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Storage containers outdoors

Custer

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I've recently started collecting and filtering wmo. I've purchased several items including (3) 275 gallon poly tank totes to store everything in. My entire setup is outdoors. I receive the oil in mostly 55 gallon barrels and filter to 25 micron into what I call my blend/settle tank. Which is a 275 gallon poly tote. I added 50 gallon of diesel to 200 gallon of wmo. After letting settle for a couple weeks and waiting for a nice warm day here in the great lakes region, I pumped all but the bottom few inches through a 5 micron sock filter into another 275 gallon tote. The oil was still rather thick and didn't flow as well as I'd liked. So, I've read on here before where guys have painted their tanks black to help heat and thin the oil. Thought it sounded reasonable so that's what I did. Now the thing swells like it's gonna blow the lid off it.
And we are expecting over 90 degree sunny days for the next week or so here.

So,.... this might be a rather dumb question. And it might even cause a collective eye roll for those that know the answer.
But could these poly tanks expand enough to cause a crack or deteriorate over time causing weakness and lessen their lifespan?
And what about freezing temps in the winter? Will the plastic get brittle over the years of heating and cooling and potentially cause a huge mess?
Anyone had any bad experiences with poly tank totes?
Thanks in advance.

Custer,
 

eagle4g63

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North/west Indiana
I am running the same set up, however I put my 2 tanks in the back of a M105 trailer, with the canvas top.......it gets like an oven in that thing.....I can leave both the large screw on lids off the containers since they are under tarp and don't have to worry about UV or expanding from the sun.....Also keeps the snow off so I can use the set up in the winter, without the worry about getting snow in them. Been doing it this way for just over 2 years.
 

Recovry4x4

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The hot ticket for this is the enclosed IBC. I had 3, still have 1. It's completely enclosed in galvanised sheemetal. It's pretty cool.
 

doghead

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Allow for expansion. 10% should be enough.

And vent.
 
Last edited:

Beyond Biodiesel

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Prescott, AZ
Poly tanks are sensitive to UV, but painting them black is a good idea to reduce UV damage while increasing IR gain. They will get stiff in the winter, and more likely to crack after a few years outside, so you may want to plan on replacing them every few years.

Keeping your settling tank warm in the winter is going to be rough in Michigan. I have in the past used steel drums that I put on scrap sheets of plywood over scraps of polystyrene insulation, then I put a thin transparent plastic tarp, or bag, over the whole arrangement. It worked great as a solar heated settling system for winter.

Also, blending diesel at only 20% is not going to think your WMO much; however, gasoline will not harm the poly tanks, and at 20% will do a lot more thinning than diesel fuel.

Also, when pumping out a settling tank, it is best to leave the last 10%.
 

Custer

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N. Manchester, Indiana
Thanks everyone for the replies. I assume by venting everyone means to leave the top cap loose? Won't this help promote moisture, especially as it cools in the evenings? Is there a vented, yet sealed cap for these things?

The filtering I'm fine with but water is my number one enemy! Even in my empty, fully closed tanks there's moisture clinging to the inside... I know it'll settle out in oil, and I can drain off the bottom and pull from the top. But want to try and prevent as much moisture from getting in as I can!

I used diesel cause it was actually cheaper and what I had at the time. But will try gas on my next batch since it takes less to thin and is cheaper now. In the winter I plan on having around 250 gallons already filtered to 1 micron. Since I was going to run different ratios at different times of the year. And since each engine might run better at different ratios, I was planning on having a large quantity of (mostly) filtered oil ready on hand before it gets to cold. And would then just add diesel to each application to achieve the best ratio. Convient placement of the setup is somewhat hard to achieve on my property...


My biggest fear is a huge mess by a crack. Or a rock from my mower when brittle. If they only last a couple of years I might want to rethink using them.

Custer,
 

86m1028

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Murphy TEXAS
I'd leave them vented, but on another note, does ultraviolet harm the poly stuff?
Yes it does.
I have one that's been in direct sun for less than 2 years.
Its so brittle that with even 10 gallons of fluid in it you can not move it without it shattering.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
Due to the extreme temp differences where you live I would consider some type of shed over your system. It might cost you up front but will save you money in the long run. It also keeps rain/snow and direct sunlight off your setup. I had two totes that had WVO and UMO in them and they eventually cracked up top and allowed water to get in. I now have a few hundred gallons of fire starter rather than fuel. Your mileage may vary.
 

Beyond Biodiesel

Active member
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Prescott, AZ
Thanks everyone for the replies. I assume by venting everyone means to leave the top cap loose? Won't this help promote moisture, especially as it cools in the evenings? Is there a vented, yet sealed cap for these things?

Custer,
A recycled compressor tank, or propane tank is a better solution. Just cut a 2" hole in the top and weld a 2" tapered thread female to it, then screw on a fuel tank cap adapter, which you buy at an auto parts store. The fuel tank cap is vented, but maintains a 4PSI pressure differential which reduces evaporation of light fractions, while reducing moisture coming in.

A shed to keep it in, and a containment basin, are all good ideas
Due to the extreme temp differences where you live I would consider some type of shed over your system. It might cost you up front but will save you money in the long run. It also keeps rain/snow and direct sunlight off your setup. I had two totes that had WVO and UMO in them and they eventually cracked up top and allowed water to get in. I now have a few hundred gallons of fire starter rather than fuel. Your mileage may vary.
You could add gasoline to the sludge and leave it for a week, then pump the thin oil that floats to the top. That will make decent fuel. Then you will have the water and other sludge settled to the bottom of the leaky tank, which will be easier to dispose of.
 

EdwardThirlwall

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NSW
"Poly tanks are sensitive to UV, but painting them black is a good idea to reduce UV damage while increasing IR gain. They will get stiff in the winter, and more likely to crack after a few years outside, so you may want to plan on replacing them every few years."
If you're not using these on a regular basis, I think you may want to check out a climate controlled self storage unit. If the OP is ok to collect and then access the poly tanks less frequently, that might be an option to look at. Good luck!
 
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