepid folks.

 

[muthkw25]

That is terrifying. You and your buddies are intrepid folks.

Thanks ohsmily. It was a nightmare. I initially wanted to pull the pan, would have been less stressful but overall I learned alot. Sometimes we are put in stressful situations and it helps us grow. This was one of those times.

 

[muthkw25]

I decided to paint most of the truck with a roller. Now that the body has bedliner, I thought using s roller works. It won't show roller or brush marks and I can layer it more thick than using a paint gun. I also didn't lose any paint to aersolizing and having to thin the paint. I used 1 gallon for the bed and whatever was left over for the bed sides. Turned out really nice so far.



Tonight I got the cab, windshield, bumper, doors, hardtop done. More photos to come. Used another 3/4 gallon.

Overall happy with rolling. I don't normally do brush or roller but this made sense when having a expired bedliner on the surface. I have 4 1/4 gallons of paint left. Plan is to do more rolling Thursday, then get the truck outside either Friday or Sat to power wash the frame and then finish the frame and other spots with the paint gun.