• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

New 1008 brought home /w light problem

zusmc

New member
16
0
1
Location
Satatesville/NC
This truck looks great!!!! I had hauled from Ft Bragg today from DRMO. Drives good around the house and shifts in and out of FWD drive good. I have one problem though, no lights. I flipped the switch up and pull the light out and nothing!!!! No head,brake, or tail. Any ideas where to start??? I can do minor mechanical work , but electrical stuff scares me . I hope it's maybe just a fuse!!!! Thanks Alan....will try and take pics later today to post of the truck.
 

CCATLETT1984

New member
3,507
5
0
Location
Saint Clair Shores, MI
if none of the lights work, check fuses first, then it could be a relay under the dash that went bad. I doubt that its a grounding issue because each corner of the truck lighting has its own ground to the body. the main body to chassis ground is on the passenger side of the engine compartment its on the radiator support and attaches to the frame rail just below where the alternator is located.
 

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
0
Location
Western NY
Step 1: Make sure you realize that you have to pull OUT on the switch before you flip it up.

Step 2: The headlight fuse handles the ENTIRE blackout system. Check that fuse.
 

mcne2026

Member
70
1
6
Location
Kuna, ID
Every time my blackout light gets switched down to blackout, it blows my lights fuse. Must be a ground issue somewhere for me. Check your fuse first. If you don't need blackout mode, just epoxy the blackout switch in the up position to keep it from getting switched down by accident. Worked well for me and I don't want to spend hours looking for the ground issue on the blackouts.
 

ida34

Well-known member
4,117
30
48
Location
Dexter, MI
Thats the problem. The blackout light circuit is shorting to ground. Of course it is a ground issue. aua
 

zusmc

New member
16
0
1
Location
Satatesville/NC
man i hate eletrical stuff!!!!!! I pulled all the 30 amp fuses and they looked good to me(none burnt into). My fuse box doesnt have a lid so the little lettering stating what everything is is kinda faded so i pulled both of them . Anyone have a pic of the fuse box? Is the relay ya'll were talking about the silver round piece with 12v stamped on it at the bottom? I also noticed when i crank it that the 2nd gen light doesn't come on when ignition is switched on, i switched the bulb from the 1st one that does work and it still doesnt light up.
 

mangus580

New member
6,010
282
0
Location
Western NY
Ok... just needed to make sure.

Another thing i have noticed, is the fuse box can have poor contact on the headlight fuse....
 

dilvoy

Active member
733
25
28
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
How about cycling any and all electrical switches forty or fifty times to clean up any internal contacts that might be crusty or just check any ground wiring near the radiator support?
 

BKinzey

New member
225
2
0
Location
Hollywood, CA
dilvoy said:
How about cycling any and all electrical switches forty or fifty times to clean up any internal contacts that might be crusty or just check any ground wiring near the radiator support?
That might help but I think getting some spray contact cleaner and dielectric grease would work better. Spray all your switches and re-grease those that need it. Check for loose or corroded connections, etc.
 

M1009CUCV

New member
9
0
0
SOUNDS LIKE A GROUND PROBLEM I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY M1008 BECAUSE THE BASE REWIRED THE LIGHTS FOR A PLOW I FOUND ALL THEY DID WAS LEFT A GROUND OFF AND CAUSED THE LIGHTS NOT TO WORK
 

Michael

Active member
1,348
24
38
Location
Fulton, MS
You need to print page 275 of this TM:

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=8

Appendix F has the circuit diagrams. If none of the lights work then it would have to be 4 fuses blown (or missing). If none of the above has fixed anything, I would consider checking the main wiring harness connector on the firewall next to the master cylinder. Another possibility is the headlight switch itself. They are known to go bad.
 

Michael

Active member
1,348
24
38
Location
Fulton, MS
While thinking about your problem, it occurred to me that there are several things to keep in mind when troubleshooting a problem on a truck fresh from DRMO.

Parts may be missing. Apparently it is easier to get a light bulb or fuse from a deadlined MV than it is to requisition a new one.

Sub assembly may not be put back together properly. I have seen several cases were a repair was attempted or a part removed and then things were just kind of half assed put back together. The worse example that happened to me was were the left lockout hub had been removed. I didn't have a take off at the time so I bought a new one which came in a set of two. I didn't want a new one on one side and the old one on the other so I decided to replace both of them and while I was at it I decided to do a complete service of both hubs. When I took the right hub off, I found that it was held on with only one nut that wasn't even tight. There should be two with a lock ring between them.

Many of these trucks haven't run in years. They just sit out in the weather, many without doors, windshields hoods etc. This leads to bad grounds and corrosion in switches and connectors.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks