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Replacing brake fluid

cranetruck

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I have decided that changing brake fluid would be a good thing.
Does any of you have any experience with the vacuum bleeder methode?
I have seen the hand operated vacuum bleeders on ebay and other places for about $30. Are they worth it or should I invest in one that operates on compressed air?

Thanks,
Bjorn
 

rmgill

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I've used a vacuum bleeder. It's not bad, but one needs to be sure to not let the fluid run out in the master cylinder.

What's the deal with the master cylinder filler? Need a screwdriver or a wrench to open the panel, then another wrench to remove the vent tube, then another to remove the cap. What's wrong with a vent going to a filler tube and a screw on cap with a dip stick?
 

73m819

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i moded a pressure bleader to bleed the 819s brakes, it works great
 

cranetruck

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Thanks for bringing it up (Ron, Kenny). I googled "insect sprayer" & "brake bleeding" and got lots of hits.
The MC vent will come in handy to pressurize the system (Kenny).

May have gotten some water in the system after the fording last year and never got around to do anything about it.

Bjorn
 

73m819

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i got my bleeder off ebay, i can do the 819s brakes in about 20 min. once its all set up.i made the pressure hose longer, replaced the air vent fittind with a nipple and a male quick disconnect, i put the female on the pressure hose, i did it this way so i can work the fill without a lot of twristing on the pressure hose, i leave the fill plug LOUSE, plug in the pressure hose then build up pressure, i let fluid and air leak past the fill plug till all the air is out, then tighten it, i use 25 to 30 lbs of pressure, i do one axle then as im going to the next one i check the pressure (maybe give it a pump or two). about 20 min. to set up and about 20 min to bleed, 20 min. to pack up,when im done , disconnect, dump the pressure, i leave the fluid in the bleeder, put another female disconnect with my vent line attached on the master cyl. male and im done, everything goes up in the the trucks tool box for the next time
 

rdixiemiller

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All
I have used both pressure and vacuum bleeders over the years. I prefer the pressure type, because the vacuum type can pull in air around a wheel cylinder cup. Normally this is a problem on an older truck, where you might be working on one wheel only.
Just my 2 cents worth.
You can build a pressure bleeder rig outr of scrap 2-4 inch black pipe. Take a section of pipe about 1 foot long, screw a cap on each end. Drill and tap the bottom cap for 1/8 npt brake fitting from your local parts house. Drill 3 holes in the top cap. 1 for a fill plug, 1 for an air fitting, get a 45 psi pop off valve from McMaster Carr for the last hole. This is to prevent over pressurizing things. Use a flexible brake hose to go from the bottom pipe cap to the vent hole on the ,master cyl. hook up an air line from your compressor (shop or truck) with a little in-line air regulator. Fill pipe with brake fluid. Hook to master cyl. pressurize to about 15 psi. bleed away. I added a couple of valves to the one I built years ago to allow me to valve off the air, fluid, etc.
Use common sense ( we all have some, right?) and you are perfectly OK.
 

Recovry4x4

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OK Gang, just got the shipping info from Angelo at Muttparts. Its costing me $18.38 to have 2 gallons of BFS shipped from NY to FL. You can gauge that as far as shipping costs vs fluid at the local NAPA. I always keep a sealed gallon here. As soon as it's opened, I order more. Another source is Ottocraft (formerly Sam Werner) in Tracy City TN. Last I checked it was $30 a gallon or $25 a gallon if you bought a case of 4. Hope this helps.
 
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