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the real cost of owning a HMMWV

hplacess

Member
37
7
8
Location
Faciststateof, NJ
hi.

I found this sticky full of practical info and costs for a 'deuce'.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?55552-cost-of-ownership-(the-real-cost-of-a-deuce)

I searched and could not find such a thread for HMMWV.

I am thinking about getting a HMMWV, from auction, and would appreciate any information owners might share (like in the deuce sticky), or links to pertinent threads.

and, if nothing else, would you do it again? how did it work out long term? getting parts, reliability, etc.

many thanks
 
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Bravojmc

New member
512
5
0
Location
Palisade, Colorado
hi.

I found this sticky full of practical info and costs for a 'deuce'.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?55552-cost-of-ownership-(the-real-cost-of-a-deuce)

I searched and could not find such a thread for HMMWV.

I am thinking about getting a HMMWV, from auction, and would appreciate any information owners might share (like in the deuce sticky), or links to pertinent threads.

and, if nothing else, would you do it again? how did it work out long term? getting parts, reliability, etc.

many thanks
As your question , would you do it again?... (YES) I'm on my second...
My first was fine long term. Parts are easy to find for the most part.
Reliability.... depends on the unit you get.... My first had a problem eating
boxes and glow plugs and knock on wood my current has been great...
You need to always check your vehicle for leaks and or issues and stay up on the
maintance to keep it tip top. Their old vehicles... and with that ,you'll have maintance!!!
 
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donquijote

Active member
166
36
28
Location
Louisiana
Love em and restoring more now on the side... It's my daily driver and wouldnt trade it in for anything. Bravojmc is right... your overall cost will go down if you stay on top of maintenance and get in the habit of checking.

Sent from my SM-N915P using Tapatalk
 

infidel got me

Well-known member
1,685
32
48
Location
Newberry, Florida
To me, the cost of maintenance on my Humvee is no more than a 4x4 of the same year. Parts are in the same price range, give or take a few bucks. Agreed with above post-- always looking for leaks/odd smells/noises. If I notice something I address it asap or park it till I can. Once you change the belts/hoses/fluids/ and any wear items ft.end/brakes/steering/tires. You should be able to cruise for a while with only minor stuff to do.
 

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,254
158
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
Alright, my turn... So when I first started in, I had actually read that same thread on the Deuce. I realized that there was a lot more to think about than just the price tag beside the name. The most immediate costs to realize are the auction fees, taxes, and transportation. Luckily, a HMMWV isn't too incredibly hard to move in comparison to many other MVs. Once the auctions came about, I realized that owning a HMMWV was in the realm of possibility for me, so I spent a lot more time reading about them, what people did to get them and build them into their own (and fix what breaks!). Nothing really lined up until I got my new job, then I was able to actually save up some money, finish the last few payments on the motorcycle, and actually look forward and set a budget. I figured that all things said, I could afford $10,000 for a HMMWV without putting myself in dire straits, or waiting for another year to save up a bigger pile of cash.

First and foremost, shipping could potentially be the biggest deal-breaker, so I decided I'd wait for the right HMMWV to show up in-state to minimize that cost. Watching auctions, I was seeing that everything running was going for $9k-11k in-state...not good. Nearby KY auctions had several non-runners that were selling for as low as $4.5k...not bad. I did more research into what was broken on these non-running HMMWVs. Some were robbed of parts and others were just mysteriously dead. Regardless, having priced out the major assemblies for what I could currently find them for, it looked like $6k was about the spending cap for any non-runner. Finally one showed up right in Indianapolis, non-running, with an opening bid of $5k. Missing transmission, transfercase, and driveshafts... Pretty steep, but at the time, I was seeing transmission and transfercase packages selling for $1500, making it feasible. On top of that, the HMMWV was an improved A1, had A2 highback seats, and it clearly had a GEP engine in it, which really sweetened the deal. I decided to get all the finances lined up and put in my bid...and I won uncontested! $5k + taxes and fees came out to $5,885. It was just an in-town haul, so I had the next-door wrecker service drive it 20 miles for $100. So, less than $6,000 made it mine and dropped it in the driveway. Much to my surprise, they didn't mention or take photos of the sealed-in-plastic NP242 sitting in the back, or the drive shafts, or the soft doors that were supposedly missing, or the engine doghouse cover, or the Luverne brush guard. Those were an excellent surprise that can't be relied on...but was nice!

But, honeymoons do come to an end... Turns out, despite all of my reading and research, misinformation is very prevalent and it's very easy to overlook details on a system you're not familiar with. That led me to some poor planning on what parts I should buy. Luckily I only made a few mistakes, but it ultimately meant that my original estimates ended up costing more. As well, I completely overlooked the missing components on the engine. They were all photographed as missing, but not pointed out, so I missed that there was no starter, no PCB/EESS/S3, and the alternator was literally a cracked, disassembled paperweight. About $1,200 later in new parts (did the upgrade to the 200A dual-volt alternator while I was there, or it would have been more like $900 for the job) and a night with my batteries on the charger, the engine fired up without missing a beat and idled with excellence.

