• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

Over heating M1009

choll

Member
387
5
18
Location
Las Vegas,NV
Greetings everyone
Its been a while since I have been here, took the 09 off the road for about 2 years as I got struck with the humvee fever. Any way two months ago I put the 09 back on the road to do a 1400 mile road trip with it. I drove it about 1200 miles to get any bugs worked out before I decided to drive from NJ to New Orleans no issues to talk about until 150 miles from NO.
The truck started to over heat and there was antifreeze everywhere, I assume from driving 65mph.

Any way I can not pinpoint where it is coming from so I add water and continue to New Orleans. When I get to hotel I start going over everything. Im thinking blown head gasket, the is no water in the oil. I add water again and the cooling is working fine until I need to add water again. I see coolant leaking from the overflow because of a crack in plastic. there is no coolant in the valley or coming from water pump.

When I look in the overflow the coolant is moving with slight bubbles. After the motor cools when I look in the radiator, the coolant is low about a quart. When I open the radiator cap you can hear the pressure release. So with the pressure still in the rad 8 hours later what are every ones thoughts. Im still thinking head gasket but I cant see a leak or drips coming from the motor anywhere
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
911
631
93
Location
Rochester NY
I'd also take a hard look at the thermostat, if it gets stuck closed it will overheat really quick.
Another problem area is the lower rad hose, running down the X-way at high RPM's will cause a slight vacuum in the lower hose and unless it has a spring in it or reinforcing ribs it can get sucked closed.
Get that overflow replaced! When the engine is hot the coolant expands and goes into the jug, as the engine cools down it sucks the coolant back into the engine.
Don't forget the obvious, the fan belt!
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
898
1,375
93
Location
York Pa
I'd be curious if your cap was releasing some coolant out to the overflow and it came out of that since you said it leaks or the hose to it has one in it. My trucks like to sit about 5 6 inches below the cap.
 

choll

Member
387
5
18
Location
Las Vegas,NV
Well everyone its a head gasket on the passenger side. a little surprised as this motor has less then 30k the one it replaced had 343,000. I sourced a used motor, it came out of a cucv also. How many hours should it take to pull old and put replacement in. nothing needs to be swaped off motor except starter.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
898
1,375
93
Location
York Pa
That stinks!!! So your gonna swap the motor out for another. I do these in about 3 4 hours depending on exhaust fight which the blue tipped wrench always wins. I think the most helpful thing would be park it where you're gonna pull it and pop the drain on the radiator...let it drain overnight or several hours...nothing more miserable than plucking around in gallons of antifreeze.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

choll

Member
387
5
18
Location
Las Vegas,NV
That stinks!!! So your gonna swap the motor out for another. I do these in about 3 4 hours depending on exhaust fight which the blue tipped wrench always wins. I think the most helpful thing would be park it where you're gonna pull it and pop the drain on the radiator...let it drain overnight or several hours...nothing more miserable than plucking around in gallons of antifreeze.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
Is that 3-4 total or just pulling it?
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
898
1,375
93
Location
York Pa
Is that 3-4 total or just pulling it?
Total for sure...but I've been doing this for decades and have everything I need to do it. If you haven't done it before I always start removing all wiring first then it doesn't look as bad. Another thing I do after pulling the torque converter bolts is make sure to push the converter off the flywheel button. I have sprayed a few and make sure they spin easy, doesn't hurt to throw a strap in there so the converter doesn't fall out when you pull the motor of it. I hook it to the flywheel cover bolts. I use a jack with a chunk of wood on the trans pan too so it doesn't fall...lock the parking brake. If you lock everything in place it makes going back in much easier. Oh and if you don't have a 4 foot 3/8 extension get one it makes getting the bell housing bolts very easy getting them from under the truck.
 

adf5565

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
337
615
93
Location
Tioga, PA
Are you doing both sides or just the passanger side head gasket? For just the passenger side you’d be able to get by with leaving the motor in but it still sucks doing it that way.

It took me ~3 hours just to pull the motor which is definitely worth doing if you’re doing both gaskets. Maybe an hour or a more for each side for cleaning/prep, maybe 30 to install the gasket/head, and then a few more hours to get the motor back in. But it was my first time doing it so it was probably longer than it should’ve been.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,207
1,886
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
You can do both gaskets in the truck. Pull the heads with the exhaust manifolds attached.

The problem is that you'll likely find damage from the fire rings fretting on the top deck of the block. The block may need to be resurfaced.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks