Remote Brake Reservoir with Bleeder?

Tinwoodsman

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I was unable to find an answer to my question via search so here goes! I purchased the components for my remote brake reservoir from Wilwood Engineering. I would now like to see if I can make it compatible with my power bleeder. I checked with Wilwood and they do not have any type of cap to allow this. A picture of my reservoir is attached. Any suggestions?
 

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Recovry4x4

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In the line under the reservoir, install a tee with a small ball valve right below the reservoir and a ball valve on the side of the tee. Connect the bottom of the tee, via hose, to the master cylinder cap. When you need to bleed you can attach the bleeder to the side ball valve. Open the side valve and close the bottom valve under the reservoir and pressure it up.
 

Tinwoodsman

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Thanks for the recommendation. Would it work if I install a ball valve below the reservoir followed by a tee. Off the side of the tee I would install the female connector and off the bottom of the tee I would connect the hose to the M/C. On my Bleeder I would install the male connector after the ball valve.

When bleeding, I would close the ball valve under the reservoir, plug in the male connector and bleed. This would negate the need for a second ball valve. Any problems you can see with this approach?
 

Tinwoodsman

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Here is another option I thought of doing. I have assembled the fitting on the M/C cap for photo purposes but they would be added as allowed during installation. Deuceman51 and I hashed this over and he was concerned about dirt infiltration into the female connector. I have a rubber boot to protect the opening which I think would eliminate the problem.

The ball valve would be installed in the reservoir line. When I need to bleed the system, I would close the ball valve and connect the male receptacle on the bleeder to the female on the M/C caps. I am considering this option because it is the cleanest installation saving the most space in the cab while still providing fluid level visability. Thoughts?
 

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Recovry4x4

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I think the checkvalve would work as would your second setup. You could always use a plug in the side of the side tee instead of a ball valve. I have pondered over where to put the reservoir and I think I'm putting mine on the firewall under the hood. I already open the sise panel on pre-trips anyways, I can check the level right there and keep the cab uncluttered. Just have to make sure stuff is really clean. Second thought, the checkvalve may restrict fluid return when brakes are deactivated.
 

Tinwoodsman

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Kenny, I think I am following you but must ask, are the check valve you refer to and the quick connect the same thing. It would seem that if I locate the female quick disconnect off my M/C cap, it would not be a factor when nothing is connected to it and the ball valve at the reservoir is open. Is my head on straight with this?

As for the location. I plan on installing a NOS heater kit later. I have considered the firewall as a reservoir locations but do not want it to interfere with the heater. I also open the side doors pre-trip so it would be easy to check.
 

leroygreen

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Yes, I bought the same wilwood components as you did. I also wanted to use my powerbleeder so just under the reservoir is a ball valve then the tee with the female air line fitting. Its easy to hook up and check. My only concern was the air fitting leaking but so far no leaks.
 
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mightymanx

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buy a second cap
drill it
install a "bulkhead fitting" and nipple to fit your bleeder hose
(available at your local hardware store)
screw on new home made "bleeder cap"
bleed
put on regular cap
drive
stop on demand
 

RangerDave

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Here's what I ended up doing for a remote... a pair of plow hydraulic quick disconnects just below the reservoir and the reservoir mounted in the engine compartment. It worked pretty slick after I rebuilt the system.... Just connect your power bleeder and purge the system. Reconnect when done.
 

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roger-wilco-66

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Hmmm, a few months ago I had an idea to build a remote reservoir which could be put under pressure itself (bicycle pump, maybe even tapped air from the deuce airsystem and a low pressure relief valve)....hmmmm....
 
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