Moving on...I still needed to put a transmission in. At the current state, I could have just bought a TH400/3L80, bolted it on, and called it a day. I'd be happily driving my HMMWV around right now; however, I figured there's no time like the present, so the decision was finalized to do the 4L80E conversion right out of the gate. Found a 4L80E from a HMMWV for $400 and shipped it to me for $125. A TCM to control it was found on eBay for about $225...and a shift lever for about the same. New crossmember, linkages, new sensors, relay, circuit breaker, electrical panel, and wiring components are all adding up to about to probably $600. I still have to buy wire, and have my drive shafts modified. It's really getting close to $2,000 for just transmission components, and I still haven't been able to just sit in my HMMWV and feel it drive forward on its own power. ...but on the bright side, I'm right at the cusp of my budget. I've spent a little bit more in that in reality, since I've bought some accessories, a lot of untracked fasteners, and have made about $600 worth of part buying mistakes that I might recoup some day.

What's no mentioned here is the absolutely stupid amount of hours that have been spent on, in, and under this HMMWV. There's definitely been a whole lot of learning and a whole lot of frustrations encountered, but I'm still glad I bought it. I've wanted one since I was a kid and now when I get tired of the day or if I start getting down on myself in a quarter-life crisis, I can just go outside and sit in the driver seat for a minute...and I realize then that there's a lot to be proud of and a lot to look forward to.
 

LouWon

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
406
85
28
Location
Michigan
It all depends on how crazy you want to go about it, you can buy and do some maintenance and have a really fun vehicle to drive.
My recommendations would be:
Research first, if it's been maintain or comes with maintenance records
Find the vehicle that is the most complete for you, meaning, if you want a winch, try to find one with one already installed, same goes for the rear airlift bumper, if the one you are looking at does not have the top or all doors, think twice, because at the end all of the extras that you might want will cost you more.
Look at the tires, oil leaks, anti-freeze, check the heater core, you can easily look at it.
All in all it's a fun vehicle to drive, any excuse that I can think of I take it out, I can guarantee that it will keep you busy.
 

jeffy777

Member
196
4
16
Location
VA
My real cost so far is $10,000 +/- $500(not a full year in yet). I bought mine for 8k and fees and such put it over 9k. Mine was a running HMMVW and everything works.

I got lucky. I studied. And asked my nephew and others for info. He was a 63b. That helped me.

I could have spent much more from there but I like to tinker because I am 50+ and I like to study because I am a nerd. All the fixes and changes (key switch and other little things) have been cheap because I do it.

I imagine it will cost $500-1000 to keep running year over year for the next 5 years or so. And insurance was cheap $400 a year.

I bought the thing because I thought it would divert my attention away from motorcycles that I need to give up because I have some arthritis.

But it has a value it keeps me away from fast women and drinking and that saves a lot of money. ;)
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I'm of the "don't ask, don't tell" school of hobby costs here.

I know how much I have in it and what I hope to do with it in the future and what it's doing for me now.

I like tinkering, fixing things, working with my hands, it's why I chose the career field I'm in.

Hobbies rarely become ways of making money but some people manage to do it.

Not me.
 

hplacess

Member
37
7
8
Location
Faciststateof, NJ
I'm of the "don't ask, don't tell" school of hobby costs here.

I know how much I have in it and what I hope to do with it in the future and what it's doing for me now.

I like tinkering, fixing things, working with my hands, it's why I chose the career field I'm in.

Hobbies rarely become ways of making money but some people manage to do it.

Not me.
can you share a little about your hmmwv acquisition story?
 
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Mario

Active member
317
88
28
Location
Rio Rancho, NM
I got mine for $11,100.
It runs.
Between 60A-->200A upgrade, doors that need replacement, headlights, rear bumper and tire carrier, tires, winch, paperwork, etc. -- I'm pushing $20k.
Start thinking about upgrading seats, dome lights, lightbars, etc.; you see where I'm going with this?
 

riderdan

Member
315
20
18
Location
Central Kansas
Think of it as being similar to any older 4x4. If you can do maintenance and repairs yourself, it's not unreasonable. If you have to find and then pay someone to do it for you, it might be pretty expensive.

I owned a 1931 Model A Ford for four years (which I commuted in--17 miles round trip every day). During the course of ownership, I replaced the radiator, distributor, window regulators, and various parts of the fuel system. Along with a LOT of maintenance. For instance, there's no oil filter so you change the oil every 500 miles. I probably put $500 a year into the car and that's all parts. The labor I did myself--anything that wasn't a one-man job I got friends from the Model A club to help with. If I'd have had to pay someone to do it, it would have been four times that, probably.

