Questions about the M116 trailer

[forest522]

Good day,

I just picked up a very basic M116 trailer with a steel deck. The pintle has been removed and replaced with a two inch standard ball hitch assembly and the whole thing was painted some green color. Most of the paint came off with a good pressure washing. The rest of the unit looks to be complete.


I am new to the world of trailers and have browsed much of this forum for intel. But I'd like to confirm a few things.

1. The M116 is a 3/4 frame trailer, used in a variety of ways, some of which change the designation depending on what was put on it. Eg, 101 or 105.

2. The original m116, has no brakes other than the hand brakes...correct?

3. Though not optimal for towing by an M1009, I plan on light loads such as a camping gear trailer set up and the very occasional yard of mulch or gravel. Based upon my reading in this forum, that seems to be acceptable. Correct?

4. Continuing that thought, as long as I stay 'light' - I define that as about 2000 lbs - I should be fine.

5. I would like a spare tire for this unit. Are they difficult to find?

That is the start of my thoughts, anyone have anything to add? Your comments and advice are appreciated! Thanks, Forest522

 

[3dAngus]

Most have surge brakes. They probably removed it when they did the cutting on the pintle.
If you haul gravel and such, don't try to use the tilt feature as it is not designed to dump with a load. You might crack the undercarriage or rear lights.
Wheels/tires are easy enough to find, depending on area. You could always advertise for one on here in the classifieds, but being on the Pacific coast can be a killer for shipping so hopefully someone in the local area will have a spare for you. Everybody needs a spare. I would not want to ever leave home without one, even if it's a bad spare, that simply holds air. It can get you to a shop.
No 105 in there. That is a completely different animal.
Looks like a nice trailer. It would be even better if it had surge brakes. The ball is nice for resale value as it opens it up to resell to a much broader audience.
Beats the heck out of a Lowes trailer. The 5 lug version axle indicates it was an A1 version, and not an A2. They were built in the 50's and 60s and even in the 70s and you're right, they did not have the surge brakes on that older version trailer. The key note of your trailer that makes it special today is the fact it has been modified with the ball hitch, and the 5 lug wheels are compatible with the M-37, 3/4 ton Dodge pickup, made in the 50's and 60's, making them even more desireable. Someone probably put some cheap household paint on it.
Enjoy!

 

[forest522]

Thanks! Checking the data plate, there is nothing in the space for Date of Manufacture. Bummer, that would be nice to know.

The wheels are big, I like the military look and would rather not replace them if I don't have too. The issue will be finding a spare.

I heard something about these wheels being unusual to remount tires onto...a compression ring or something like that...?

Is it worth looking into how to install surge brakes? I am very conscious of the weight and braking issue and will exercise care, but if it is possible, why not add the surge brakes?

 

[3dAngus]

In my opinion, it is not economically feasible to add surge brakes. This means, it would cost more to repair, install, then what the trailer is worth. It is better to buy what you want then to do the repairs, and usually, cheaper.

You have to add the surge brakes, the lines, and replace the axle or hubs to add brakes to a trailer that has no hubs, brakes, or slave cylinders to host such an application. It would become way to complex and expensive to incur such an endeavor, when a M116A2 with the surge brakes on them, and the same type of trailer with different and more readily available wheels and tires, would be about the same price as the repair. Probably about $500 or so.

If you want the surge brakes, my opinion is you should sell your trailer for $400-500 (and usually more on the Pacific Coast where prices are way high), and get another for $500-600 already equipped. Those would be the prices here in the SouthEast. Make the appropriate price adjustments for your area.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Many questions have already been answered but I'll toss an opinion out there. Since you plan on going light, consider an axle swap. You can keep the original stuff to convert it back later if you choose. Going with an axle swap means you can match the bolt pattern on your truck. The factory rims are a split ring design and not familiar to most tire shops.