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Whenever possible, I always record the serial number when I want something rebuilt to make sure I get the same unit back.
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Question about Rebuilt(?) TH-400
- Thread starter HelluvaEngineer
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I hardly ever use first gear. It labors a bit on the 2-3 change but it's livable. I think the closer ratios in the NV4500 will be an asset.
HelluvaEngineer
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Nope, just didn't install it. Even though I left a note about the new pan in a box, in the truck. Obviously someone was not paying attention.
I took it back to the shop on Thursday. We'll see what they say. I suspect I'll have to have that other shop in Roswell tear it down and photograph everything so that I can dispute / sue.
cucvrus
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I would not deal with a shop that I don't trust. same as people that I send parts to and trust them to pay me. That is not happening anymore from this end. I have a man that rebuilds my transmissions and differentials. 1 catch I do the R & R. He does not want vehicles at his business only the components. That works for me. It is a simple task to remove things and it is always an opportunity for updates, painting and cleaning everything as you go. Time spent is time well spent and it pays in the long run to do it right the first time. Every move counts and money spent where it is needed is most important. Have a Great Day. And as far a pictures I went to the transmission shop and my 2007 CVPI had a transmission issue. I dropped it off and said let me know what it needs. He called me 2 days later on my day off. I was driving to have lunch with my Wife. I asked do I go to the steak house or McDonald's? He said just stop by. I did and a 25' table that had my transmission disassembled from the case to the tail shaft was there. he walked me down the isle and showed me the destruction inside. I said fix it and he said the price. Short of shoveling the parts into a scrap bin I felt no choice. A salvage yard transmission was not an option because I know the issues CVPI transmissions have. I went home and had Peanut Butter and Jelly and life was good. The car was great for many years after and I sold it to a friend that was moving to California. As far as I know it is still going and never looked back. Sometime the sting of a high priced item is better then the agony of doing things half fast. I live that rule on everything I do. Once and done. Drive on.
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Ditto what Rick said. Find a shop with plenty of real human being references you can speak with. If a shop doesn't or will not have references, keep on moving. Pay the money and have peace of mind. If you don't have the cash, sell something and get it. Nothing is more scary than to be miles and miles from the nearest road hauling out an elk, in the middle of nowhere in Wyoming, at 2:30 in the morning, -15 below zero and snowing on top of an already foot of snowpack, with just enough fuel to get back to civilization, with no food or water or toilet paper, and suddenly having your transmission start to slip. Ask me how I know. Believe me - spend the money and get the tranny rebuilt correctly by a reputable shop. The cost is secondary.
Hope this helps.
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cucvrus
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He built me a HD truck transmission. Another one of them deals where the rear tires were always bald. I am Guilty. It could fry the 17" Eagles. Wonder where the Son got it from? 1 life, Live it. I had a shop that serviced CVPI's and they were not allowed to plug or patch police departments tires. They needed core tires to turn in and I had a steady supply. We traded 1 for 1. Some where brand new and some where 3/4 tread. Never ran out. Off subject but after the new transmission was in it ran better then it ever did. Stayed in first and shifted out perfect in high speed pursuit. Pursuit of fresh Coffee. This has been my experience with CUCV's also without the tire frying of course.Nothing wrong with the 4R75W....
Panther platform for the win.
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LT67
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Tires are too expensive to fry lol... and yes, fresh coffee is a must have in the mornings. The caffeine gets my brain going for what needs attention next on the cucv trucks lol
cucvrus
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I still like a tire frying car. I had many ex police cars in my life. The old Plymouth Gran Fury 440 with a 727 transmission and a Dana 60 rear axle. With the transmission shift linkage locked out you could only go into drive. It was virtually bullet proof. Of all the cars I had the older 70's Chrysler product took the most abuse and ran forever. After the introduction of OD transmissions things went down hill fast with hard use and abuse. Up to and including one of my all time favorites the 1988 Caprice with the FI 350 and OD transmission. Would smoke the tires in 1-3 gear but the transmission was an issue when I bought the car. Some vehicles are just prone to transmission issues. Beating them and hard use push them into unworthiness much faster. I grew out of that. I think. I can quickly retune myself. Take Care and Be Safe. Brand name tires fry the longest and best.
HelluvaEngineer
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Quick follow up on this. A different guy, their "builder" is working on the transmission. He replaced the governor. I see one reference online saying they can cause a whine, but more importantly it controls the 1-2 shift, which was borked for sure. He's waiting to test drive it tomorrow (we're having major thunderstorms) and see if it's still making noise. The shop sounded cautiously optimistic. Good chance there are other issues. Thinking though that if he replaced that part he didn't see a metal in the pan.
LT67
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No, we're having a monsoon in Ga lol
If I'm correct the governor for a diesel is different than a gas burner
chevymike
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Yes they are different. Diesel is setup for a lower RPM range than the gas version.
HelluvaEngineer
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Quick update: governor was replaced, then the valve body was replaced. The noise still persists and it's not shifting correctly (still). The tech is taking the whole thing out and rebuilding it again, not per my request - they seem to be trying to make things right. I'm glad another guy is working on it this time.
HelluvaEngineer
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Side note: drove past a few gas stations today. All of them had no gas. My first thought was "I miss my diesel!" I saw a couple of Mexican landscapers filling up medium-duty trucks as old ladies pulled in only to be perplexed that their sedan could not be filled up.
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I have five 5-gallon cans of diesel in the shed. I figure I can go about two months driving to work (four days a week) if the M1009 tank is full at the start.
HelluvaEngineer
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Finally got the M1009 back today. Over two months later. Removed three times total from the truck. Many parts swapped out. It now starts in first, shifts well in all three gears. Downshift is not quite as aggressive as I would like.
However, there is a new issue. There's a quite noticeable vibration at approx 30 mph. I was worried about flexplate timing but it revs smoothly. Is it possible to get the drive shafts out of phase somehow? I quickly looked under it (it's 90 degrees and raining here) for any broken rubber mounts/ missing bolts etc but nothing was jumping out at me. Any feedback is appreciated.
However, there is a new issue. There's a quite noticeable vibration at approx 30 mph. I was worried about flexplate timing but it revs smoothly. Is it possible to get the drive shafts out of phase somehow? I quickly looked under it (it's 90 degrees and raining here) for any broken rubber mounts/ missing bolts etc but nothing was jumping out at me. Any feedback is appreciated.
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I had an '86 Ranger my dad gave me that had driveline vibration. I put it up on the jackstands and sure enough the driveshaft was out of phase. Dad was surprised because his regular mechanic insisted they marked the driveshaft when they took it out.
Make sure all the u-joints line up.
JD4044M
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Google Indexing/phasing Driveshaft's there will be pictures of the right way. You want them to be opposite so each one compliments the other turning and not binding. Make sure all the u/joints are seated the same.
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LT67
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Yes, if the driveshaft isn't in correctly it will cause a vibration
cucvrus
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I know I mentioned it before. But here we go again.
Are the C clips on the trunnion caps that are in the axle yoke? These need to be in place to keep the U joint centered and correctly in place. Clean the yoke thoroughly so that the C clips can center and seat properly. Just bolting the straps down tight will not hold the U joint centered. I hope this helps. And also a small dent in the drive shaft cause a vibration. Good Luck.