I'm expecting my HMMWV to be about the same. Money I saved in buying a "used" vehicle will need to be set aside for maintenance, upgrades, etc. I'm about $13K into it at the moment, and I expect the cost of parts/etc to be between $500 and $1000 a year. I've budgeted for that, so it's all good.
 

NormB

Well-known member
1,221
77
48
Location
Cloverly,MD
I got mine for $11,100.
It runs.
Between 60A-->200A upgrade, doors that need replacement, headlights, rear bumper and tire carrier, tires, winch, paperwork, etc. -- I'm pushing $20k.

Start thinking about upgrading seats, dome lights, lightbars, etc.; you see where I'm going with this?
To address the OP's first question: "I am thinking about getting a HMMWV, from auction, and would appreciate any information owners might share (like in the deuce sticky), or links to pertinent threads.

and, if nothing else, would you do it again? how did it work out long term? getting parts, reliability, etc.

What Mario said.

I paid local market value for a basic HMMWV. I'd researched this for over a year, was on this board for about 4 months officially, here and G503 longer just lurking, seeing what I'd be getting myself into.

My neighbor, whose husband bought some small convertible "Kompressor" Mercedes Benz midlife crisis car knew exactly what mine was about and called it to much mutual laughter.

So, looking at eBay auctions, ads here, ads there, shipping, time involved in the EUC process, SF97 travails and all that, I chose a BASIC 4-seater M1038 with new top/rear cover/bows 85% tires and GOOD, CLEAR ON-ROAD TITLE at local market price.

Mid-teens.

Then I started lists, buying parts. High-back seats, 3-pt seatbelt kit (new all around), Optima batteries, ground lockout switch, generator, padding, tachometer, glow plugs, PCB box, new windshield washer pump/hoses/spray nozzles, miscellaneous doo-dads and stickers and ID plates and time involved in fabricating parts (switch box, tach box, glove box - see my posts over in "what has your HMMWV done to you today".. that's not right, "what have YOU done to your HMMWV today?" but sometimes it feels more like the former than the latter), lots of time none of which I resent or miss.

I work in a place where we have a high-speed LASER printer so I used it over a few days to print out every manual, TB, supplemental bulletins, PS magazine graphics and more. Watching SG1 reruns after I got home from work (8AM to 9PM or so - thank God I no longer have to round on patients before work) with a hole puncher I got all that into folders now occupying space in my office and a stack by the couch for ez reference although I have all of it on my desktop and iPad for rapid review in places the books are inconvenient and vice versa.

I also replaced all the cooling system hoses and will get around to dropping the fuel tank to replace gaskets and fittings (it leaks when full, and nearly full) plugs and hoses and sender unit and I've replaced a lot of the other rubber components (steering wheel shaft boot on inside firewall for example).

Like many have said, "if it's rubber replace, if it's electric, clean".

You'll want a high-quality dielectric grease and something like Deoxit to preserve/protect/ensure good electrical connectivity.

So I'm about $3k into spare parts and I discovered the transfer case was cracked. Badly. Preemptive replacement is underway and that's cost around a grand (T/C plus propeller shafts, U-joint, miscellaneous hardware) but I'll replace the boots on the shifter and emergency brake while I'm under there, grease/service/replace as needed, put in some rivnuts to hold the shifter plate down to the deck, put in some insulation/sound deadener under the tunnel... an opportunity and it's all easier with muffler, driveshafts, fuel tank, transfer case removed.

I've got hoses for the winch, power steering, hydraulic fan clutch to replace but that's down the road, maybe next winter.

I just figured out how to get this thing into my garage so I have a clean, level area I don't have to worry about weather either. Doing all this in the driveway was next to impossible.

Garage I'm building on my farm in TN will have a 10x10 door to get this (and tractor) inside, a nine foot wide door (7' high) in a suburban home just BARELY leaves enough room (couple inches on a side) to maneuver and at fifteen feet long, I'm left with about seven feet of space much of which is already taken up by workbenches and shelves and a Grizzly mill and accumulation of 23 years of stuff since I moved to Maryland. I intend on buying spare tires and a "spare" engine and transmission to tuck away in a corner of the new garage as insurance. And leave room for my other truck and my wife's car.

Remember that joke from Jakov Smirnoff about how great America is that people protect all their stuff by putting it in their garages while their cars stay outside?

Hope that gives you a better idea what you're facing.

Plan accordingly, and good luck.
 
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3jacks

Active member
153
39
28
Location
Near Jackson, MO
I got mine at auction, it was running and driving. Hammer price plus fees, taxes, transportation, full normal maintenance, conversion from 2 door soft top to 4 with x doors, airlift bumper, 'restoration' type thing in interior plus extra goodies I'm at $12,000 all-in right now and do all the work myself. Soon to be painted and exterior goodies I will solidly be in the mid teens for cost. I have had no major mechanical things to replace...

Would i I do it again...absolutely and will do it again.
 
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