NV4500 Swap with part numbers

[schwenk industries]

So a few weeks after I bought my M1009 the TH400 took a crap. I figured no better time to swap to a NV4500. I searched SS here and about every other forum about trucks and off-roading I could find. Could not find a detailed write up about any modifications or part numbers needed to complete the swap.(as far as I could see) Most info I found usually was along the lines of “oh yea with that adapter it all bolts right up!”(what adapter!) So I've decided to lay down everything I've found along theway including part numbers so you don't have to guess. I am busy withwork lately but I will add to this article as often as I have sparetime. Please pardon my grammar/ Spelling I'm a mechanic not a deskjockey.


I will be out lining a Automatic TH400/NP208 swap to a Manual NV4500/NP208 with stockstyle GM (1973-1984) mechanical clutch linkage instead of hydraulic (1985-UP). In a 1984 K5 M1009. Using the original T-case and as many off the shelf GM stock parts as possible. Most parts can be scavenged from a junkyard or purchased from either NAPA or LMC truck.


Trans: is a 1993-1995 GM 4WD NV4500 that has the 5.125 dia. Bearing retainer with a long throw-outbearing snout identical to the SM-465 input shaft and bearing retainer snout. 1996 and up transmissions have a 5.6” dia. Bearing retainer and no throw out bearing snout.



Bellhousing: I used an Advanced Adapters #712577 bellhousing (1993-1995) not to be confused with #712576 (1996-up)

-Also AA #715534 bracket (the AA bellhousing is not tapped for the bell crank ball stud)


(a complete list of parts and numbers will come at the end)


First thing obviously is going to be to drop your driveshafts and remove your old TH400 split the transfercase off the back and save that for later. I removed all the shiftlinkage (up to the steering column) Trans-cooler lines for the auto,and vac line for the modulator.


The Pedals: I Went to my favorite local junkyard that seems to keep square body GM trucks in stock any 73-84 manual GM truck should do. I pulled the drivers seat and steering column completely out of the truck to make my life easy. (you can probably wiggle the pedal bracket out with the column just laying on the floor.) Then you take the four bolts off your power brake booster and remove your pedal bracket. If you can torch the rivets that hold the bell crank bracket to frame, do so it is one of those hard to find parts, take it and pay the man for all this:
-Pedal assembly brake/clutch-------This part is not commonly available other than at a yard.
-Upper clutch rod
-Bell-crank
-Both bell-crank ball studs
-Bell crank frame bracket----This part is not commonly available other than at a yard. GM# 06264942
-Clutch return spring
-Clutch adjuster/Lower push rod Parts From a 1967-72 GM Truck. While your at the yard.
-Lower Clutch rod GM # 3996513
-Lower Clutch rod nut GM #3765322




To install pedal assy. Do the same as you did at the junk yard and install the new assembly from the yard where yours was. Up until here everything is straight forward and can be looked up in theTm's... More to add later.

 

[schwenk industries]

Sadly I already installed the pedals before I got the idea to record all this so there are no pictures of it going in. Ideally you won't be a Hack and you will pick up a manual steering column when your at the yard. I'ma hack and used the auto column anyways. I don't remember why I punched one of the welded studs out of my pedal bracket and used a thru bolt but you'll figure out why when you get there. Now the manual pedal bracket is larger and hugs closer to the column then the auto style. Some of the wiring on the top of the column had to be moved and re-taped to get it out of the way. The hi/Low beam switch also was in the way. Seeing as I prefer the old floor switch I removed the column unit and rerouted the wires down to the floor. (the existingharness is long enough). The factory GM floor switch for the older trucks plugs in with slight modification to the plug so it clears thefloor. (NAPA# ECH DS115) now everything is bolted in wires clear,column reinstalled. We'll switch back to the drive train.

 

[schwenk industries]

The bellhousing as stated is an Advanced Adapters #712577 with the bell crank bracket #715534 that you need because the side of the bellhousing is not tapped for the bellcrank stud. Every thread I have read about doing NV swaps people say “yea you gotta use the AA bellhousing” that's about all they tell you. The only Bellhousing that will work on the NV behind a 6.2 is the AA yes they are correct. But the bellhousing dose not fit a 6.2 out of the box. There is not enough clearance for the starter's nose. Best method for identifying your clearance issue is to take a sharpie or bluing and cover the trouble area. Place the housing up on the dowels and rock it back and forth to leave a mark.

I used a die grinder with a carbide burr to slowly open up the casting. I highly recommend using a bee's wax or similar product to keep the aluminum from loading up your burr. Eat away at the areas that are leaving a mark re-blue the area and test fit continue working the area until you have a clean fit.

I also had a couple holes that where not drilled or tapped deep enough for the Trans-bell bolts. Just take a tap and finish the job.

 

[schwenk industries]

No we're not done with the bellhousing yet! You should know you can't buy anything that just works like it's supposed to. The AA Linkage bracket #715534 Dosn't really just bolt up to their own bellhousing. Where the main bracket bolts down the lower hole is 3/16' away from the bell casting. If the tab is bent down to meet the face you will shorten the bracket and the holes will not line up you need to make a 3/16 spacer to back it up.



The arm to reinforce the bracket that bolts to the trans is not formed correctly at all, the angles are wrong, the lengths are wrong and the holes are all wrong. The front angle needs to be re-bent and the rear ear cutoff and then shortened 3/16 inch and moved forward ¼ inch and welded back on. I recommend bolting both parts on and tacking in location after re-forming and re-sizing.

 

[schwenk industries]

Now that the bellhousing is preped and has good clearance around the starter, the bellcrank bracket has been test fitted. We'll install the flywheel and clutch set. I used a single mass stock 12” 6.2 flywheel Napa # NCF 88201 The original Flex plate bolts are not long enough and the head is to tall so they need to be replaced, (you where going to replace those any ways right?) Napa # NOE 6151554. The stock 12” clutch set Napa called it 11 7/8” # NCF 1104128. Pressure plate bolts are 3/8-16. A oilite pilot bushing was used instead of the pilot bearing supplied with the kit. Napa # BRG B65. The Flywheel to crank bolt torque is 65 ft. lbs. and the clutch PP to flywheel bolt torque is 30 ft. lbs. I used blue Locktite on both. I double checked pilot engagement and the pilot bearing should be seated flushwith the inner surface.



I'm not going to go into any great detail about shoving the trans in that all goes together as any stock manual would. So we'll assume you have your new pedals installed,Flywheel, pilot bushing, and clutch set, and trans all mounted and torqued down. I installed the trans separate from the T-case to make it more manageable, and supported the back end on a screw jack. The clutch bellcrank bracket uses two of the bellhousing bolts to mount it, so don't forget that. Install the bell crank bracket reinforcing bar. Now assemble your bellcrank/frame-end ball stud if you took them apart, bolt the stud into your bracket. If you could not remove a bracket while you where at the yard the GM part # is 06264942 slide the bellcrank over the engine ball stud and bolt the bracket on. I will have to pick up from here tomorrow with more pictures and measurements.

 

[Wrecked1982]

good tread! i love nv4500 swap.i am slowly gathering parts to do the same on my m1008, i have read somewhere that you could use the starter cone nose from a 6.2 manual truck and that it was smaller that the auto trans. starter cone and that it should fit without grinding the aa bellhousing. but i have yet to find a 6.2 manual starter to try it and to see if its really true.

 

[schwenk industries]

Never heard about the diffrent nose cones, that's intresting I would have figured they are all the same. It did not bother me grinding it out seeing as it is below the block where the bell mounts anyways. I will be finnishing this swap up I hate when threads are left unfinnished. I have had a lot of work lately and have not had time to get back at it. I Will be back at it in a couple weeks probably.

 

[KtK]

Following this thread. Continuously searching this topic to get eveything i need lined up and this one has been pretty darn helpful. Thanks for posting pics and part numbers!