Stanadyne Fuel Filter Heater Circuit/Fuse

[adf5565]

The M1008 I recently purchased had the factory Stanadyne system bypassed/hacked up and replaced with a fairly sketchy (in my opinion, pic attached) filter so I’m upgrading to the Racor 230R1210. I decided to go with the option with built in heater and WIF sensor to keep stock functionality. My question is, does anyone know where the stock fuel heater is fed from or fuse it connects to? I’ve checked the wiring schematic in the repair manual and it doesn’t seem very clear.

The reason I’m asking is that the Parker fuel heater is 200 watts. I was originally intending on tying it into the factory circuit, however that draw seems a bit high. So now I’m leaning towards getting the Parker relay kit but I’m looking for more information/knowledge first.

 

[Skinny]

Really don't need a kit. Just get a relay with a pigtail. Go right off the battery with an inline fuse. Then use a wire that is hot when running to trigger it. The IP solenoid is right there.

 

[adf5565]

Really don't need a kit. Just get a relay with a pigtail. Go right off the battery with an inline fuse. Then use a wire that is hot when running to trigger it. The IP solenoid is right there.

Thanks, yeah I’m going to go that route. I realized that kit was $200 which seems a little absurd.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Yeah, Skinny has the right skinny here. Use the existing wire to trigger a relay, then you don't need to worry about the current capabilities of the original circuit.

 

[Skinny]

Use a relay with a built in fuse. I think I hung mine on a stud that's already on the firewall in the bellhousing indentation. I think I looped the relay ground right to the stud point of attachment.

I forget what I used to trigger it but the IP wire would work. The heater has a built in control so it just needs constant B+. I have a tickler run out from the fuse box to a large relay and fuse bank which I more then likely used. I use that to feed everything that needs switched B+ like my AC and trans controller. I believe I used a spade terminal in one of the fuse box terminals that is switched. All it does is trigger a relay which comes right off the 12v bus bar.

If you have any idea of future wiring additions I'd skip the IP wire and leave it as is. Find a switched terminal at the fuse panel and run a dedicated wire out because you will need it at some point if you add accessories.

 

[adf5565]

Use a relay with a built in fuse. I think I hung mine on a stud that's already on the firewall in the bellhousing indentation. I think I looped the relay ground right to the stud point of attachment.

I forget what I used to trigger it but the IP wire would work. The heater has a built in control so it just needs constant B+. I have a tickler run out from the fuse box to a large relay and fuse bank which I more then likely used. I use that to feed everything that needs switched B+ like my AC and trans controller. I believe I used a spade terminal in one of the fuse box terminals that is switched. All it does is trigger a relay which comes right off the 12v bus bar.

If you have any idea of future wiring additions I'd skip the IP wire and leave it as is. Find a switched terminal at the fuse panel and run a dedicated wire out because you will need it at some point if you add accessories.

I've ordered the relay, once it arrives I'll get the heater hooked up. I probably won't use the IP wire for the trigger, either will use the existing fuel heater wire (as long as when I test it works the way I want) or run it off one of the fuse box terminals. Flexibility for accessories is always a good idea!

 

[Skinny]

I've ordered the relay, once it arrives I'll get the heater hooked up. I probably won't use the IP wire for the trigger, either will use the existing fuel heater wire (as long as when I test it works the way I want) or run it off one of the fuse box terminals. Flexibility for accessories is always a good idea!

You don't realize it when the truck is new to you. Fast forward ten years later and the truck has a radio, in cab inverter, tablet mounted on the dash, trans controller for the 4l80, AC add on, and an aux trans cooler mounted under the truck with three e-fans. All needing one trigger wire to make sure it all turns off when you leave the truck