rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
Anyone know of a 24 volt spec fuel solenoid that'll handle the fuel rates our dueces use and are 6 port type?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Source for 24 Volt 6 pFuel Solenoid Normally in one position
- Thread starter rmgill
- Start date
rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
RE: Source for 24 Volt 6 pFuel Solenoid Normally in one posi
Ok, I've found the Pollack folks but I'm a bit worried about not having a reliable valve system. Fiberglass body? Huh? Why not brass.
A pair of 24 vdc 3 way valves could work. Question is if they'll work with the fuel return pressure near zero. Bjorn, you had this problem didn't you?
Ok, I've found the Pollack folks but I'm a bit worried about not having a reliable valve system. Fiberglass body? Huh? Why not brass.
A pair of 24 vdc 3 way valves could work. Question is if they'll work with the fuel return pressure near zero. Bjorn, you had this problem didn't you?
rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
RE: Source for 24 Volt 6 pFuel Solenoid Normally in one posi
One other thought is that for utter reliability, perhaps I should go with a manual valve on the floor of the truck like the 5 tons? I think I've found a 6 port diverter valve (x2 3 ports stacked) in one body.
One other thought is that for utter reliability, perhaps I should go with a manual valve on the floor of the truck like the 5 tons? I think I've found a 6 port diverter valve (x2 3 ports stacked) in one body.
JDToumanian
Active member
- 1,655
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Phelan, CA
Hi Ryan,
Ford trucks with dual fuel tanks use the Pollack tank switching valves. They are well made and very reliable, I have two of them on my trucks, an '85 and an '86. A few years ago I replaced the one on my '85, the one on the '86 is still original and working. So they last 20+ years, and they're not expensive... Order them from J.C. Whitney, they're less than half the price of Napa.
Regards,
Jon
Ford trucks with dual fuel tanks use the Pollack tank switching valves. They are well made and very reliable, I have two of them on my trucks, an '85 and an '86. A few years ago I replaced the one on my '85, the one on the '86 is still original and working. So they last 20+ years, and they're not expensive... Order them from J.C. Whitney, they're less than half the price of Napa.
Regards,
Jon
- 10,350
- 74
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Ryan, I installed several types of valves for use to select supply tank.
The most reliable are the "direct acting" types and the main one I ended up with and which worked reliably during my 5,800 mile cross country trip was the Barksdale dirt tolerant, direct acting 3-way valve shown in the images below. A separate 50 amp relay was used to energize the valve since the inrush current was in the order of 15 to 20 amps. A valve very compatible with the deuce's plumbing to say the least. Also it's good to 40 below temps.
The image showing the valve installed on the frame is a bit messy, it was taken when we (Leonard and myself) had the transmission out and was working on replacing the seal.
A smaller direct acting 3-way valve handles the return fuel since it works with well filtered fuel.
Everything purchased on e-bay a fraction of the original cost.
The most reliable are the "direct acting" types and the main one I ended up with and which worked reliably during my 5,800 mile cross country trip was the Barksdale dirt tolerant, direct acting 3-way valve shown in the images below. A separate 50 amp relay was used to energize the valve since the inrush current was in the order of 15 to 20 amps. A valve very compatible with the deuce's plumbing to say the least. Also it's good to 40 below temps.
The image showing the valve installed on the frame is a bit messy, it was taken when we (Leonard and myself) had the transmission out and was working on replacing the seal.
A smaller direct acting 3-way valve handles the return fuel since it works with well filtered fuel.
Everything purchased on e-bay a fraction of the original cost.
Attachments
rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
I'm thinking that a manual valve would be most reliable...but....not as easy to switch. Having to lean down to the floor to move the lever....I'd have to re-route some fuel lines too in order to do it. Hmm....
- 10,350
- 74
- 48
- Location
- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
I use a manual valve, located in line right near the top of the fuel tank. It's the coolant control valve. The "pilot operated" (not direct acting) control valve failed on a trip to Florida and has not yet been replaced.
It will eventually be replaced with a 3-way valve, which switches coolant between the personell heater core and the tank heater coil. It will be installed under the hood for the least amount of hose re-routing.
It will eventually be replaced with a 3-way valve, which switches coolant between the personell heater core and the tank heater coil. It will be installed under the hood for the least amount of hose re-routing.
rmgill
Active member
- 2,479
- 14
- 38
- Location
- Decatur, Ga
Hmm, I'd in reality need 4 valves or two double stacked valves.
Two(or one stacked) on/off valves for coolant flow to that tank and two 3-way for fuel supply/return selection.
Question is where to put them so they're easy to reach. On the floor next to the driver's side wouldn't be bad, but I'd prefer switches. I fear that 4 solenoid valves could get expensive and harder to deal with than a simple valve setup. Hmm.
Two(or one stacked) on/off valves for coolant flow to that tank and two 3-way for fuel supply/return selection.
Question is where to put them so they're easy to reach. On the floor next to the driver's side wouldn't be bad, but I'd prefer switches. I fear that 4 solenoid valves could get expensive and harder to deal with than a simple valve setup. Hmm.